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I've got a 06 f350 with 61k miles and I had the coolant flushed at Caruso Ford dealer in Long Beach CA. Before the flush I noticed my engine temp was regularly at around 190 on my scangaugeII, then after the coolant change it bounced around from 190 to 220. I know the engine temps can change due to weather temps, road condition and hauling heavy loads but why would I see these temp changes bounce so much? I do run the air conditioner and have driven it over some mountain roads but I can't remember the last time I saw 220 on my scangaugeII, any ideas why?
Was the thermostat replaced? Not doing it yourself you don't know if they damaged the old one that is now sticking or installed a cheap replacement that is now giving you inconsistencies.
No the thermostat was not replaced, but that could be the reason why I'm getting these readings. It is a 10 year old truck, maybe it's about time I replace it. Thanks
Simple to do yourself.
Use a 19mm and drain 2-3 gallons from the bottom of the radiator. (Caution: Do not over tighten the plug. It is an o-ring seal & doesn't require a lot of torque to snug it)
Unbolt the 2 nuts on the thermostat housing.
Disconnect the top radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the housing and hose and replace with a new one on the bench being sure to align the white stripe on the hose with the alignment boss on the new Motorcraft or International housing.
Reinstall and refill.
Well I found a leaking CAC hose at the turbo. I replaced both the top and bottom hoses as well as the drive belt. Temps seem to be normal now but I'm not sure if the hose was my problem all along.
Gray line going into AC hose from the firewall to the ac compressor.
I found this cable disconnected from the AC line as well. I drove my truck yesterday in 102 temp outside, temp ran at 202 then back down to 191 when I got home. I'll continue to monitor on my next trip to AZ next month and report back any changes.
The grey vacuum line is connected to the heater core coolant valve. When vacuum is applied it draws in and closes the valve so that hot coolant is not flowing through the core. This makes the HVAC more effecient for the AC by lowering the air temp in the box.
Simple to do yourself.
Use a 19mm and drain 2-3 gallons from the bottom of the radiator. (Caution: Do not over tighten the plug. It is an o-ring seal & doesn't require a lot of torque to snug it)
Unbolt the 2 nuts on the thermostat housing.
Disconnect the top radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the housing and hose and replace with a new one on the bench being sure to align the white stripe on the hose with the alignment boss on the new Motorcraft or International housing.
Reinstall and refill.
Correction, it's simple as long as you don't have an early build with the EBP mounted to the housing
What a PITA, just about stripped the threads trying to get one bolt out, made me nervous
Correction, it's simple as long as you don't have an early build with the EBP mounted to the housing
What a PITA, just about stripped the threads trying to get one bolt out, made me nervous
No correction needed since the OP's is an 06.
But I hear yeah since I have an early 2005 and my EBP sensor is there. Still no problem, double wrench it and unscrew the line flare nut and the bracket and sensor comes right off and out of the way.
