Have a 37 1 1/2 ton and the outer dually has C-34909 and 12 stamped underneath. Anyone have any info on rim width? There are 6.50/7.00 mounted now. Checking to see if I can go 7.50 on this rim?

 

A Budd C-34909 is 20 x 4.33", has an Firestone RI ring/rim design, and is Ford number 81T-1015. It has 8.50" of DRW spacing or, said another way, each wheel has 4.25" offset.

A 7.50-20" tire is listed in Tire and Rim Association references as designed for a 6.00" rim, but I know it is common to mount 7.50" tires on 4.33" rims. My own trucks came to me with 7.50s. The references say a 7.50-20" needs 9.60" of DRW spacing. I'll suggest that at worst you'd need to fit a thin flat spacer between the rear duals if it looks like there could be rubbing of sidewalks. The Tire and Rim Association standards are written assuming a truck is carrying weights approaching its gvwr. No way that will happen anymore on your truck. I think I said before that I'd see what your local tire shop says. Stu

 

No luck finding a tire shop that will work on the rims I have? These aren't the widow makers but one shop claimed the won't work on the solid lock ring style.

Any suggestions welcome.

 

There is a chain operation that recently took ownership of our local big truck shop, and they won't do the RH/RI style rims either. The new owner is Pomps which might be the chain that serves much of WI. I found an independent shop, Larry's in Taylorville, south of here that will do them, no problem. Hopefully guys local to you will speak up with sources. I have a partial matched set of the Goodyear split side rings, but you need a set of six I assume. Nothing says you couldn't take your wheels and tires to Larry's. I've done crazier things. Stu

 

Cut the tire off to see what the rim looks like. Ring came loose easy with a hit with a dead blow hammer. Thanks Stu, hopefully I can find something up here or may need to road trip. I grew up a little north in a sleepy tiny Town of Abington.

Or ​​​​​if I figure how the solid ring comes off without damaging, might do myself wrapping chains around the tire when inflating.

​​​​

 

Best of luck with it. Stu

 

Before I go tearing into this project, hopefully I can find out of any Wisconsin tire shops that will work on these. Otherwise, technical help removing the lock ring without damaging would be welcome.

Removing the rubber this way with a sawsall times five more times will be less than ideal.

Any more technical help is appreciated.

 

This is part of the reason shops don't want to screw with these wheels anymore. Nor train new techs to do the few that are still kept in service. I stopped at a shop out west while on a yard tour last spring to see what they charged to remove tires from some wheels I'd just bought (to free up space in the trailer). IIRC it was about 45 minutes shop time charge each which quickly convinced me I wasn't that interested.

I use the sawzall method too because it's easier and cheaper than a heart attack. Some guys use the torch but I'm always afraid I'll hurt a rim. You've shown yourself that steady pressure on the ring while using the BFH at the back side is the method for removing the rings. Same applies to installing them.

Ideally you want to remove the tires to make sure you don't have inner rust damage that can't be seen from the outside. Moisture gets trapped under the flaps and can let rust do its work over the years. I assume too that you'll want to blast and paint them before installing tires. Taking time with the sawzall and angle grinder on the beads lets you see what's inside and gives piece of mind. Or tells you replacement wheels are needed. One of the wheels I hauled home from Idaho last spring looked good on the outside but turned out to be junk. That's the way it goes. Stu

 

i have one of those solid ring wheel . there should be 2 flat spots like 9 o,clock and 3 o,clock. you inseart a bar at 12 or 6 o,clock and pry it up. i got that wheel in the front of my truck,and it was flat when i bought it. i had it apart to put a patch. hope it helps!

 

I'm lucky in that I have a local tire shop that still work on these rims. Actually, one guy that works there and I don't know what I'll do when he retires.
I had a b*tch of a time removing four tires from their respective rims this summer. The beads were rusted fast to the rims. The rims were junk and I just had to remove the tires so the scrap yard would take the rims. I finally used a sawzall to cut the tire and then a torch to cut the bead.
I would recommend that the OP, if he hasn't already, check with truck stops or big-rig shops to find someone that still works on these old rims.

 

I am looking for at least one Budd C34800 wheel. Would purchase more if in better condition than mine. I also need lock rings. One of my wheels is severely rusted. These wheels are on a 37 Ford 1.5 ton. Thanks Darren 317 501 4521QUOTE=truckdog62563;17362105]A Budd C-34909 is 20 x 4.33", has an Firestone RI ring/rim design, and is Ford number 81T-1015. It has 8.50" of DRW spacing or, said another way, each wheel has 4.25" offset.

A 7.50-20" tire is listed in Tire and Rim Association references as designed for a 6.00" rim, but I know it is common to mount 7.50" tires on 4.33" rims. My own trucks came to me with 7.50s. The references say a 7.50-20" needs 9.60" of DRW spacing. I'll suggest that at worst you'd need to fit a thin flat spacer between the rear duals if it looks like there could be rubbing of sidewalks. The Tire and Rim Association standards are written assuming a truck is carrying weights approaching its gvwr. No way that will happen anymore on your truck. I think I said before that I'd see what your local tire shop says. Stu[/QUOTE]

 

I am looking for at least one Budd C34800 wheel. Would purchase more if in better condition than mine. I also need lock rings. One of my wheels is severely rusted. These wheels are on a 37 Ford 1.5 ton. Thanks Darren 317 501 4521QUOTE=truckdog62563;17362105]A Budd C-34909 is 20 x 4.33", has an Firestone RI ring/rim design, and is Ford number 81T-1015. It has 8.50" of DRW spacing or, said another way, each wheel has 4.25" offset.

A 7.50-20" tire is listed in Tire and Rim Association references as designed for a 6.00" rim, but I know it is common to mount 7.50" tires on 4.33" rims. My own trucks came to me with 7.50s. The references say a 7.50-20" needs 9.60" of DRW spacing. I'll suggest that at worst you'd need to fit a thin flat spacer between the rear duals if it looks like there could be rubbing of sidewalks. The Tire and Rim Association standards are written assuming a truck is carrying weights approaching its gvwr. No way that will happen anymore on your truck. I think I said before that I'd see what your local tire shop says. Stu[/QUOTE]

 

Another Budd 34800!! Makes me crazy. Because I don't have record of that number. This was previously discussed in the below two linked discussion threads. I have lots of similar wheels if you want to take a drive from Indiana to the Springfield, IL, area. Maybe bring one of your wheels to see what I can match, or get you real close. If you want to do that come back to let me know, then I'll call you. Stu

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...6-1-5-ton.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-wheels-3.html

 

Yes. I would like to come have a look. Call me ay 317 758 4161 to discuss our schedules and when we could meet. Thanks Darren

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...6-1-5-ton.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-wheels-3.html[/QUOTE]

 

I'll call tomorrow late morning if that's convenient. Stu