fI have to replace my up pipes and need help selecting the right one. I have seen them on ebay from $68 to $350. Summit racing 200-

Anyone have any advice?

Note: This is not on the truck in my sig. I am about to purchase a 2002 f350.

 

Dorman and be done with it.

 

+1

I bought the cheaper then Dorman up pipes and did not like the fit. Sent them back and went Dorman. Zero complaints

 

The IH pipes are more expensive, but when I talked to Clay about the differences between the IH and the Dorman pipes, he said he will put Dorman pipes on in his shop, but he won't warranty them. That was enough for me - I went with IH.

 

OK, since you started it I'll add my $.02...I like quality when I can afford it and I have full faith that IH quality is far superior to Dorman. Up pipes isn't a job I liked the first go-round and might consider suicide if I have to make a second one. The welds on the IH pipes are as good as they could get and won't deteriorate anytime soon. 'Fit and finish' as they call it was perfect, no check them before installation and make any modifications first. And one variable that nobody has really nailed down yet is the quality of the metal that the Dormans are made of. Consensus seems to be that they are SS but there are different grades of SS and nothing has been proven to me yet on the quality of that. I have also had bad experience with other Dorman stuff so I am sour on them for the most part. I did, however, use their rear brake backing plates when I did them because they were $100 cheaper and I didn't feel as though quality mattered much there but the new Dormans weighed noticeably less that the rust eaten OEM plates that I removed.

 

I went with a set of Dorman when they came out and even switched out the hardware to the nicer OE hardware because the bolts that came with the kit looked worse than what you can get at Ace Hardware. Welds didn't look great on the Dorman and I had to drill and tap the bolt holes in the collector deeper because there were off by about 1/4". After all of that they only lasted about 8 months or so until one of the welds at the bellow cracked and started leaking.

Not really happy to have to do the job again, I ripped them out, put International pipes and and they have been doing fine for the last several years. Should have just done it right the first time as it wasn't worth paying twice, plus my labor for the chance to save a little on some Chinese replicas. Do yourself a favor and just get IH from the start.

International Bellowed Stainless Up-pipe Kit 99.5-03

 

Just did IH from Clay couldn't be happier. While you're in do the EPBV delete and new pedestal. Additionally, I found the job pretty straight forward. I bought an 18" extension with one swivel and it worked perfectly. Followed the guides on here, loads of PB blaster and put the passenger side up pipe on tight frst and left the driver's side loose.

 

I am new to the power-stroke. What is the EPBV?

 

The exhaust back pressure valve. It is supposed to assist warming the engine by the computer having it closed or partially closed when cold. However, it is a very good source for oil leaks if seals fail.

This what you need from Clay to do the job:

International Bellowed Stainless Up-pipe Kit 99.5-03

Garrett Non-EBPV/ Blank Pedestal 99.5-03 7.3L Ford

Turbo Re-Install Kit - 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet - Riffraff Diesel Performance

I dont think I missed anything, if I did someone else will chime in. I budgeted 2 days for the job but I did a 4" turbo back pipe too. The 2 days was awesome - let me take my time and not get frustrated. I had surprisingly few challenges that others have reported - think I was fortunate. Just remember to leave one side of the up pipes and turbo loose when refitting the babies butt to make it easy - mine went straight on.

 

When I tore into the broken OEM up-pipes and turbo 1.5 years ago I decided to go with the Dorman up-pipes for ~$100 from Amazon at the time.

I inspected them very closely when they arrived and was satisfied with the welds, fit and finish as a whole for $100. I am positive that the IH version pipes are superior to the Dorman and frankly if I lived in the rust belt or anywhere close to it I would have selected the IH pipes.

Since I live in GA and the state literally stops EVERYTHING if there is forecast for snow flurries, I was not concerned too much about the Dorman pipes. I was recently working on my evaporator coil and cleaning it out and had a good look at the up-pipes from the top and bottom. They looked as good 2 weeks ago as they did the day I installed them.

Use your own judgement as it is your time and money you are spending. If you want peace of mind for years to come, get the IH pipes. If you want "this will work just fine" then select the Dorman.

I cannot put it any more simple than that.

PS - Since you are in SD you may want to consider leaving the EBPV and rebuild the seals that tend to leak instead of removing it. I removed mine, but again we don't get cold weather down here much below 35 degrees.

 

I deleted my EBPV....wish I still had it in the winter.

 

I would have kept my EBPV but with the turbo outlet that I had to install with the van turbo it couldn't be done.

 

Says the guy who lives in Minnesota.

 

I value the OEM but when I can purchase the Dorman 3X cheaper over OEM I went with the Dorman. I believe that Dorman upped their quality because mine went together perfectly.

 

Another satisfied Dorman user here but like Sous I live I the deep South. Yeah it's not a fun job to replace them but even "IF" they rot out in 8 to 10 years you can have 3 new sets for the cost of IH. Fit and finish is not pretty but functional.

The advice to keep the EBPV in cold climates is good. These things can take a while to warm up in moderate temps. I would definitely want it if i lived north of the Mason Dixon line