So I have never owned a diesel truck before. To be honest I do not need one. I occasionally find myself or some of my close friends with a need for a truck but not all the time. I do not haul horse trailers, heavy enclosed trailers, or really anything that would require a diesel truck. Really the only reason I am even considering buying one is just because of a want and fascination for them. So I started doing research on what would be the most reliable powerstroke out there that would be in my budget. I stumbled upon the 2003 to 2007 powerstroke 6.0L. Since then I have done TONS of research and found out that pretty much if this engine is not bulletproofed correctly and completly it is more then likely not going to last...there are exceptions. So that being said I then stumbled upon all types of articles and forums and videos about these engines being bulletproofed and how to do it and where to go and all kinds of information. I eventually landed on a youtube series called Powerstroke Help. A lot of you have probably seen or heard about this video series and are aware of what he does. From what I understand he initially had this repair shop fixing powerstrokes and has now continued doing that but now buys used auctioned or salvaged powerstrokes and fixes them up to sell them. Anyone know what I'm talking about? I was definatly interested in what he had to say about the 6.0L because it sounded liked he was pationate about them and really new what he was talking about when talking about them. So then I became interested in the ones that he was fixing up and selling. Anyone familure with the process the trucks he gets go through when he fixes them up to sell them? From what I have watched, he completely bulletproofs the engine, replaces the transmission if needed, cleans up the body, cleans or replaces the interior cab, offers a two year warranty on the engines, and offers a lifetime warranty on the heads. Based on the videos he uploads, I will defiantly say these trucks LOOK very nice considering they are 2003-2007. As far as mechanically working and reliable, according to the videos they are, but I nor anyone I know has ever owned one that can say one of his trucks he has bulletproofed has been reliable. If anyone has seen his videos you know that he is asking a premium price for them. Are his 6.0L for sale trucks reliable or worth the money? Are any bulletproofed 6.0L reliable and or worth a premium price? Even if the truck has been bulletproofed and a newer transmission has been put into the truck, what about all the other major components? Electrical systems, drive axles, axles, suspension systems, hoses, fittings? Does all that need to be replaced or fixed as well? If anyone has anything that could help me I would defiantly appreciate your knowledge and help. Sorry for the long post.

 

You are better off researching Powerstrokehelp.com yourself and making your own decision. If he stands by the warranty, then it becomes a price and value decision. He has said some goofy things (blatantly wrong) in his videos specifically relating to the 6.0L powerstroke, but we all know that he doesn't rebuild the trucks - he has people doing it. As in all things - "who does the work" and "how well it is done" is HUGE!

To me the important question is "What can you afford and what is your need?".

You have already answered about "needing" one. Since you don't absolutely NEED one, then only you can do the economics.

These diesel trucks can be expensive to maintain and expensive to work on. Even if you do most of the work yourself, parts aren't cheap. Even if you buy a good one (ie no base engine problems) turbos, injectors, high pressure oil pump, etc. might have issues.

As with any used vehicle purchase - you need to have money set aside for repairs and you probably shouldn't rely on it for your sole means of transportation and livelihood. Repairs can quickly get to $2k to $3k range. Even higher if you are unlucky (sometimes a used vehicle purchase can just be a complete lemon - no particular fault of who you bought it from).

IMO there is nothing "significantly better" about the 6.0L ancillary components than any other vehicle. Electrical system, drive systems (except the transmission has proven to be VERY reliable when taken care of), suspension systems wear out with service time (miles) and degree of abuse. Who knows what a used truck has gone through in these areas. I will say that I have had my truck 11 years and almost 200k miles and have not yet had any issues with the electrical system, or with steering, suspension, drive train, etc. Early on, I installed some upgraded ball joints and they have done well. I have installed shocks several times and done brake jobs several times. All of it as expected and normal wear-and-tear. I have had (and still do have) an issue w/ a vacuum leak at a 4WD hub. Disappointing, but I can manually lock the hubs so it isn't a real problem.

