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Old 08-09-2017, 03:42 PM
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Cackling noise

I had a piece of an exhaust valve break off and as one knows, that requires a engine rebuild. $8000 in parts later I have a rebuilt engine with new upgrades to my previous upgrades; fluid dampener, chrome moly push tubes, billet flywheel, T-500 HPOP, new front cover, up pipes, Dieselsite ball bearing turbo, OEM rebuild kit, comp cam valve springs and all new valves. Had some issues with the Dieselsite turbo that was worked out. Now I have a cackling noise at idle and while driving. The noise momentarily goes away for about 2-3 seconds while accelerating, (actually gets very quiet) but the noise returns. It doesn't seem to effect my performance, just very loud. I performed a cylinder contribution test, (passed) and injector buzz test, (passed). Any ideas out there?
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:21 PM
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How many miles since rebuild? Any chance it's just air trapped in the fuel / HPOP system still waiting to get worked out? How are the fuel pickups in the tank and fuel lines before the pump?

Sounds like a nice build. Did you assemble it yourself?
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:43 PM
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Thanks and Yes, I assembled the engine. I thought about air being trapped but I drove it 600 miles in one shot and still have the issue
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Old 08-10-2017, 07:14 AM
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have you been back under the valve covers and re-torqued the injector hold down bolts? Are you sure your not getting any air in the fuel?
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:51 AM
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+1 to re-checking the torque on the injector hold-downs.
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:46 PM
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Going to retorque the hold downs tonight.
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Old 08-10-2017, 04:49 PM
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I retorqued all the injector bolts, didn't really find any loose ones but they are tight now. It appears that retightening the injector bolts took the cackling noise away. I took her out for a drive and it lopes at idle until I rev it up a few times then it idles smooth. I remembered at one time a few years back it didn't run right and I found that the chip was coming out. At that time I put some tape over the chip to keep it in and not back out. So I checked the chip with the truck at idle and when I push in on the chip ever so slightly, the engine stalls. Maybe I have something with the chip? The Dieselsite turbo is putting out 30 pounds of boost but my EGT's climb very very quickly (over 1200) and I have a lot of black smoke so it appears I still need more air.
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:29 PM
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Just a word of caution. I have seen a PCM loose its magic (smoke) when a friend of mine did the same thing. $500 replacement. I would turn the ignition to the "OFF" position before I touched the chip.

Next, it sounds like that is an electrical contact issue. How much cleaning was done on the contacts on the PCM? You may need to "tin" them with solder if you can see the copper traces.

I am not saying that this will totally fix everything.
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:29 PM
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I hate to say it but your AIS intake may be holding you back. I love mine but I have stock injectors. You may need a S&B


Others may weigh in as well.
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Old 08-11-2017, 04:38 PM
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I checked and cleaned the PCM pins and everything is good.

I found one other interesting thing, when I start the truck right away without waiting for the glow plug light to completely cycle (Engine at operating temp) the engine will lope REALLY bad. Now, when I wait for the glow plug light to finish and then start the engine, it runs as normal. Ghosts & gremlins.

I'll try with the AIS lid removed and see what happens.
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:23 PM
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I could be wrong but I was under the impression the WTS light was also to allow the fuel pump to pressurize the system. If I get carried away and start the truck up immediately without waiting the truck lopes or struggles to run...figured the pump was still trying to catch up. Like I said, I could be off in my thinking but it makes sense in my head.
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:09 PM
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I have a fuel pressure gauge. Full pressure is available almost immediately after turning the key on.
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Old 08-12-2017, 06:22 AM
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Andy is right, it takes less than one second after turning the key (which turns on the fuel pump) for the pressure to go from resting to primed and ready at around 60 PSI. You have to remember that the bowl for the most part is retaining the fuel that was in there when the engine was shut off. The pump is simply filling the void and reapplying fluid pressure to the specification the engine is looking for.
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Old 08-12-2017, 06:47 AM
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I thought about the fuel, but the fuel pump should "catch" up when it was running but it never did. Then shutting the truck off when it was running fine and immediately doing a restart not waiting for the glow plug light to cycle, she will lope REALLY bad.

So I dove her 70 miles yesterday and I can say the fuel cackling is gone. So although one torques the injectors to spec and they don't feel loose, still tighten them. Thanks!

I'll start a new thread on the loping issue.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:44 AM
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If mine is cold (here, it gets down to maybe 65 at night this time of year) I can go from putting the key in to cranking right away and it will idle OK and maybe lope a little. I think that's normal for a diesel. Everything is cold and doesn't want to move like it does when it's warm. But when the engine is warmed up I never bother with the plugs. I just get in and crank it right away and it goes from dead to a perfect idle in an instant.
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