Oil cooler question
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 2
Oil cooler question
I purchased an oil cooler rebuild kit more than a year ago. My thought was I would change the oil and flush the coolant system at the same time. I've never flushed the system since I purchased the truck several years ago.
So I was reading up in the topic, which caused more questions than what I can't find answers to.
1. Will flushing the coolant system cause the oil cooler to clog?
2. How do you know the condition of the cooler when it's unassembled? What should I look for?
3. Is a press needed to put cooler back together? Is the press needed due to the difficulty of getting the ends to seat because they are new?
4. I've read something about a upgraded check valve on the filter side of the oil cooler. Is this something I should look into?
5. How do you know your cooler is working properly? I assume high engine temps could contribute or is that more related to the radiator ? Im guessing I would need to see the oil temp reading?
So I was reading up in the topic, which caused more questions than what I can't find answers to.
1. Will flushing the coolant system cause the oil cooler to clog?
2. How do you know the condition of the cooler when it's unassembled? What should I look for?
3. Is a press needed to put cooler back together? Is the press needed due to the difficulty of getting the ends to seat because they are new?
4. I've read something about a upgraded check valve on the filter side of the oil cooler. Is this something I should look into?
5. How do you know your cooler is working properly? I assume high engine temps could contribute or is that more related to the radiator ? Im guessing I would need to see the oil temp reading?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,111
Likes: 1,549
From: western SD
My take on your questions,
1 No
2 Close inspection after it is removed. If fluids are not mixing now, chances are the internal parts are good. I hold the cooler tube up to a light, after the end caps are removed, and look threw the tubes to see if any are clogged. If I find one that is, I take a large wire, simular to a welding rod, and run it carefully down the tube to remove the clog.
3 A press is not needed to reassemble the cooler. The last two I rebuilt I lubed the O-rings with Vasoline really well, and maybe even added a thin coat to the inside of the end caps. I then stood the cooler on its end, and used my body weight to "walk" the cap into place. You will be able to tell when the cap is seated.
4 The older 7.3s had the check valve staked in place, while the newer ones it is held in with a snap ring, so I don't think they are upgradeable without replacing the whole filter adapter end.
5 You are correct on the oil temp gauge.
1 No
2 Close inspection after it is removed. If fluids are not mixing now, chances are the internal parts are good. I hold the cooler tube up to a light, after the end caps are removed, and look threw the tubes to see if any are clogged. If I find one that is, I take a large wire, simular to a welding rod, and run it carefully down the tube to remove the clog.
3 A press is not needed to reassemble the cooler. The last two I rebuilt I lubed the O-rings with Vasoline really well, and maybe even added a thin coat to the inside of the end caps. I then stood the cooler on its end, and used my body weight to "walk" the cap into place. You will be able to tell when the cap is seated.
4 The older 7.3s had the check valve staked in place, while the newer ones it is held in with a snap ring, so I don't think they are upgradeable without replacing the whole filter adapter end.
5 You are correct on the oil temp gauge.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 2
Thanks for the quick reply. Super clear now. In some post I had read, it discussed fins that couldn't come clean due to the sand and antifreeze buildup, but assume that is not how ours are made.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