Some of the early 6.0L trucks had more wiring harness issues than the later models (primarily chafing issues). They also have an issue with the reliability of the OEM high pressure oil pump. They do however have less issues with high pressure oil leaks than the later models. I mention these areas because repairs can get somewhat expensive. If the engine has ever been overheated or "run hot", that can caused reduced life in electrical components, rubber components, etc. No way to really know the history that well unfortunately. That is why I like private party purchases better. IMO you have a better chance of getting the trucks "history", but even then you can be lied to!

Ball joints don't seem to last extraordinarily short or long - depends on the service IMO. Same w/ steering and suspension components.

Some injectors last 250k to 300k miles. Some struggle to make 150k miles. A lot depends on the maintenance (filter changes, etc) and the fuel pressure maintained. Sometimes the issues are unrelated to operational conditions and maintenance though - at least the way it seems over the internet.

Turbos can last a long time or have problems earlier than they should. Reasons for longevity and/or early failure seem to depend on getting regularly "worked" (ie don't baby the engine and don't take ONLY short trips to the store). That said, IMO it will be impossible to predict how long one will last in a used truck purchase situation.

The A/C systems seem to be pretty darn reliable and failure rates seem low.

There is so much more, but you say you have been reading the forums (great thing to do btw) ...................... Maybe this will "get the ball rolling" for you.

 

Bismic,
Thank you for the information. So with previous vehicles I have had aside from general maintenance (oil changes, tires, differential fluids, trans fluids, belts) I have not had to do much more to the vehicle to keep it running. Does the 6.0L have hidden maintenance that most people don't know about? If it were to not be worked hard during my ownership would it still require some expensive TLC just to keep it functioning? My fear is after purchasing one there will be constant maintenance items that I was not aware of and will turn into a money pit. Again this truck will not be working hard for me. I have also read and heard that the need to use very specific oils, coolant, and filters is crucial. Is this true? What do general maintenance costs look like?

 

Use OEM filters only (fuel, oil, air). This means either Motorcraft or Racor - ONLY. I get mine at dieselfiltersonline.com OR I buy them on-line from AutoNation White Bear Lake. You join FordParts.com and specify them as your dealer of choice. Great prices and reasonable shipping!

Oil change - 5k miles. Takes 14 qts (+/-). Use a synthetic 5W40 or a good 10W30 oil. I prefer the 5W40 and have had the best oil analysis results with the Mobil 1 TDT and Mobil Delvac 1. Most people use Rotella 5W40. Oil filter cost at these places - $16. Oil can cost $4-$5 a quart (not far from $100 every oil change).

Fuel filter change (two filters - both need to be changed) - 10k miles. Fuel filter cost $35 to #40. Drain the water out of the primary fuel filter (called the HFCM - Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module) at least every 5k miles (on oil changes).

Transmission fluid - use Mercon LV or Mercon SP. Lots of folks have said that the Valvoline MaxLife works fine also. I get my SP from dieselfiltersonline.com. Drain and refill every 30k miles. Change the external filter every 30k miles also. I actually drain and fill. Then run it a day to circulate. Then I repeat this cycle 2 more times. A drain is 8 qts (pan has a drain valve) and the full system charge is around 19 qts. I do it 3 times to get most of the old fluid out. Many people would probably say this is overkill, but it has worked well for me. Mercon SP is around $7 a qt. The filter is around $20. The NTZ one probably works fine for $13.

Air filter - OEM is best also. Absolutely NO NEED for an aftermarket cold air intake. Air filter will last 50k to 100k miles. Watch the filterminder. Air filter cost $50.

Coolant maintenance depends on what coolant you have in it.
Ford Gold - drain and flush every 40k miles. This coolant isn't very robust and if you every get it hot or exposed to exhaust gasses, it can start dropping solids and making sticky gobs of polymers and silicate goo. Most people realize that there are better choices.
ELC coolant. If you switch to it, choose an EC-1 (CAT rating) rated ELC coolant. Make sure you do VERY THOROUGH drains and flushes when changing coolant. Make sure the final 3 rinses are with distilled water. Since so much water is retained in the engine, you will need the concentrate (100% coolant) to get to the 50/50 mix you need. The total system holds a little more than 7 gallons, so you will need 3.5 to 4 gallons of concentrate. Not sure how often you would need to drain and refill the ELC coolant. I do mine every 100k miles. I bet it would go longer.

I do the transfer case and the differentials (fluid drain and fill) every 50k miles.

