Cackling noise
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 269
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From: Huntington WV
Cackling noise
I had a piece of an exhaust valve break off and as one knows, that requires a engine rebuild. $8000 in parts later I have a rebuilt engine with new upgrades to my previous upgrades; fluid dampener, chrome moly push tubes, billet flywheel, T-500 HPOP, new front cover, up pipes, Dieselsite ball bearing turbo, OEM rebuild kit, comp cam valve springs and all new valves. Had some issues with the Dieselsite turbo that was worked out. Now I have a cackling noise at idle and while driving. The noise momentarily goes away for about 2-3 seconds while accelerating, (actually gets very quiet) but the noise returns. It doesn't seem to effect my performance, just very loud. I performed a cylinder contribution test, (passed) and injector buzz test, (passed). Any ideas out there?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
How many miles since rebuild? Any chance it's just air trapped in the fuel / HPOP system still waiting to get worked out? How are the fuel pickups in the tank and fuel lines before the pump?
Sounds like a nice build. Did you assemble it yourself?
Sounds like a nice build. Did you assemble it yourself?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Huntington WV
I retorqued all the injector bolts, didn't really find any loose ones but they are tight now. It appears that retightening the injector bolts took the cackling noise away. I took her out for a drive and it lopes at idle until I rev it up a few times then it idles smooth. I remembered at one time a few years back it didn't run right and I found that the chip was coming out. At that time I put some tape over the chip to keep it in and not back out. So I checked the chip with the truck at idle and when I push in on the chip ever so slightly, the engine stalls. Maybe I have something with the chip? The Dieselsite turbo is putting out 30 pounds of boost but my EGT's climb very very quickly (over 1200) and I have a lot of black smoke so it appears I still need more air.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Asheville-where weird is
Just a word of caution. I have seen a PCM loose its magic (smoke) when a friend of mine did the same thing. $500 replacement. I would turn the ignition to the "OFF" position before I touched the chip.
Next, it sounds like that is an electrical contact issue. How much cleaning was done on the contacts on the PCM? You may need to "tin" them with solder if you can see the copper traces.
I am not saying that this will totally fix everything.
Next, it sounds like that is an electrical contact issue. How much cleaning was done on the contacts on the PCM? You may need to "tin" them with solder if you can see the copper traces.
I am not saying that this will totally fix everything.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Huntington WV
I checked and cleaned the PCM pins and everything is good.
I found one other interesting thing, when I start the truck right away without waiting for the glow plug light to completely cycle (Engine at operating temp) the engine will lope REALLY bad. Now, when I wait for the glow plug light to finish and then start the engine, it runs as normal. Ghosts & gremlins.
I'll try with the AIS lid removed and see what happens.
I found one other interesting thing, when I start the truck right away without waiting for the glow plug light to completely cycle (Engine at operating temp) the engine will lope REALLY bad. Now, when I wait for the glow plug light to finish and then start the engine, it runs as normal. Ghosts & gremlins.
I'll try with the AIS lid removed and see what happens.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
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From: Colorado Springs
I could be wrong but I was under the impression the WTS light was also to allow the fuel pump to pressurize the system. If I get carried away and start the truck up immediately without waiting the truck lopes or struggles to run...figured the pump was still trying to catch up. Like I said, I could be off in my thinking but it makes sense in my head. 
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Andy is right, it takes less than one second after turning the key (which turns on the fuel pump) for the pressure to go from resting to primed and ready at around 60 PSI. You have to remember that the bowl for the most part is retaining the fuel that was in there when the engine was shut off. The pump is simply filling the void and reapplying fluid pressure to the specification the engine is looking for.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Huntington WV
I thought about the fuel, but the fuel pump should "catch" up when it was running but it never did. Then shutting the truck off when it was running fine and immediately doing a restart not waiting for the glow plug light to cycle, she will lope REALLY bad.
So I dove her 70 miles yesterday and I can say the fuel cackling is gone. So although one torques the injectors to spec and they don't feel loose, still tighten them. Thanks!
I'll start a new thread on the loping issue.
So I dove her 70 miles yesterday and I can say the fuel cackling is gone. So although one torques the injectors to spec and they don't feel loose, still tighten them. Thanks!
I'll start a new thread on the loping issue.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
If mine is cold (here, it gets down to maybe 65 at night this time of year) I can go from putting the key in to cranking right away and it will idle OK and maybe lope a little. I think that's normal for a diesel. Everything is cold and doesn't want to move like it does when it's warm. But when the engine is warmed up I never bother with the plugs. I just get in and crank it right away and it goes from dead to a perfect idle in an instant.