Hey guys,

I have a 1978 Ford F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M. It has a Motorcraft 2150 carb, but I am unaware of whether it is the original factory carb. There is no carb ID tag, and the only thing I can find on the carb is a sticker that says "Factory Tested Carburetors". Is this a reman?

I am currently in the process of deciding whether to get a good restored/reman, or trying to rebuild the one I have. I would like to learn as I have never done it before, but I would like to know if the carb on there is original. If it is, I want to try and keep everything as original as possible.

Thanks for anyone's help

 

Hey man Welcome to FTE

If you can find a Ford Truck shop manual for '78 it should have all the details in the specifications exactly what carburetor and jetting and power valves and the rest of it. And a whole lot of other stuff, there are reproductions on disc or paper, usually around $40 and money well spent.

So long as it's sized right I wouldn't worry too much about originality. The most common mistake for replacement carburetors is to install one that is too large to be utilized. It is not unusual to have less performance while using more fuel. Ford engineers knew what they are doing.

Most carburetors can be rebuilt, the important thing to watch for is vacuum leaks. High mileage carburetors are prone to this as the throttle shaft wallers out the holes oversize in the carburetor body. It's a step above a basic rebuild for most DIYers but bronze bushings are the fix. Check carefully for excessive play or wobble in the ^ and > directions right at the throttle. If the carb is in otherwise good condition a rebuild kit will get it back up to spec. Be sure to use all the parts included that apply.

This is where the manuals come in handy. Nobody knows carburetors anymore, so most shops can't help you. Familiarize yourself by downloading the carburetor manuals for that model. When setup and installation and adjustment is done right they are almost as good as EFI.

 

Sorry, I don't know if the carb is remanufactured or not; however, I can suggest that you rebuild the carburetor you have. Does your truck currently run?


I've rebuilt Quadrajets, Rochester 4GCs, Holley 4150s, Holley 4010s and an Autolite 2100. Carburetors are all pretty simple to rebuild, even for a novice. It's not like your Motorcraft 2150 is a Motorcraft 7200 Variable Venturi carburetor. I would have reservations about rebuilding one of those. Mostly because I've hear they were POS.


Here is a place for "hard to find" parts:


2150 Carburetor Kits

 

Thank you both for the quick replies!

I will look at finding the original shop manuals. I have a Chilton right now.

I like the idea of rebuilding it myself as I learn something, and there is a bit of pride in it.

As for the rebuild, I will check the throttle play. However, without a carb tag how will I know I have the right kit until I disassemble? I visited Mike's carb and I see two kits, K4085 & K4096. Not sure which one to go with. Looking at the carb applications it seems the F4096 came on most of the 1978 models (at least the original carbs), and the K4085 came on earlier models. Only difference seems to be shaft size stem length of the diaphragm. Any thoughts or direction?

Any other parts to replace not in the kit? Float maybe?

 

The Chilton's and Haynes were good "back in the day" but there usually isn't enough specific info for what you want. The Ford manuals should list the exact carb that could have shipped with your truck, Venturi size, power valve #, jet size, boosters, float height and wet fuel height etc. I'd note what size jets are installed. Depending on who worked on it, anything could be installed by now.

The key to getting the carb running right is making sure the steel lines aren't clogged, there's no sediment in the tank and replace all rubber fuel hose and use new clamps. Test fuel pump for adequate volume and pressure, if it's old a fresh pump is a good idea. The carb must receive adequate fuel supply at all times under all conditions or it won't ever run right. New needle and seat for sure, should be in the kit. A new float might be necessary, the newer fuels are a lot more corrosive. Have to see if it has pinholes.

Then make sure the fuel height in the bowl is correct after idling for a while. Note this is not the same thing as the float height setting, the fuel height is what counts and affects how it runs at idle and cruise and even jetting to some extent. Then use the carb setup procedures in the .pdf from Mike's and tune it according to the manual. It's not really that difficult but everybody seems to want to ignore basic instructions. I don't get it. Access to the official pubs are a whole lot easier than when I was a kid, it's all online and downloadable today.

 

quick diagnostic, when the engine is running spray carb cleaner or WD-40 around where the shafts go through the carb base - if you hear a significant change in engine pitch like a stumble, you're sucking fluid past the shafts and will need to budget for the bushing job. If there is no real change, a THOROUGH CLEANING and simple kit replace should probably solve your problems

 

An original factory installed carb would not have a sticker of any kind placed on it.

Triangular shaped carb ID tag bolted to the top of the airhorn, but many of these tags are missing today.

Look on the base of the carb for a stamped carb ID number, similar to this: D8TE-AA or D8TE-9510-AA

Post what it is.

The 2150 carb was introduced in 1975, but there are quite a few variations and...at least...5 different kits.

Does your '78 F150 351M have A/T or M/T and does it have factory A/C? What is the DSO code (stamped on the 3rd line-far right of the Warranty Plate)?

 

Hey guys.

Just got back in from the truck. Got my new brake lines on her and also took the carb off.

The thing was not even anchored that well. Nuts were easy to take off. Anyways, all I could find was a casting number on the bottom "7TAYA". I have attached a pic of the location and number.

I am not sure what to check for in terms of play? Not too familiar with parts here and I am not going to make myself out to be an expert. Learner here, but know enough to be dangerous.

 

There is "play" in the throttle shaft. Enough to make a nice click back and forth. Not sure how much is acceptable if any.

 

Forgot to answer one of the previous questions.

It is a 351M auto trans 2WD with AC and DSO 28

 

That sure doesn't look like a Ford sticker on there. I think you have a reman.

I believe that the torque spec for carburetor nuts is in inch-pounds, as opposed to foot pounds. They don't get tightened all that much. Plenty of folks have broken the base by over-tightening.

 

Holley sez 5 to 7 ft lbs, it isn't a whole lot. Tightening in a criss cross pattern, using a torque wrench, means they are brought down evenly, I think that helps more than anything. Snug is plenty though. Check them after a few heat cycles. If they still tend to loosen blue loctite should work.

Hard to see from a smartphone but it looks that's a 1.21" venturi carb. It doesn't look too bad overall. Throttle shaft should have a close interference fit with the carb body with no discernable end play. I'd try a propane or WD40 test for vacuum leak but should be able to tell.

 

By any chance is there an I.D stamping on either the side of the fuel bowl or carb foot? This is a reman so only GOD knows what core was used.

Going through the application charts, the K-4085 kit is what you need IMO by application. The kit should have a fully detailed instruction sheet included.

-Rebuilding the Motorcraft 2150-

 

This should help with your rebuliding:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/88y5eo...+2brl+Carb.zip

 

You will need either another throttle plate asm or core.