my engine (460) was built and initially run for a half hour or so using conventional dinosaur oil... after the run in it was stored on a stand dry until dropping in the frame...

I'm bout ready to fill all the fluids and fire it off again... I'm thinking of going with synthetic. I plan on pulling dist and running the oil pump to get it up to pressure and spread a little oil around inside

anyone see any problems with doing that ??? suggestions and comments welcome..

john

 

My opinion is hydro cams need Zinc. If it has been sitting a while it would probably be a good idea to run the pump, remember it runs in reverse.

 

Well I hope the damage hasn't already Been done. Since the 460 is flat tapped engine you need a good dose of zinc (zddp) in the oil. And new oils do not have enough. You can buy the additive and add it for a couple of oil changes. Now all this being said. My machinist who is about as **** as they come for everything being perfect said he has not had any flat tapped cam failures with Mobile 1. And no I don't work for or sell mobile products. When I built my 460 several years ago I ran 15w-40 diesel oil for about 5000 miles. Which at the time contained plenty of zinc. It doesn't now.

 

Ok, FYI, there has not been "Dino" oil for about 20 years......all oils are considered synthetic. While I am not promoting this company nor their products, they have an excellent, detailed description as to how & why all oils today are considered “Synthetic” Synthetic Motor Oil and was confirmed through legal proceedings http://www.scribd.com/doc/217558103/...s-Day-in-Court. Mfgs such as castrol, are actually using a oil base that is not by previous industry standards to be even considered a "synthetic", was sued (By Exxon/Mobile IIRR) and they won in court because they were able to demonstrate with additives they were essentially delivering a syn product. When looking at all the refineries in the US (2014), the only one really capable of supporting 100% synthetic oil manufacturing is Chevron/Phillips refinery in Texas…and it is not promoted as a synthetic oil.

To reduce cat converter contamination, the ZDDP in the oils was reduced from around 2000 ppm to about 700 ppm (within the last 18 months if you include diesels), which the engineers advise this is plenty for any engine......but this reduction has paralleled with the increase of flat tappt cam failures, valve tick, etc. The one thing that the aftermarket cam mfgs & machinists agree upon is engines need about 1400 ppm of ZDDP, the newer engines (modulars) with cats, about 1000 ppm. ) After discussing this in detail with Ron Eskenderian (yes, Isky Racing Cams), and I add 1/3 of a bottle to my mod motors as well and a full bottle to my old school (no cat) engines.

As far as startup goes, well, either way is fine....... meaning if you want to prime the pump, ok, but if you refill replace the oil filling from the top and the filter is primed as well, there is no issue with spinning the engine over (no start) for 15-30 intervals until you either see oil pressure or the oil light goes out. Now before anybody has a coronary, you have to remember, the old flatheads and engines up through the 60's were started this way (probably over 100 engines with my family's history) and with the new gen Ford, GM & Chrysler engines, unless you have a $1k remote pump like a dealer has, you can't prime the engine by spinning the oil pump shaft...cause they don't have one....per the "big 3, you just pre-lube the pump (which you already have done), pre-fill the filter (as best as one can), and spin the engine over until you have pressure. remember, there is no pressure on the bearings until the engine fires.......the residual zinc (and other products that are in the oil for initial startup) are still coating the bearings, etc....... so IMHO, you are fine either way you choose to go.

 

Royal Purple HPS has the zinc and phosphous in it.

 

have used joe gibbs,brad penn, etc but have used howards max with good luck so far Howards Cams, Max Z.P.M. Camshaft Break-In Lube, 4oz. - Competition Products

 

A little late to the party but Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 is what I use. It's made for our older engines zinc requirements and isn't expensive.