Want to replace the tie rods on my 2005 F350 KR SWB RWD CC truck. Lot of complaining about rusted parts making it difficult to replace, so taking the easy way out (I thought) I just bought all new ball joints and tie rods (inner and outer) with the clamps for $300. Figured spending money will save on time.

The punchline is, they don't screw together!!! Yes, I know the left side is backwards threaded. No the parts aren't boxed wrong. I CAN NOT get them to thread in without cross threading!!!! It should not be this hard to thread a bolt into a nut..... But these are not doing that.

ANY TIPS???

I'm about to throw the whole mess in the street!

Anyone actually buy all parts and assemble new vs. retrofitting into your old stock ones? Any tips on getting them assembled? I took out the old ones so I would have a perfect model of what it was supposed to look like with measurements and everything, but from what I've seen, these parts are junk!

 

While MOOG is not the absolute best, I have had fairly decent luck with their tie rods and ball joints on my truck. Although I don't tow, I load the bed heavy, drive lots of miles on bad roads, and I drive it hard.
I also recall having a bit of difficulty initially getting the tie rods threaded into the sleeves. However, I have had this problem in the past, with other brands and other vehicles.

You have to remember, the sleeves are split, so the threads aren't exactly perfect. You just have to have patience. Also, these parts a heavy, compared to lighter duty trucks and cars. This can make if difficult to hold the parts perfectly "squared up" to each other as you then try to spin it to thread them together. Maybe try clamping the tie rod in a vice, and focus on carefully threading the sleeve on.

Of course, its also possible the threads may have been damaged, either storage, or from a previous purchaser buying, messing them up, and returning to the store. Carefully inspect all the threads, especially the exposed outside threads of the tie rods. If they are not perfectly straight/smooth, then exchange them for replacements.


Smart move keeping all your old parts together and intact, for reference. Measure, measure, and measure some more, as you match every dimension perfectly to the old stuff ( once you get the new one threaded properly). You need to be as accurate as possible, down to 1/16". I used the grease fittings as consistent solid measuring point that I could hook my tape measure on.



Oh also, as far as MOOG, stay FAR, FAR AWAY from their wheel bearing/hub assemblies for the front of Super Duties......... I have had nothing but rapid failures from a number of them. Most were warrantied by Advanced, but it has gotten very tiresome having to change them every few months. Every one has had a failure of the so called "sealed" unit bearing assembly, which in turn loosened the preload and made them wobble/grind. They recently released an "update" that is supposed to fix that. However, whatever they changed now makes the part not fit at all. The stub shaft can no longer stick out far enough to get the 3 spacers and the snap ring on, and something grabs the shaft and spins it as though the locking hub is engaged.

 

I just did the same thing my to my truck not too long ago. Same problem too, sat in my driveway for probably 20 minutes just trying to get the brand new moog tie rod ends to thread into the brand new moog sleeves. Fully knowing about reverse thread and going slow, came close to blaming the beer. Finally got her.

I've always heard good things about moog, I think it just the split in the sleeve that sends the threads off. You have to push just right while its lined up.

 

Ok, so after trying and thinking I was inept, I took all the parts to my local front end shop who said very quickly that the sleeve was milled wrong. He tried to assemble them too, and couldn't. Went to advanced, bought another one (exact same) and it threaded perfect and easily... SO, maybe they don't SUCK, but at least 1 slipped through quality control and ended up at my house. Only wasted 1 day dealing with that...

ANYWAY, the ball joints and tie rods are all in.

Tips:

Don't waste time on ANY pickle fork. They suck and don't work on these big trucks. However, I rented a pitman arm puller "FOR LIGHT TRUCKS" specifically from Autozone OEM brand, and that was the right tool!!! The biggest PITA was getting the pitman arm to drag link bolt off. I had to make an almost 2' long 1/2" extension with a U joint and remove the air box and access it to remove and torque from the top. That worked great. And, also, after hand mounting the pitman arm puller from the bottom, I ratcheted down on it from the top the same way. Popped right off.

Also, mine is a 2wd RWD and I didn't know anything about packing the bearings or new seals. So, be prepared to do that if you have a 2wd. However, all the aftermarket wheel hub seals I found locally do NOT have the flange across the top, so I "over-seated" the first one and had to pull it back out. It's kind of a pain to get those flush without the stop flange.

Also, I didn't know I had a steering damper (well, I did, but didn't know it was attached to the drag link) So I got a new one of those too.

There is a youtube video of an E-250 ball joint replacement video that was the closest video I found for a 2wd. Almost all the videos are for 4x4 trucks, and they are not close to the same as far as hub removal and seals and parts.... The only real difference is the tie rods were mounted from the top on the van vs. the bottom of the truck.

Oh, and I ended up with spare parts..... o.O I have 2 of the castellated caps and 2 nuts. I'm really hoping that they were nuts that weren't castellated on the tie rods and the caps supplemented that. But I don't know where else they could have went. All the new parts had new nuts and cotter pins.

I bought a box of cotter pins from Harbor Freight. Highly recommend having extras. I used some.

All in all, it was pretty straight forward, but my parts malfunction really set me back. I also used string to align it myself for temporary toe correction. Worked pretty well. Took it for a test drive and the tires are straighter up, not tired looking anymore... Also, everything in the steering is tighter. HOWEVER, there is still slop in the steering, and I'm sure it's the gear box. Should have bought the red head box and put it in while doing all of this.

Anyway, I retract my Moog parts suck, and rename it Moog parts that fail QC but make it to my doorstep suck... LOL Hope the tips help someone.

 

When I did my research for parts everyone said Moog. In my search Mevotech came up and I ordered wheel bearings for both sides and upper/lower ball joints from Rock Auto. Ended up with the better or best Mevotech with super warranty for less money than going moog. I'm reading Mevotech is a very decent brand made in Canada.

 

now that you are an expert...you want to do another one before you forget your newly acquired skills.