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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 09:55 AM
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Engine Oil

Hi all, I don't put a lot of miles (under 2000 yr.) on my 49 F1 with a 302ci , was wondering how long the oil will last in the engine before I should change it. Last change was about a year ago...... they say the oils today can last a long time between changes depending on mfg. but what about vehicles like mine and maybe yours that don't see a whole lot yearly mileage?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:19 AM
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At least once a year!
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:24 AM
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The two issues of leaving oil in an engine too long are primarily oil breakdown(additives dissipate or wear out) due to heat, and moisture collection due to a lack of heat(not running the engine).
If you keep the truck in a well sealed garage that doesn't get too humid, you might be ok to leave it there for a while.

Oil change intervals are highly debated, since no situation is exactly like the next, so you will never get a correct answer.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:27 AM
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thanks guy's for your input, even though my oil has low miles, I'll go a head and change it along with the filter......well worth the $$ for good brand of oil/filter once a year.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 01:24 PM
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I have heard the 1 year max recommendation for many years (since the 1950s). But oils have changed significantly particularly the synthetic oils like Mobil 1, Castrol Edge and Valvoline SynPower. So logically that leads me to question this almost 70 year old recommendation as it applies to synthetic oil. Has anyone seen the actual data that shows an oil breakdown after one year? If it does break down wouldn't it do it in the can? Should we be checking the date codes on the new oil that we buy? I don't think so . . . but I would like to see some real data or reliable research.

Also the new engines have a light that comes on to tell you when to change the oil. It is not based upon time rather it calculates when you need to change the oil based upon how you drive. This is for Jeep but I think that other OEMs use something similar.
Understanding Jeep Oil Change Indicator Lights


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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Once a year....maybe a hair longer....no issues on my trucks
 
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 08:48 PM
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I change the oil once a year when I get my state inspection, regardless of the number of miles. Also get it greased.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 12:24 AM
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Once a year climate depending, you could stretch that if it is stored heated in an area that gets winter or in an area with no winter. The big issue is condensation in the crankcase. 18 months is probably the safe max limit even with new oils as after that length of time additives in the oil will start to oxidize.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 06:43 AM
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I change mine every spring. Probably put 1K-2K miles on it between changes. Even though temperatures regularly go below zero here, the vehicle is garaged and never driven in the winter.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Once a year climate depending, you could stretch that if it is stored heated in an area that gets winter or in an area with no winter. The big issue is condensation in the crankcase. 18 months is probably the safe max limit even with new oils as after that length of time additives in the oil will start to oxidize.
But is that enough condensation to amount to much? I still would like to see test data. I can only find data relating to mileage.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by petemcl
But is that enough condensation to amount to much? I still would like to see test data. I can only find data relating to mileage.
Any water in the oil is not good and yes it can amount to quite a bit. Especially if the vehicle is driven on short tips in cold weather. Want to see how much can be generated just take a cold beer outta the fridge and let it sit in the shade that should give ya idea how much condensation can be generated under the right conditions and that's on a beer can let alone a whole engine.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 02:26 PM
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If you want to eliminate guess work and tribal knowledge, just get a spectrographic oil analysis done. Costs average about $25 per sample. This will tell you all you will ever want to know about the condition of your oil, and if a change is recommended or not. You'll be amazed.
This is but one of many.
https://oil-testing.com/?utm_source=...BoC7AoQAvD_BwE
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Any water in the oil is not good and yes it can amount to quite a bit. Especially if the vehicle is driven on short tips in cold weather. Want to see how much can be generated just take a cold beer outta the fridge and let it sit in the shade that should give ya idea how much condensation can be generated under the right conditions and that's on a beer can let alone a whole engine.
Not a valid comparison. On our old engines (pre-PCV) "some" air can move in/out of the crankcase while it's parked, but there isn't much. A PCV-equipped engine has very little, if any, air exchange. No air, no moisture. Plus the engine would have to be considerably colder than the ambient air, which also needs to be humid. Winter air is notably not humid. An engine in a car parked in a garage in winter is going to be the same temp as the air around it.

By far the bulk of condensation comes from a cold start in winter, the condensation coming from products of combustion.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Not a valid comparison. On our old engines (pre-PCV) "some" air can move in/out of the crankcase while it's parked, but there isn't much. A PCV-equipped engine has very little, if any, air exchange. No air, no moisture. Plus the engine would have to be considerably colder than the ambient air, which also needs to be humid. Winter air is notably not humid. An engine in a car parked in a garage in winter is going to be the same temp as the air around it.

By far the bulk of condensation comes from a cold start in winter, the condensation coming from products of combustion.

There is always air exchange as moist air seeks out dryer air. As soon as moisture is sucked out of the surrounding air it will automatically suck moisture in to the engine continuing condensation. I have seen engines that have been parked for 3 or 4 years out of doors here under cover drain a qaurt or more of water out of the crank case just from condensation. How do you think the cylinder walls in engines corrode up over time even in engines that are not directly exposed to the elements...... condesation.

And it happens mostly in the fall and spring when then engine is under cover shaded and does not get heated up by the sun. It is not uncommon in on spring or even fall mornings to have an engine covered in frost when it has recovered from sub freezing temps and it is above freezing after sunrise.
Parked inside tends to control the humidity level to a degree and it does not see such rapid temp changes as out of doors.

And some locals the wintertime is the more humid season. Here the only time we get fog here is in the fall and the spring.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 08:14 PM
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[QUOTE=ALBUQ F-1;17391929]Not a valid comparison. On our old engines (pre-PCV) "some" air can move in/out of the crankcase while it's parked, but there isn't much. A PCV-equipped engine has very little, if any, air exchange. No air, no moisture. Plus the engine would have to be considerably colder than the ambient air, which also needs to be humid. Winter air is notably not humid. An engine in a car parked in a garage in winter is going to be the same temp as the air around it.

By far the bulk of condensation comes from a cold start in winter, the condensation coming from products of combustion.[/QUOTE
Exactly. The laws of thermodynamics support this. All things, including engines, must obey. ☺
 
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