E4od Swap
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
I'd use a transmission jack with the transmission properly secured to it; then pry between the flex plate, and torque converter with a 3 foot pry bar. Place a 2x4 between the valve covers, and the firewall to keep the motor from rocking back. You'll want to support the motor anyways from shifting with the transmission removed. If you don't have a transmission jack use pallets to support the transmission; you want it to move aft not fall.
You removed the cross member too, right?
You removed the cross member too, right?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 178
Likes: 1
From: Fort Wayne, IN
I would not recommend that, sounds like disaster waiting to happen. Especially if you are anywhere near that thing when it let's loose, your gonna find yourself between pinch points with a high rpm death wheel in your hand. Anyways, cutting wheels don't do too good on aluminum.
Take a close look at everything, something is holding you up, and it may be just rust and the bell housing is stuck to the block or the studs. Are you sure all of the bolts are out and the heads of the bolts? If so, support the motor, and take a jack to the tail end of the trans and work it up and down. Be careful and expect it to break loose at any time. Soak that thing in penetrating fluid and just keep working it. Stay safe man.
Take a close look at everything, something is holding you up, and it may be just rust and the bell housing is stuck to the block or the studs. Are you sure all of the bolts are out and the heads of the bolts? If so, support the motor, and take a jack to the tail end of the trans and work it up and down. Be careful and expect it to break loose at any time. Soak that thing in penetrating fluid and just keep working it. Stay safe man.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,340
Likes: 293
From: Laramie, WY
I agree with Mark. The leverage by working the rear of the trans should help. The dowels are a tight fit. Broken bolts means plenty of corrosion. Might really have to reef on it. If there's no fuel spilled, and you can safely do this, a map gas torch into the holes of the bell housing bolts could help.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 17
From: Central Indiana
Just my thoughts and experiences
Did you remove the starter? The block plate is held by the starter that is bolted to the transmission. That would prevent removal, since it's behind the flexplate. Don't ask how I know.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
So in a process of cutting and chipping away chunks of the bell housing I finally got the transmission out. Now it appears that tith the transmission out I may have access to the engine oil pan. Does anyone know if I'd be able to replace the engine oil pan without lifting the engine, but with the transmission out?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Not likely, the oil pump and pickup tube extend to the bottom of the pan so the pan has to drop down enough for you to reach in and disconnect those items.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
I finally swapped the transmission, and it fixed nothing
. The same issue persists, does this mean it is definetely the wiring to the solenoid pack? If so would this be correct? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2776/all
. The same issue persists, does this mean it is definetely the wiring to the solenoid pack? If so would this be correct? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2776/all
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: 94' F-250 460 4x4 e4od
KOER codes include 172, 538, 536, 632, and 50