is long gone from the feed line inside the tank.
Gasping for fuel?
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Gasping for fuel?
Long time lurker first time poster. I've got a 1969 f100 with a 360 in it. I've been working on it on and off for a while. Recently ran into a problem that I can't figure out. Little history first...truck has run/started on and off for about 10 years. I'm a teacher and the truck is still at my folks house so I only work on it in the summers on and off. Fixed little things one at a time. Recently had it starting and idling pretty well after replacing the distr cap, points, condenser and fuel filter. Decided to take it for a little cruise and it did something it's never done before. Cruising pretty good then would just cutoff like it was running out of fuel (of which the tank hand plenty). Is the new fuel filter bad? Something else? Thanks!
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Joined: May 2017
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Bet it has a clogged fuel line, take the fuel line off the pump and see if gas is coming out. If not take the gas cap off and blow some compressed air from the fuel pump line into the tank. If clogged it will blow it back into the tank and gas will flow again. If this is the case you will need to pull and clean the tank or replace it if it cannot be cleaned.
If you have have fuel flowing when you take the line off then start looking at filter, etc.. But would bet it's a clogged line.
I just went though this with a 70-F100 that we just bought that had been sitting for 10 years, someone in the past tried to pour a liner into it without cleaning it proper and it made a mess inside the tank and had to be replaced.
If you have have fuel flowing when you take the line off then start looking at filter, etc.. But would bet it's a clogged line.
I just went though this with a 70-F100 that we just bought that had been sitting for 10 years, someone in the past tried to pour a liner into it without cleaning it proper and it made a mess inside the tank and had to be replaced.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Put the old condenser back in, the new manufactured condensers are pretty much all junk. Very common problem, see it all the time.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Long time lurker first time poster. I've got a 1969 f100 with a 360 in it. I've been working on it on and off for a while. Recently ran into a problem that I can't figure out. Little history first...truck has run/started on and off for about 10 years. I'm a teacher and the truck is still at my folks house so I only work on it in the summers on and off. Fixed little things one at a time.
Recently had it starting and idling pretty well after replacing the distr cap, points, condenser and fuel filter. Decided to take it for a little cruise and it did something it's never done before. Cruising pretty good then would just cutoff like it was running out of fuel (of which the tank hand plenty). Is the new fuel filter bad? Something else? Thanks!
Recently had it starting and idling pretty well after replacing the distr cap, points, condenser and fuel filter. Decided to take it for a little cruise and it did something it's never done before. Cruising pretty good then would just cutoff like it was running out of fuel (of which the tank hand plenty). Is the new fuel filter bad? Something else? Thanks!
The original corrugated paper cartridge fuel filter is located inside a canister that threads onto the fuel pump.
People are unaware, so they install an in-line fuel filter. Meanwhile the cartridge fuel filter is getting more clogged up daily.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Bet it has a clogged fuel line, take the fuel line off the pump and see if gas is coming out. If not take the gas cap off and blow some compressed air from the fuel pump line into the tank. If clogged it will blow it back into the tank and gas will flow again. If this is the case you will need to pull and clean the tank or replace it if it cannot be cleaned.
If you have have fuel flowing when you take the line off then start looking at filter, etc.. But would bet it's a clogged line.
I just went though this with a 70-F100 that we just bought that had been sitting for 10 years, someone in the past tried to pour a liner into it without cleaning it proper and it made a mess inside the tank and had to be replaced.
If you have have fuel flowing when you take the line off then start looking at filter, etc.. But would bet it's a clogged line.
I just went though this with a 70-F100 that we just bought that had been sitting for 10 years, someone in the past tried to pour a liner into it without cleaning it proper and it made a mess inside the tank and had to be replaced.
Pulling the cap and testing will show if the cap is venting as it should.
Now the air blowing back into the tank from the pump can cause an issue.
There should be a screen filter aka sock. The air can blow it off or blow it up into pieces.
Now how old are the rubber fuel lines? Todays fuel kills them from the inside out so just replace them if old.
