Good HVLP Setup??
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
Good HVLP Setup??
I just snagged a lightly used Fuji Mini-Mite 3 system this weekend for only $275. I'm going to rebuild the wear parts in the gun because it was not cleaned to my satisfaction when it was set on the shelf 3-5 years ago. I actually bought the setup for primarily wood finishing projects, but from what I've read, it sounds like it can be a decent hobbyist level setup for minor automotive painting as well.
Would you more experienced painters agree that this Fuji MM3 is a good setup for small stuff?
The project I have in mind for automotive is respraying the rear spoiler on the back of my wife's RX450h, which is plastic and has a really rough texture on it in comparison to the rest of the otherwise perfectly smooth and clean body paint. I've already wet sanded and polished it, but it's still so rough that I need to take it the rest of the way down and rebuild the coating completely from primer to base to clear coat.
Would you more experienced painters agree that this Fuji MM3 is a good setup for small stuff?
The project I have in mind for automotive is respraying the rear spoiler on the back of my wife's RX450h, which is plastic and has a really rough texture on it in comparison to the rest of the otherwise perfectly smooth and clean body paint. I've already wet sanded and polished it, but it's still so rough that I need to take it the rest of the way down and rebuild the coating completely from primer to base to clear coat.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
Thanks for the bump. I've already joined an automotive painting forum and have been having some really good dialogue there with some experienced painters. They have confirmed that my Fuji MM3 setup will serve me well.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Good to hear you got some help on this.
I few years ago I "up graded" from the old school Binks #7 gun
to a HVLP guns.
I say guns because I bought thru Eastwood the DeVilbiss starting line spray gun kit.
It has 1 large head primer gun, 1 large head paint gun and 1 small head (touch up they call it) gun.
I also bought the DeVilbiss "D cup" paint cup & liners for qt cups and have a qt cup on the small head gun.
It takes a little time to get use to the HVLP guns over the old Binks but so far I like how it sprays and there is no way I could have painted the inside of my cab with the old school gun as they don't work upside down on the roof.
I will also say a lot of how the paint goes down is skill and not so much the guns. I have been painting cars for a long time mostly using old school guns some only $30 guns and have done a great job with them too.
Dave ----
I few years ago I "up graded" from the old school Binks #7 gun
to a HVLP guns.
I say guns because I bought thru Eastwood the DeVilbiss starting line spray gun kit.
It has 1 large head primer gun, 1 large head paint gun and 1 small head (touch up they call it) gun.
I also bought the DeVilbiss "D cup" paint cup & liners for qt cups and have a qt cup on the small head gun.
It takes a little time to get use to the HVLP guns over the old Binks but so far I like how it sprays and there is no way I could have painted the inside of my cab with the old school gun as they don't work upside down on the roof.
I will also say a lot of how the paint goes down is skill and not so much the guns. I have been painting cars for a long time mostly using old school guns some only $30 guns and have done a great job with them too.
Dave ----
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From: North of Greenville
Thanks, Dave.
I've been prepping myself for this work on my cabinet doors and drawer fronts for the past couple weekends. This weekend, I got my drying racks built for the 40+ doors and 20+ drawer fronts, and I built them in a "knock-down" design so I can take them apart and hang them on the wall once I'm done.
Tonight and tomorrow night will be focused on the PVC pipe "temporary" spray booth which will also be a knock-down design and the framed turntable for spraying the piece sin the booth. If I can, I'll also be tearing down the bottom feed Fuji XCP gun and replacing all the seals and wear parts and making sure it's spotless inside all the moving parts areas... the PO didn't clean it thoroughly enough for my taste before he set it aside, and he was using the heavy duty stuff used to refinish tubs and sinks. I've got some of it cleaned out, but want it pristine before I start with the high solids milk paint.
I'm really excited to grow into this so I can get that top rear spoiler off my wife's RXh and get it back into new condition again.
I've been prepping myself for this work on my cabinet doors and drawer fronts for the past couple weekends. This weekend, I got my drying racks built for the 40+ doors and 20+ drawer fronts, and I built them in a "knock-down" design so I can take them apart and hang them on the wall once I'm done.
Tonight and tomorrow night will be focused on the PVC pipe "temporary" spray booth which will also be a knock-down design and the framed turntable for spraying the piece sin the booth. If I can, I'll also be tearing down the bottom feed Fuji XCP gun and replacing all the seals and wear parts and making sure it's spotless inside all the moving parts areas... the PO didn't clean it thoroughly enough for my taste before he set it aside, and he was using the heavy duty stuff used to refinish tubs and sinks. I've got some of it cleaned out, but want it pristine before I start with the high solids milk paint.
I'm really excited to grow into this so I can get that top rear spoiler off my wife's RXh and get it back into new condition again.
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