My fuel gauge was playing up today. I know I have half a tank because I've done about 300mi since last fill up, but when I start p it showed full - I thought wow someone came in the night and filled me up - that's nice! Maybe the diesel fairy?

Got driving down the road and hear a beep, empty light came on and the needle was dead low (below empty). I pulled over and shut her down and started up again - this time it showed 3/4 of a tank. I get moving again and it does the same thing so I just kept going as I needed to get to work.

I started up after work this afternoon and it was back to normal where I expected it and it didn't play up again.

This happened once before but didn't come back and thought it was just an anomaly. Anyone else have this issue or know what the root cause is?

 

I cut your post from the thread it was in because it would have been lost in that general thread you posted in, plus it's always a good idea to start your own thread when you have a problem that needs addressing.

The diesel gurus here should be able to get you squared away.

Stewart

 

You can do a few things to fix that.
Myself I like just removing the in tank sender and cleaning the
resistor pad and wiper in the sender. You can also replace the sender
if you can't clean it but don't be shocked by the price. Some say you
can use Techron but I am not in that camp.

 

@Stewart_H thanks for getting me in the right place!

I'll look into cleaning once I figure out how the system works. It's not the worst problem I have right now - need to get my suspension sorted out first, so I don't drive off a cliff.

 

If your bed bolts will come out then it's easy to go from the top. If they are
like most they won't move and then it less work to drop the tank. Get it as
close to empty as you can so there is less weight to deal with. There is
nothing like fluid sloshing around to make a headache out of a project.

I have a photo of a level sensor that is just like what you will find in the tank.
BTW there is not any pump in the tank. Just the sender ,float and the suction
foot that has 2 valves.

This is the tool to remove and install the tank ring.



Here is the sensor. This was from a gas engine but they look the same.



Use rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip to gently wipe the wiper end and the resistor.

This is what the sender will look like when you remove it. It's a good idea to replace that green seal
and it's only about $18. That will help to keep the tank from weeping when filled up. You can also
do the Harpoon mod while you have the tank open. Lets you fill it higher and faster.




Here is a good shot of the 2 valves. The one is the return to tank line and that helps the pump
from pulling air in as the fuel gets low. The other is a suction relief valve so that if the screen
on the foot gets plugged with junk in the tank you can still get fuel to the pump. The down side
is if your low on fuel it will pull air in.



Almost forgot the screen on the foot. If there is any question when your going into the tank you can always
replace the foot assembly that way you know that the parts have not gotten hard from age.
Also There is a torque value for the tank ring if your are using the tool. If not most mark the ring
and the tank and count the turns to remove it so that they get it back on at nearly the save torque.

I found this info for you. 60Ft/Lb if you have the tank ring tool
Also there is some good info in this link. >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...yone-know.html

 

Can't rep you for it Sean, but that's a very good comprehensive post.

(I'll just note if you don't have the tool you can impact rap the nut from the side with one of the commercial sized paint sticks or small board hitting it gingerly with a hammer. And installing the nut is easier if it's pre warmed to expand. I ain't got no fancy tool but have opened tanks a number of times.)

 

Another possible problem is the gauge itself. My sons fuel gauge has been acting up for over a year, reading empty when full, or wrong at partial full. Has been delaying pulling the sender. Then recently the gauge cluster starting acting up and working intermittently. Sent the gauge cluster in for repair and now the fuel gauge is working again.

 

@Yahiko that's an awesome reply - thank you!!

I'm not sure I can lift the Excursion the same way as a truck bed, so I'll probably let the tank get close to empty, drain it from the pump using the fuel shutoff switch trick and drop the tank. At least that way I can clean the tank and purge any water out of the bottom while I'm at it.

 

Is the Ex tank also the plastic type or the metal one?
If metal you might also want to give it a good cleaning
and check for any declamation of the coating. If you do
find declamation they are products for dealing with that.

Anthony aka run6.0run over at Super Duty Service in Grain Valley, Mo
has something that he does with the metal tanks.

 

Every one I saw was plastic.

 

I have not seen one so I was not sure.
So it must be the chassis cab that only has
the metal tank.

 

Yep. ....10

 

Wow nice reply Yahiko! I must have rep-ed you for something since it won't let me do it again. Like TooManyToys I've used a wide chisel and hammer to get spin the rings off but that tool looks pretty nice.

 

I would bet with a sheet of metal and a plasma torch to cut
it out. You could then heat it up with a oxygen-acetylene torch
using a rosebud nozzle bend it in a vice. Then you would have
your own on the cheap. I think I picked that one up for under
$30 on Ebay with the shipping.

This one is not in the US. The Netherlands is a bit far to go for this.
The part number you want is
OTC 310-069

 

I recently dropped the tank on my ex. Here are a few pointers:
1) Go slow. It's a big bulky tank with fuel lines you cannot disconnect until dropped 4 inches.
2) Use two tie straps along with a floor jack to raise/lower.
3) a C-clamp works instead of the specialty tool to remove O-ring
4) it's a plastic tank so no peeling
​​​​​​​5) use air pressure to blow out fuel lines... your pick up screen has likely disentigrated and tiny pieces are in the fuel line.