Odometer worm gear REPAIR Thread
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
My truck prior to this one was a '97 F-150. It had a similar cluster and the exact same steering wheel (with CC buttons). It did not have a CC light. The only way you knew it worked is if the truck did not slow down when you let off the gas pedal. Yours may be a holdover from that since it's an E99 and the start of the Super Duty. Just my .02
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
Honestly, it was worth every penny. I put new injectors (140cc) and the new PCM comes from a year of 140 cc injectors. It idles better, shifting is much better but not perfect.
New User
Joined: Apr 2019
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anybody know part numbers for motor and worm gear?
Since I couldn't find any information on changing the worm gear so I decided to give it a shot. So this is a tedious, royal PITA! I pulled the dash apart and got the instrument gauge display out. You will need a small socket set, 7/32, flat screwdriver, small pick and several boxes of patience!
DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR COVER FROM The DASH DISPLAY EXCEPT TO CLEAN
-This protects the gauges. See next note:
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE ANY GAUGE DIAL INDICATORS
-I did and screwed up my speedometer and tach...both are off a bit now. I will fix this later when I replace the odometer motor.
ALL ACCESS IS FROM BEHIND THE GAUGE CLUSTER
REPLACE THE MOTOR AND THE WORM GEAR AT THE SAME TIME-YOU DON'T WANT TO DO THIS A SECOND TIME!!!!
The following refers to the BACK OF THE CLUSTER. Gauges are facing down.
There's a ton of soldering and electrical connections...be gentle. You'll see in the video the connection at the TOP of the cluster needs to be disconnected. The white portion on both sides, slides down and releases the plastic piece that has ALL YOUR DASH ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. Take your time when you remove it and especially when re-installing it.
>>>Replacement of JUST THE WORM GEAR DID NOT FIX IT!!! I drove 1/10th of a mile per the trip odometer and it quit working.
Next step will be to replace the motor and attempt to adjust the speedometer and tach.
More to come...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjtGDtTF0n0
DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR COVER FROM The DASH DISPLAY EXCEPT TO CLEAN
-This protects the gauges. See next note:
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE ANY GAUGE DIAL INDICATORS
-I did and screwed up my speedometer and tach...both are off a bit now. I will fix this later when I replace the odometer motor.
ALL ACCESS IS FROM BEHIND THE GAUGE CLUSTER
REPLACE THE MOTOR AND THE WORM GEAR AT THE SAME TIME-YOU DON'T WANT TO DO THIS A SECOND TIME!!!!
The following refers to the BACK OF THE CLUSTER. Gauges are facing down.
There's a ton of soldering and electrical connections...be gentle. You'll see in the video the connection at the TOP of the cluster needs to be disconnected. The white portion on both sides, slides down and releases the plastic piece that has ALL YOUR DASH ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. Take your time when you remove it and especially when re-installing it.
>>>Replacement of JUST THE WORM GEAR DID NOT FIX IT!!! I drove 1/10th of a mile per the trip odometer and it quit working.
Next step will be to replace the motor and attempt to adjust the speedometer and tach.
More to come...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjtGDtTF0n0
Anybody know part numbers for motor and worm gear? where to buy?
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
.
I thought i posted a link a link in this thread. Honestly, the worm gear was IIRC $35ish, without completely taking the cluster apart there’s no way to get it back into the unit that’s why ended up just buying a new cluster off of eBay .
I thought i posted a link a link in this thread. Honestly, the worm gear was IIRC $35ish, without completely taking the cluster apart there’s no way to get it back into the unit that’s why ended up just buying a new cluster off of eBay .
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