1986 F250 Weekend Warrior Truggy
D60 Swap and Sterling 10.25
4.10 Gears and lockers
NP208 .....205 203 doubler later on.
37 HMMWV Surplus on 16.5 steel

Engine info:

Orginal engine to truck was pulled and rebuilt with:
Stock rebuilt heads
Stock intake
new stock camshaft/lifters/rockers/pushrods
600 eddy
EGR Delete
HEI ignition
.40 over with billet wiesco pistons
clevite bearings
melling high volume
holly blue fuel pump with psi regulator
cloyse timing chain and gears
all felpro gaskets.
complete serpentine belt swap from efi 460

7k miles on rebuild before chop started.

I think thats it...

Inteded use was a ranch truck, now it is getting chopped for a weekend warrior / truggy. This will include cruising the beach and mud holes for fun, standing on the skinny pedal when i want to, and dragging out stuck rigs when i can help out. I usually dont get the small stuff... plenty of jeeps for that... im talking about a rig welder that burried his F350 on 37s with a fully equiped welding bed on it... to the frame in sand.

I just want good power out of my current heads and lower end... so i think that leaves me with putting a cam in it, intake, exhaust, carb... etc.

 

I hear this one is good... but is it going to give me what i am looking for?

ELGIN #E-1160-P

 

375-400HP 460ci

Intake System:

Holley 750 vacuum secondary
Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

Heads can be D0VE or D3VE with mild port job and port match
(315-ish/180-ish cfm @.600)
Intake valve size 2.08
Exhaust valve size 1.65
Stock rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam XE262H Hydraulic flat tappet cam or equivalent
(Specs:262/270 adv., 218/224@.050, .513/.520, 110 LSA)
Compression around 9:0:1
Stock crank
Stock rods with good bolts
Standard volume oil pump
Stock oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1.75" headers to dual 2.5" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 2.5" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 6000 rpm.

is this good info?

 

personally id go a little more on cam like 228/230 ish, i like the voodoo line.

 

• Can I do that without port n polish? It's already in the truck... kinda don't wanna take it down to the short block with just 6k on it

 

porting usually picks up flow from .300 to .700 lift, while good valves and valves jobs aid lower lifts. porting the 460 heads and then having a .520 ish lift is like getting 30 or 40 percent from your port work.

 

You don't want a cam with both the same lift and duration profiles on both lobes. Get a cam with more of both on the exhaust side.
The Edelbrock rpm air gap intake is a good choice.
The 3310 750 Holley is a good carb but can be a lot better if you get someone to remove the straight leg boosters and add down leg boosters. Also add a rear metering block kit. With jetting and maybe a spring change in the secondary vacuum pot they work great on a big block.
If you use the D3s do a lot of port work in the exhaust and just blend the seats on the intakes, If you want more out of them put bigger valves and new seats in too. With D3s when you are porting them you will fall through the smog tunnel, It's unavoidable. When I do a set I always take a long (I think it's a 7/16 drill) and drill both ways to get all the way through. Then I put a steel rod through and stake both ends to keep it in place. Put new plugs in both ends. The reason for this is the ports will "talk to each other" and is noticeable when the engine is cold and warming up. A good valve train with full roller rockers would be well worth having the heads milled, drilled and tapped for studs and guide plates. Use 1.73 rockers to get the right geometry. When checking for push rod length don't forget to add the lifters preload figure (I always add .030) to the new length. Make sure you check the retainer to guide clearance on any big block head. It's going to be minimal on the intakes with a big cam, I'd cut them down to .700 high and you might as well cut them for pc seals and spring seat cups while your at it.
You didn't say what type of pistons are in it, dished or flat top ? How far they are in the hole at tdc ? That would determine what head you would need to use.

 

i just looked up that elgin camshaft, differently a turd, i agree with mark on having a spilt in duration that favors the exhaust side.