Replace the EGR gasket & start the bolts into the side of the intake first.

The adapter screws into the "nose" of the manifold.

Then the brass flare nut over the tube screws into the flared end of the adapter.

Snug the adapter first, then the flare nut. They are both 1-1/4".

You don't have to hold one to tighten the other.

A air leak at the intake/EGR can cause idle issues.

A leak at the end of the exhaust manifold where the pipe /adapter screws in can cause the oxygen sensor to read wrong causing idle issues.

 

Thanks for the help with this pipe. I still haven't gotten to the pipe enough to check whether it's stipped or just loose but I've noticed there is a pattern in the surging that I'm thinking if it was from the pipe then the surging would be more constant. The surging starts after a certain amount of time driving after starting it cold for the first time of the day. And if i pull over and turn of the truck for a minute or two I can usually drive the rest of the day without a surge unless I let it sit and cool too long. Today I used a paper clip to check the codes and I did manage to read some but I can't tell the difference between the 111 or 33 it read for the KOEO/continuous reading. If someone could help me out and tell me if this is 33 or 111 it's blinking out that would be great.



Here is exactly what I've noticed with the surges incase that gives any clue along with all the codes it gave out today.

Starts first time of the day and RMP jumps to 1500 for a few seconds, then about 1200 for maybe 5 seconds, then drops to a thousand and stays there for about 1 minute before dropping to about 700.
I then drive it on the highway at about 55-60 miles an hour with the RMPS around 1500-1600 steady for anywhere between 8-20 miles (possibly depending on the temp outside). The first surge will be about 200 rmps and i will usually get a 2nd 200 rmp surge within a couple minutes. If i keep driving i will get about a 400 rmp surge within a minute after that. (this is usually when i pull over) If i keep driving It will go as far as a 1000 rpm surge (taking it up to 2500 rpms) and then it might slightly jolt. I have had it surge all the way from 1500 RMPS to 4500 rmps and a big jolt at that point.

Before the surging starts the Temperature gauge fluctuates from between the N and O (where it normally is) up to over the R. When it gets over the R that seem around the time the surges are likely to start. After I restart the truck the temp stays between the N and O for the rest of the day which could be driving a couple hundred miles. It drives good with no surges.

Last night i was driving in cooler outside temps and the pattern failed. it surged after about 40 miles of driving when i went over a bump in the highway on a slight hill and surged from 2000 rpms to 4500 rpms with a jolting. I had let it cool before that drive and it did the same high idle it does at first start of the day. When I start it later after it hasn't fully cooled the idle goes to 700 right away.

I bought this truck in June. Drove it on a 1300 mile trip with no surges. Then the alternator started locking up (burning smell, loud noise) and went out so I replaced that and changed out all the coolant (replaced upper radiator hose). After those two things is when the surging started which has me wondering if the alternator might have messed up a sensor when it was going out. Since the surging started I have replaced the TPS (TPS connector on both ends started to melt against EGR tube, i replaced the connection that is attached to the TPS but not the part it connects into) and I found a hole in a tube leading to the EVAP Fuel exhaust canister and fixed that. Also replaced fuel filter. Still surging....


Codes it read out today was the 111 or the 33 in the video.
Running test read - 536 and 632. (I think codes 536 and 632 are because i did the second half of test wrong and I will redo that. I read now I have to also tap break and turn overdrive on and off....)

It was my first time doing this and the running test was confusing. From the start of the running test my truck idled itself up to 1500 for a while which since it was warm and wouldn't normally have done that i assumed it was part of the running test but not sure.

p.s. i know theres another vacuum leak somewhere that i haven't found yet because A/C diverts on hills.

 

I was idleing my truck before driving to warm it first to see if I could prevent it surging later on and after 10-12 minutes of idleing (about the same amount of time it takes to surge on the highway) the RPMs started pulsing from about 600-1000 quickly up and down about every second. I turn it off and right back on again and it idles normally. I'm thinking whatever is causing that is causing the surging when I drive. I also replaced the new alternator with a motorcraft one I got from a salvage yard so I could test that that wasn't causing it and it changed nothing. So i am thinking that the old alternator failing probably damaged a sensor.

Is it okay for me to idle it until the surging starts and start unplugging sensors to see if it stops with one of them? If I can do that does anyone know which ones might be most likely to check first?

Also, i unhooked the egr valve again and this time i pushed the EGR pipe right (tighten) and it did tighten so it seems its not stripped and just at the edge of tightness. Now I just gotta get a slim enough tool to fit in the space to tighten it back.