I purge and refresh the brake fluid every 2 years. Every year would be better! The brake system lasts a lot longer w/ good clean and "moisture-free" fluid.

If you still have an EGR system, you probably should pull, inspect, and clean the EGR valve every year or so. Cleaning the EGR valve must be done carefully or you can damage the valve. Not hard at all, you just need to know how. Lots of threads on it, but use Carb cleaner (not brake cleaner) and make sure you do not get fluid into the solenoid.

I installed a power steering filter (Magnefine) and change it annually. It is an easy mod.

Many people install coolant bypass filters. It is good insurance against crud that MIGHT plug up the oil cooler. Oil cooler design is such that the coolant passageways are small. It acts as a very good coolant strainer.

Speaking of oil coolers, BulletProofDiesel (BPD) makes some great upgrade options to the OEM oil cooler. They are expensive though. Other aftermarket oil coolers can cause problems and might restrict the cooling. IMO go BPD or stay w/ the OEM and make sure you properly maintain your coolant! Clogged up oil coolers may be the #1 thing that "buyers of used 6.0L diesels" may get bit by.

 

Diesel pickup trucks across the board will have higher maintenance costs. Just by volumes, oil and coolant will be more expensive. Technical repair requires additional training then gas fueled, and repair parts cost more. In some areas they are more complex, so repair labor is higher. And with the more sophistication, when things go bad it can get real expensive.

And unlike a decade or two ago, fuels costs don't make up for that.

There are probably three threads going on right now where owners are technically not savvy and struggling understanding their problems, and one who I suspect has done more damage to his vehicle then repairing it. Not that the same couldn't have been done with a gas motor, but probably 3x in cost and frustration.

A diesel is a good option for a diesel enthusiast, or a person who needs the power in their tasks. I would say it not something to enter lightly.

Stepping back from the iPad for a few minutes, it's not that some of the latest gas motor would not suffer some of the same challenges. An F-150 with an Eco-Boost takes skill and training to repair (not as much as a 6.0 IMO).

With the 6.0 there were some missteps in its production. Some parts suppliers to Nav had issues, corrected during production, but up to owners to later correct usually from failure. Some of Ford scheduled maintenance was optimistic and led to issues, then Fords corrective procedure caused more issues. There were missteps and any diesel motor is more sensitive to proper techniques, a little more so with the 6.0 due to its head design.

My career was basically product testing, finding problems. So 30 years of doing that has not made me be the person to ask "How's my kid doing?" at a little league game. It also may not make me the person to comment on should I buy this truck?

 

In addition the the post above, IMO every 6.0L owner should install an electronic gauge system. Watching critical engine parameters can catch problems developing so that they can be fixed before they get way more expensive.

The most cost effective monitoring system is a phone or tablet app coupled with an ELM327 bluetooth adapter. torque and Forscan are good for Android. DashBoss for iOS. There are a lot more options - varying greatly in cost and function (Edge CTS, scangaugeII, etc).

Keep an eye on boost, coolant temp, oil temp, and the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module) voltages. Watching the high pressure oil parameters is helpful, but mainly used for troubleshooting.

You should also add a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. Low fuel pressure can damage injectors. 45 psig minimum - at all times. Ford did not install a sensor unfortunately. Lots of threads on this.

An EGT probe is nice also. IMO it is a must for aftermarket turbos and it is good information on stock systems.

You need to ensure that you have a good alternator and good batteries. So much in these engines and control system depends on good voltage and amperage. The stock alternators (110A) are marginal at best. FICMrepair.com is the place to buy an alternator. The Leece Neville alternators seem to be proving to be VERY good units. IMO you need at least 140 Amp alternator. Low voltage will ruin your FICM quickly. You need to catch problems quickly or you will be repairing your FICM.

If you ever do have a FICM problem, do not replace it. Send it to FICMrepair.com. They will make it much better than new. Very competent/honest company!

Batteries - lots of opinions here. Making sure your alternator is healthy will help you be successful with batteries. Just make sure you keep your batteries healthy. Lots of cases of no-starts with the only problem being bad batteries. Simple voltage checks are not good enough. If you suspect an issue, then charge them and individually load test them!

Hopefully this helps!

