Battery Draining
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Battery Draining
I have a 1975 f250 4×4 with a 460 just bought the truck a few weeks ago. It runs and starts like a champ but after finding out that the alternator was having some issues I've replaced the battery, alternator, voltage regulator, ignition switch, and starter but the battery is still draining. It's so bad I've had to replace two batteries because of dead cells in the batterys. If anyone has any advice I will be much appreciated!
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
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I have a 1975 f250 4×4 with a 460 just bought the truck a few weeks ago. It runs and starts like a champ but after finding out that the alternator was having some issues I've replaced the battery, alternator, voltage regulator, ignition switch, and starter but the battery is still draining. It's so bad I've had to replace two batteries because of dead cells in the batterys. If anyone has any advice I will be much appreciated!
What issues was the alternator having that led to you replacing it?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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It was no good, I took it to O'Riley's to have it tested and failed the regular test and rectifier test
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Sounds like a drain - disconnect your ground, then bridge between the ground strap and the negative battery post. If your test light comes on, you have something pulling power continuously draining the battery. Start by pulling fuses one at a time till the test light goes out; when it does start checking everything on that circuit till you find the culprit. Yes, this is a thoroughgoing PITA.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Before I changed the alternator I took pictures of the each wire to make sure i would put them on right, after putting the new alternator on I checked about five times to make sure they where in the right place and they where.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
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From: Taxachusetts
Two things come to mind:
One is to check for an alternator ground....as in the alternator housing with a place for a ground. Ground it to the engine block.
Second is to check the starter solenoid. The contacts inside get fused together at times and promotes a BATT (+) to ground scenario. Remove the negative cable at the battery and watch for a spark. If you get one, smack the solenoid a few times with a plastic screwdriver end. Re-attach the negative cable and watch for a spark. Still got one? Leave the negative cable off overnight and check the battery for spark and charge (volts) the next morning.
If smackin' that bad boy doesn't work and you still get a spark when re-attaching the negative cable, get a new starter solenoid. Make sure it's grounded to the fenderwell solidly.
One is to check for an alternator ground....as in the alternator housing with a place for a ground. Ground it to the engine block.
Second is to check the starter solenoid. The contacts inside get fused together at times and promotes a BATT (+) to ground scenario. Remove the negative cable at the battery and watch for a spark. If you get one, smack the solenoid a few times with a plastic screwdriver end. Re-attach the negative cable and watch for a spark. Still got one? Leave the negative cable off overnight and check the battery for spark and charge (volts) the next morning.
If smackin' that bad boy doesn't work and you still get a spark when re-attaching the negative cable, get a new starter solenoid. Make sure it's grounded to the fenderwell solidly.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Two things come to mind:
One is to check for an alternator ground....as in the alternator housing with a place for a ground. Ground it to the engine block.
Second is to check the starter solenoid. The contacts inside get fused together at times and promotes a BATT (+) to ground scenario. Remove the negative cable at the battery and watch for a spark. If you get one, smack the solenoid a few times with a plastic screwdriver end. Re-attach the negative cable and watch for a spark. Still got one? Leave the negative cable off overnight and check the battery for spark and charge (volts) the next morning.
If smackin' that bad boy doesn't work and you still get a spark when re-attaching the negative cable, get a new starter solenoid. Make sure it's grounded to the fenderwell solidly.
One is to check for an alternator ground....as in the alternator housing with a place for a ground. Ground it to the engine block.
Second is to check the starter solenoid. The contacts inside get fused together at times and promotes a BATT (+) to ground scenario. Remove the negative cable at the battery and watch for a spark. If you get one, smack the solenoid a few times with a plastic screwdriver end. Re-attach the negative cable and watch for a spark. Still got one? Leave the negative cable off overnight and check the battery for spark and charge (volts) the next morning.
