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ok guys, any help will be appreciated. I have a 2006 F-350. I got a code p2623 ipr circuit open. I ordered a new one and currently waiting on it. I pulled the old one and the screen has been replaced already. How often do these valves go bad? Is there anything else I should check?
They fail, it does happen. One cause is being dirty when the HPO reservoir is opened or using rags that leave lint behind during a repair. Or the HPOP reservoir mesh screen tearing and something big getting through. Or holding it closed too long when air testing through the ICP port. I wouldn't call it common but it happens enough that a replacement isn't a total WAG and likely not wasted money.
ICP sensor connector is dry also?
Motorcraft/Racor oil filter and OEM cap? Mixing and matching filter brands is a bad deal.
ICP sensor was clean and dry, I did get a code for both about a week ago. I unplugged icp a let set for a bit, deleted trouble codes and it finally started, I let it idle for a bit and it shut off after a few minutes giving me the p2623 code. Filters are motorcraft, oil is also motorcraft.
I was getting the code for ipr circuit before, it wouldn't start. I replaced the ipr valve today and it still won't start and it's still giving me the same code. I inspected the wiring the best I could without cutting the harness open. Any ideas?
I was getting the code for ipr circuit before, it wouldn't start. I replaced the ipr valve today and it still won't start and it's still giving me the same code. I inspected the wiring the best I could without cutting the harness open. Any ideas?
This trouble code isn't particularly complicated to diagnose, since there are only two wires involved. The red wire, should have 12 volts with the key in the RUN position. The yellow with red striped wire shouldn't have any voltage, nor any continuity to ground (any metal part of the engine or body), nor continuity to the red wire. The IPR valve should have a reading between 3 to 15 ohms between the two pins on the valve itself. Outside of the range listed above, it should be replaced. Lastly, remove the middle connector of the PCM (between driver side battery and fender). Check for continuity between the second pin of the PCM middle connector and the second pin of the IPR valve connector (yellow with red striped wire). I'm pretty sure I have you covered with all mentioned above.
Thanks for the advice. I checked the 2 wires and all was good. Put back together and it fired up and ran for 30 minutes. I shut it down, going to let the batteries charge up. I'm gonna go ahead and buy a new pigtail and put it on.