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2011 positive battery cable fix?

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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 11:30 AM
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2011 positive battery cable fix?

Just changed both batteries on my 2011 6.7. Noticed that the passenger side positive terminal connector may not be long for this world. I have searched and have not turned up anything really useful. Anyone had this problem and repaired it with out replacing the entire cable harness? I found something at a local auto parts place called a battery cable extender. Might work but I cannot find the cable gauge. Anyone repair theirs or have a idea?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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Same issue

The battery cable on my 2015 is deteriorating too. Will keep watching this thread for a part number if someone mentions it.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 05:06 PM
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Even if they were not POS terminals, LOTS of battery drain from keyless entry, and remote start ( those radios are "listening" 100% of the time, plus electric seats and mirrors that all move when you use a different key drain the battery = positive terminal corrosion. If over charging it is the negative terminal.


Originally Posted by Braggs
The battery cable on my 2015 is deteriorating too. Will keep watching this thread for a part number if someone mentions it.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 05:46 PM
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Whenever I buy a new vehicle as in my 2015 F-350, I soak the cable end, strands with NOCO NCP-2 corrosion inhibitor. I also clean the battery terminals and apply the same. Cables still look new. Can be purchased at Napa.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:29 PM
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High current audio connectors be your friend here. Not necessary these but similar

Rockford Fosgate RFDB1 1/0 or 4-Gauge Positive-Negative Battery Terminals (Pair)
Amazon Amazon

Kicker BT4 Positive/Negative Competition Battery Terminal with 1/0-8 Gauge and 4-8 Gauge Output
Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 01:29 PM
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Thanks cangim. That may very well be the ticket there.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 09:25 AM
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I should have checked mine. Wife just reported it won't start. Took a look and the positive clamp on driver battery had broken in half and was no longer making a connection. Ordered the ones listed above in second link, hoping I can find enough slack in the existing cable to make the connection.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 11:54 AM
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I'd be careful to check those replacements frequently, especially if used on the positive terminal. They simply screw down on the bare wire, not the most secure of connections. If it pulls loose, the other battery will still be connected so if the wire touches ground you will have a heck of a fire in no time at all. It would be a good idea to secure the cable near the clamp so that it can't go anywhere if it comes loose.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 12:17 PM
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Good point. May try soldering it if that's feasible.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 03:05 PM
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Soldering may work if the clamp is copper. If it's lead alloy, 'gonna be tricky. From experience, you will want to use pretty high heat to get the soldering done before the heat soaks way up into the cable, which will wick the solder up there and make it real stiff.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 04:22 PM
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Good point! I'll try to get them both tinned well and see if I can get it done!
 
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