If smackin' that bad boy doesn't work and you still get a spark when re-attaching the negative cable, get a new starter solenoid. Make sure it's grounded to the fenderwell solidly.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
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From: W (BY GOD) V
Sounds like a drain - disconnect your ground, then bridge between the ground strap and the negative battery post. If your test light comes on, you have something pulling power continuously draining the battery. Start by pulling fuses one at a time till the test light goes out; when it does start checking everything on that circuit till you find the culprit.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,565
Likes: 1,157
From: San Jose, CA
Hey Casey. Since you just bought the truck recently, and it was not charging from the get-go, it's also possible that it was wired incorrectly to begin with. So while you took pics to make sure you put it back the way it was, maybe it's still not right.
How fast is it draining the battery? If it's within a few hours, it's your alternator (or possibly the regulator) either with diodes going bad, or more likely the exciting/energizing wire could be hot and keeping the alternator active. Either of these would drain all but the best batteries pretty quickly.
Any chance you can post up some pics of how it's wired?
And can you verify wire colors and where they go?
Do you have an ammeter, or just a charge light in the dash? Ford had two separate wiring schemes at the regulator, depending on whether you had gauges or lights. This is a big stumbling area even with professionals.
Do the tests already mentioned, but it wouldn't hurt to let us look at what you have.
Paul
How fast is it draining the battery? If it's within a few hours, it's your alternator (or possibly the regulator) either with diodes going bad, or more likely the exciting/energizing wire could be hot and keeping the alternator active. Either of these would drain all but the best batteries pretty quickly.
Any chance you can post up some pics of how it's wired?
And can you verify wire colors and where they go?
Do you have an ammeter, or just a charge light in the dash? Ford had two separate wiring schemes at the regulator, depending on whether you had gauges or lights. This is a big stumbling area even with professionals.
Do the tests already mentioned, but it wouldn't hurt to let us look at what you have.
Paul
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Hey Casey. Since you just bought the truck recently, and it was not charging from the get-go, it's also possible that it was wired incorrectly to begin with. So while you took pics to make sure you put it back the way it was, maybe it's still not right.
How fast is it draining the battery? If it's within a few hours, it's your alternator (or possibly the regulator) either with diodes going bad, or more likely the exciting/energizing wire could be hot and keeping the alternator active. Either of these would drain all but the best batteries pretty quickly.
Any chance you can post up some pics of how it's wired?
And can you verify wire colors and where they go?
Do you have an ammeter, or just a charge light in the dash? Ford had two separate wiring schemes at the regulator, depending on whether you had gauges or lights. This is a big stumbling area even with professionals.
Do the tests already mentioned, but it wouldn't hurt to let us look at what you have.
Paul
How fast is it draining the battery? If it's within a few hours, it's your alternator (or possibly the regulator) either with diodes going bad, or more likely the exciting/energizing wire could be hot and keeping the alternator active. Either of these would drain all but the best batteries pretty quickly.
Any chance you can post up some pics of how it's wired?
And can you verify wire colors and where they go?
Do you have an ammeter, or just a charge light in the dash? Ford had two separate wiring schemes at the regulator, depending on whether you had gauges or lights. This is a big stumbling area even with professionals.
Do the tests already mentioned, but it wouldn't hurt to let us look at what you have.
Paul
I'll send some pictures later today, the battery will drain within a few hours. If I have the truck started it will drain within a few minutes.
I have tried the test yesterday and the light did not turn on but I've been working on my break lights and turn lights because they are not working (thinking that would be the drain)?
Like I said I'll get some pictures today but there is this really ghetto alligator clip thing going on under my dash that the previous owner has put on!(don't blame me)thank you for your response Paul.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
what are the clipped wires attached to? I'd sure try doing that drain test and disconnect those two clips and see if the drain disappears. Re. your earlier... if your alternator is heating up when the engine is off, something is (as we say in German) upge****t.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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One of them is hooked to a wire that goes to my break but my break lights don't work when I press on the break.