Dave ----
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Joined: May 2017
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You were on a run with pulling the cap then kind of went down hill and will tell you why.
Pulling the cap and testing will show if the cap is venting as it should.
Now the air blowing back into the tank from the pump can cause an issue.
There should be a screen filter aka sock. The air can blow it off or blow it up into pieces.
Pulling the cap and testing will show if the cap is venting as it should.
Now the air blowing back into the tank from the pump can cause an issue.
There should be a screen filter aka sock. The air can blow it off or blow it up into pieces.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
There is no sock used with the 1961/77 in-cab fuel tank sending unit, as the pickup tube is part of the tank itself.
It's only used on Passenger Cars/Bronco/Econoline; 1967/72 F100/350 with sender used w/the optional auxiliary fuel tank & 1973/79 F100/350 with mid-ship & aft axle fuel tank senders.
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Thanks for all the quick replies and sorry I never got back on to reply myself! Just had a chance to work on it. Threw a new capacitor in it and that did the trick initially. It started up a couple times and ran for a bit each time. Then it refused to start up again. Now it sounds like only half the cylinders are trying to fire up. As the starter is cranking it cycles back and forth in a short loop between sounding like it’s going to fire up and just the starter cranking. Seems like spark issues and not fuel now but I’m not sure. I guess I’ll look at everyithing in the distributor and make sure I put everything back together correctly as this is the first time I’ve messed with this part of the truck. Any other ideas? Thanks!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Points and condenser work fine, but if "new" condenser you installed = crappy el-cheapo foreign parts, they won't. A lot of people don't trust the electronic modules, I've never had any issue, but the point (heh) being they are stubborn and run points and condensers still. BUT, they use high quality points and condensers. Ignition parts have always been that way. Motorcraft still has points and condensers available.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Kenosha, WI
I installed a Pertronix 2 ignition and coil and I couldn't be more happy. I use the choke only sparingly on cold start-up and she usually starts by the 4th crank. I can't wait to go with a FiTech EFI set-up and say goodbye to carbs for good. I'm proud of the fact that I can adjust points and carbs but who doesn't want more performance AND better economy at the same time???
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Thanks for all the quick replies and sorry I never got back on to reply myself! Just had a chance to work on it. Threw a new capacitor in it and that did the trick initially. It started up a couple times and ran for a bit each time. Then it refused to start up again. Now it sounds like only half the cylinders are trying to fire up. As the starter is cranking it cycles back and forth in a short loop between sounding like it’s going to fire up and just the starter cranking. Seems like spark issues and not fuel now but I’m not sure. I guess I’ll look at everyithing in the distributor and make sure I put everything back together correctly as this is the first time I’ve messed with this part of the truck. Any other ideas? Thanks!
To test if your having a problem you can make up a length of wire about 3ft of 16ga. wire with alligator clips on both ends.
Now attach one end on the +hot side of the trucks battery & the other end onto the +side of the coil.
Now try turning the key an see if it'll fire up and run with no more problems. To kill the motor you have to remove the Hot wire.
By doing this, it puts a full battery voltage 12+ to the points.
If run for a good number of miles on 12v will pit the contact points faster.
The normal running voltage is like 6 to 8 volts so points last longer reduced voltage.
Orich
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
If you stay with the points set up stop buying aftermarket made in china crap. Ford (Motorcraft) still carries them as Ted mentioned. And they aren't made in china.
Points.......B8Q12171A (DP12)
Condenser.C9AZ12300A (DC13A)
Points.......B8Q12171A (DP12)
Condenser.C9AZ12300A (DC13A)
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New electronic ignition
I installed a Pertronix 2 ignition and coil and I couldn't be more happy. I use the choke only sparingly on cold start-up and she usually starts by the 4th crank. I can't wait to go with a FiTech EFI set-up and say goodbye to carbs for good. I'm proud of the fact that I can adjust points and carbs but who doesn't want more performance AND better economy at the same time???