Oil cooler question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 180
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Oil cooler question
I purchased an oil cooler rebuild kit more than a year ago. My thought was I would change the oil and flush the coolant system at the same time. I've never flushed the system since I purchased the truck several years ago.
So I was reading up in the topic, which caused more questions than what I can't find answers to.
1. Will flushing the coolant system cause the oil cooler to clog?
2. How do you know the condition of the cooler when it's unassembled? What should I look for?
3. Is a press needed to put cooler back together? Is the press needed due to the difficulty of getting the ends to seat because they are new?
4. I've read something about a upgraded check valve on the filter side of the oil cooler. Is this something I should look into?
5. How do you know your cooler is working properly? I assume high engine temps could contribute or is that more related to the radiator ? Im guessing I would need to see the oil temp reading?
So I was reading up in the topic, which caused more questions than what I can't find answers to.
1. Will flushing the coolant system cause the oil cooler to clog?
2. How do you know the condition of the cooler when it's unassembled? What should I look for?
3. Is a press needed to put cooler back together? Is the press needed due to the difficulty of getting the ends to seat because they are new?
4. I've read something about a upgraded check valve on the filter side of the oil cooler. Is this something I should look into?
5. How do you know your cooler is working properly? I assume high engine temps could contribute or is that more related to the radiator ? Im guessing I would need to see the oil temp reading?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,098
Likes: 1,504
From: western SD
My take on your questions,
1 No
2 Close inspection after it is removed. If fluids are not mixing now, chances are the internal parts are good. I hold the cooler tube up to a light, after the end caps are removed, and look threw the tubes to see if any are clogged. If I find one that is, I take a large wire, simular to a welding rod, and run it carefully down the tube to remove the clog.
3 A press is not needed to reassemble the cooler. The last two I rebuilt I lubed the O-rings with Vasoline really well, and maybe even added a thin coat to the inside of the end caps. I then stood the cooler on its end, and used my body weight to "walk" the cap into place. You will be able to tell when the cap is seated.
4 The older 7.3s had the check valve staked in place, while the newer ones it is held in with a snap ring, so I don't think they are upgradeable without replacing the whole filter adapter end.
5 You are correct on the oil temp gauge.
1 No
2 Close inspection after it is removed. If fluids are not mixing now, chances are the internal parts are good. I hold the cooler tube up to a light, after the end caps are removed, and look threw the tubes to see if any are clogged. If I find one that is, I take a large wire, simular to a welding rod, and run it carefully down the tube to remove the clog.
3 A press is not needed to reassemble the cooler. The last two I rebuilt I lubed the O-rings with Vasoline really well, and maybe even added a thin coat to the inside of the end caps. I then stood the cooler on its end, and used my body weight to "walk" the cap into place. You will be able to tell when the cap is seated.
4 The older 7.3s had the check valve staked in place, while the newer ones it is held in with a snap ring, so I don't think they are upgradeable without replacing the whole filter adapter end.
5 You are correct on the oil temp gauge.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 2
Thanks for the quick reply. Super clear now. In some post I had read, it discussed fins that couldn't come clean due to the sand and antifreeze buildup, but assume that is not how ours are made.
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