 

LOL - I think a lot of us are in the same category!

Well said Jack.

 

I don't need one, but it sure makes pulling the 8K travel trailer easier. I had actually decided on a v10 gas and had one lined up but acted just a bit too slow. I love the diesel for pulling but, like mentioned by the two good guys above, it'll require a lot of money. If you don't wrench and/or are cash tight, give it a hard look, even if it's been "bulletproofed".

 

Personally, I would look for a good used one from a private seller and have money set aside for Super Duty Service in Grain Valley, Mo. to do all the upgrades when the time comes.

Maybe they are even selling trucks that they have upgraded.

At a minimum, I would get in touch with them. I think they are the most competent shop around and their service is a little more personalized than most.

Super Duty Service in Grain Valley, Mo

 

The guys giving advice on here are very knowledgeable so read carefully and absorb as much as you can. The Powerstrokehelp guy is pretty goofy and has said some crazy stuff, but honestly you can learn a lot from his videos. Even just the basics on how the systems works and are tied together, not many other videos out there as in depth as he has done some of them. It's just sorting the good stuff from the bogus, he's a salesman first and foremost you have to understand. Superduty Service has a lot of videos too, Anthony Youngblood is his channel on youtube. As advised before, that's who I'd take a truck to if I were within 3,000 miles of him :-)

I was in the same situation as you about a year and a half ago, except I had a camper to pull with it (could be pulled with a gasser though). I've put a lot of money and time into my truck but I don't regret it at all. Opened my eyes to a whole new world and it's pretty interesting and fun. I don't need the truck at all but it'd be the last thing I'd sell.

 

Unless you're talking about the company in Arizona, this is a useless marketing term term that's worth less than a wood nickle. It doesn't convey anything even remotely useful, and it usually used to justify outrageous markups and long lists of "upgrades" that people somehow think drive a higher selling price.

Would you pay double for a house that was gutted and rebuilt by someone who may or may not be competent at carpentry (much less plumbing, electrical, etc), just because it "has all new drywall" and all the wall plugs are 15A instead of 10A? Kind of a few open questions that might bear considering before jumping on that deal.

 

I appreciate everyone's input and advice....learning a lot I didn't know. So it sounds like buying from a private seller might be the better route to go. Any suggestions on good places to look for a used 6.0L in good shape? Websites? Forums? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

Learn from the problems here, acquire the means to monitor off the OBD2 port and use the tool when prospecting vehicles.

When I was searching in a 100 miles radius for the perfect used vehicle to give our granddaughter for her graduation, AE on my laptop was spectacular for finding unseen issues. Even had one dealership used car manager offer me a job for finding all the faults on his offering. But you don't need the expense of AE and a laptop with some of the Smartphone tools.

There's no special sites to use, just the typical Cars, AutoTrader, and Craigslist. Craigslist can have a higher ratio of problem dumps, but can be a little cheaper where people try to get a few dollars more then what trade in is offering. Negotiation is key, take Performance (Bill) with you.

Negotiation is also key at the dealers. Used car guys are spectacularly good at putting lipstick on a pig, it's what they do EVERYDAY. Again, tools and knowledge are key. They buy a lot of their replacement parts from salvage yards, although considering some of the rebuilt parts offering from retail stores, I've gone salvage for components, too. My former across the street neighbor owned and worked in used car lots.

New car dealers with a used car lot tend to provide a little better product, and have no problem selling for $4k to $10k more then they traded for if the vehicle is in good mechanical shape. The 7.3L to 6.0L transition years a good example. If it's mechanically questionable for more then they want to expose their rep for, it goes to auction immediately. But that higher profit margin is usually them having a better product. Usually, but they flip for profit too.

No-one is going to flip a vehicle without profit less your looking for a rolling chassis. The private seller is normally the least experienced at negotiation, but as I said earlier, you have to have knowledge and tools.

 

I have watched quite a few videos on Bill Hewitt's Powerstrokehelp.com/youtube. That being said, I know very little about diesels. I think that the maintenance costs & other considerations may rule out a diesel truck for you. If you're not going to do REAL work with it, you're better off not owning a Powerstroke. My opinion, though. If you have a good amount of expendable income, though, go for it.