Yes
If it still starts then we know it is some where from that plug to inside.


If it does not than I would look closer from that plug back to where the NSS plugs in. You may need to remove tape to check wires.


All of this is to narrow down where to look for the issue with out needing to remove everything.
Dave ----

 

now to figure out what that plug is called so i can find a replacement for it.

 

Why need a new one?
The lock tab always breaks off. Once you know you don't need to take it apart use a wire tie to hold it together and you may not even need to use it.


Unless that is where the issue is?
Dave ----

 

lol no silly. the wires are all bare and some are broken. a few are touching eachother. its a mess. i need a new harness. or maybe i can find one in a junk yard that is in way better shape.

 

Well the next best thing if you can "cut" the plugs off and have good wire is put weather pack plugs on them. This way if you ever have to remove the rear harness from the front and can just unplug them.

Summit Racing sells a weather pack kit and not hear to install as I used them when I installed custom gauges in a car I am rebuilding but wanted to use part of the stock harness to feed the new gauges.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...r%20pack%20kit
https://www.summitracing.com/search?...r%20tite%20kit

If I ever want to go back to the stock gauges I just need to put the other half of the plug on the stock gauge side to match the harness side and plug it in.

Do you think that is where the issues is?
Dave ----

 

oh i am mostly sure. i unplugged it and the truck will not start. Even if it isnt the total issue the wires need redone. That is a fire hazard waiting to happen. And i can not sell someone the truck if it looks like that.

 

Depends on how much you are asking and the shape of the rest of the truck.
A $500 truck they BETTER know it is going to need work.
A $1500 may need a little work.
A $10k truck better be show room the way I see it.


I paid $800 for mine knowing it needed work and $400 for the rolled over parts truck less motor, doors, tail gate and a few things off the dash.
Add new body panels and other new parts all to make 1 good truck!
Dave ----

 

If you did not want to go with the Weather-Tite connectors you could get a few 4 pin trailer M/F connectors and splice them on the wires.
I don't remember how many wires there are but if you use 2 sets turn one set around so you cent plug it in wrong.
If you need to use 3 you are on your own, maybe colored wire ties around the body of the plugs?
Dave ----

 

Here you go
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/48195.html
Better yet!
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Spectro/9653P.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/37995.html
Dave ----

 

Well ,evil your on the right path to fixing this problem.I am sure prior to your self ,owning the truck , there was a reason they removed the back up lights .Are you actually saying, you press the brake and the truck starts (Wild ).You also mentioned wires touching ,(not good )All this needs to be cleaned up .(Dave good trouble shooting ). Hearing this reminded myself of problems I had in the past and other friends problems .Actually it was gound problems and switch problems and wires shorting when turning.Itook out my Haynes book but got carried away on other things .TR

 

Evil , worried about Fire , undo your battery or better yet -install a switch knife blade in line with the positive terminal TR

 

Black, when he says "starting" I am thinking it turns over or cranks just like if you turned the key but would (should) not start with out the key turned to run.


And that is were the issue came in, if you left the wire connected to the S on the solenoid every time you hit the brakes or so he found out left turn sig the starter would start.


The wires bare & touching is the cause of all this and if I under stand it right it is at the plug that joins the trucks main harness to the rear harness. Because this rear harness has both the brake/turn light wires and the NSS to the starter wires they are the ones touching.
Unless they went to ground I don't see a fire and even then maybe a blown fuse.


Now that he found the issue he then needs to figure how he will fix it. I listed some plugs he could wire in so if he ever needs to take it apart he could.
Dave ----

 

Yes , unfortunately if some one hasn't hacked up the wiring in our older trucks we have field mice, birds and even cats that can help. Other critters too. The wiring gets brittle(heat) and age plays a factor. Over my years I have seen, heard and had problems with mainly the newer vehicles (computer controlled).My 92 bronco rpm gauge would get too 1600-1800 and surge (every time).Many months of trouble shooting it was actually the gauge it self . (Bone yard gauged solved this)(Would cause the engine to surge also.) Weird .My 85 (carbed) was killing the battery and had a emmisons module up under the dash- emmisions light that came on every 60000 miles and the dealer charges you two arms and a leg to change this. I solved this after the first dealer trip by installing my own relay. This module was actually a circuit board and if neglected would keep the choke onto the battery constantly. The work I did to my 1985 was to make a simple carbed truck doing away with the computer forever .(Being 4 speed and a carb it was easy.) 1976 ford pinto turn the corner fuse blows -Turned out to be a wire under dash touching a sharp screw. Just a few problems, and in my line of electrical work the last 40 yrs- pushing the brakes to engage starter is new - but Nothing surprises me .TR

 

Yes I have had rats in this car but how bout what is behind the seat? It is mom and 3 little one back there.



I think in his case it is old brittle wires at that plug that are shorting out.
And yes brake pedal to crank motor over is a first for me too.
Dave ----

 

yes i will probably just grab a few wiring harnesses from a local store and wire it up. needs to be fixed before i do anymore troubleshooting. But yes there seems to be a short. something is giving the S wire voltage when the brake lights or turn signals are on. the harness i found is a 12 pin plug that was on the drivers side near the brake booster. it was one of many connectors over there. but it was the only one with broken/bare wires.