Hello everyone!

Just bought my first truck (and my first diesel.) I work on all my own vehicles, so I've got a lot of learning to do. I bought this truck understanding the injection pump is going to likely fail. It starts perfect when cold, but will not start hot. I think this is "heat soak?" At any rate, when shopping for a new pump, the cheapest option was a Delphi from a local auto parts store. I believe rock auto also has this one.

Is this a good enough replacement ?

I've also got some shifting issues which I believe are related to shifting linkage and bushings. Primarily hard to go into gear while truck is running.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: obligatory picture:

 

Welcome to the site Nick. Looks like a cool project. I'm sure there are folks that can help you with your questions. I'm new to diesels myself.

 

Thanks!

Any chance you are familiar with other common issues for this era of chassis? I have a list of items that should likely be replaced that's growing as we speak. Not exactly sure which issues to leave alone, and which are easy / low cost.

 

I've read that Ford trucks have problems with electrical grounds in general. My truck is a perfect example. The negative battery cables look like a rat gnawed on them for dinner. Often, these poor grounds will cause intermittent problems with lights, accessories and gauges.

 

Speaking from my experience with cheaping out on injection pumps. Do yourself a favor and get a quality rebuild. R&D is probably one of the few reliable rebuilders now a days. Prices are a little higher but there is no doubt about whether you're getting a good or bad one such as you would be if you bought at an auto parts store. Do not cheap out on it. Please, trust me!

 

Only two guys I'm aware of who do quality work on IDI injection pumps and injectors. I have a higher output pump and injectors from Mel at Conestoga Diesel and am very pleased with the service and performance. R&D IDI Performance is owned by a member here and he has a good reputation for quality and customer service, he also has done a lot of research pushing the limits of power from the IDI and offering performance parts for sale.

fuel injection injection pump injection pump rebuilding injection pump repair, Conestoga Diesel Injection Fuel Injection and Turbocharger Rebuilding. The Moose Pump people! Willow Street, PA Home

R&D IDI Performance - Home

 

Yeah; the $790 is the best price I've seen from a reputable rebuilder so far. A different forum member quoted me around $950 with the core since my pump is likely damaged beyond repair with it's heat soak issue? I have no idea either way, but I think I'll give R&D some business very soon. I appreciate the advice, buy once cry once.

I changed the oil today, and it was a couple quarts low. I think the next item on the list is going to be replacing the bushings under the pedals so that I can actually drive without revving the hell out of the engine and grinding those poor gears to death. The master cylinder and slave cylinder appear to be in good health, with no visible leaks. So, the bushings is my final idea. It just seems like there isn't a lot of pedal travel before I'm on the floor, and it REALLY doesn't like to go into gear from a stop. I should probably order a Heim joint instead...

Speaking of pedal issues, my accelerator pedal has two ferrules (What is that called?) on it. Is that normal? the one nearest the end only gives me 1/2 of the throttle range. The second one made it feel like there was actually an engine under there.

While the injector pump is off, I should probably take the two 750 CCA batteries in to be tested. They seem a little more chipper that the truck's actually been running, but starting the truck certainly puts a load on them.

 

As someone currently rebuilding a beat to hell and clapped out ZF5... Please fix your clutch issues. Your need a firewall reinforcement place(firewall fix) and either repair your clutch pedal pin (build up with weld and grind round, or install a new lever/pin) and install a new bushing or replace with a heim joint.

Every grind or crunch is trashing expensive hard parts in the transmission and wearing your synchros if they're not already completely worn out. All this wear also puts metal in the oil which wears the bearings more rapidly. Do yourself a favor and fix it, and if your trans is clapped out, go through it sooner than later before you trash more parts inside.

Whenever you replace the batteries do new hot and ground cables too. Easy to custom make with cable and ends available online or at NAPA. 2/0 for grounds and between batteries and 3/0 to starter. Get stud terminal group 31 batteries, they drop in 80-86 trucks and may require minimal clearancing on 87 and newer trucks. ~$100/ea at tractor supply for more CCA and reserve and have a nice convenient 3/8" stud for tapping power and ground.

 

Thanks for or thanks the heads up! I actually changed the tranny fluid today suspecting the worst but there wasn't a lot visible. I figured t would be really shiny.

I'm guessing while I've got the pedal box out is the best time to add that brace. I'm gonna order one tonight assuming it's not stupid expensive. Is this the pin you're talking about?
I'll see if these are items I can get locally or if I'll end up with another online order. Too bad no one sells the OBS Ford pedal upgrade kit as a whole.

 

Ford Manual Transmission Clutch Pedal Lever & White Idler Shaft Rod Bushing OEM | eBay

If you want a "kit" and don't mind paying $30 more than if you buy a heim joint and some hardware yourself, those are available as well: FORD Clutch Rod, PERMANENT fix/repair!! POWERSTROKE, SUPER DUTY, BRONCO
I suggest if you go the heim joint route to just figure out what hardware you need and save your money.

 

Well, I used a method from another forum to determine whether the issue was the clutch pedal (upstream) or the transmission (downstream). I'm getting less than half an inch of fork movement, so my assumption is that the primary issue is upstream with the clutch pedal / linkage slop.

Post # 23 here: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...67/index2.html

Looking for a good guide to see exactly what I need going forward; my standard tool selection is quite bare, as everything I owned prior has been foreign. While I'm at it, I'm gonna buy a bottle jack and 6 ton stands.

Edit: Talk to text does not work on my phone...

 

Harbor Freight is your friend.

Seriously - if you have one in your area, it's definitely worth going. The hand tools are pretty decent, the prices are cheap, and you can amass quite a selection for not too much money.

And the 'anytime replacement' warranty on any "pittsburgh pro" hand tools is totally nice - like Sears used to do.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...set-63461.html
This set(Make sure to find a coupon for it - Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons is great for coupons) is my go-to set of sockets. I use it *all the time*. In the last few years, I've lost a couple of tools, broken *no* sockets and broke the 3/8 ratchet by using it as back stop for a 600ft-lb impact wrench getting a bolt off... which they replaced for free anyway.

I use the sockets with my DeWalt 20v brushless Impact driver(also a seriously important tool) and use them a *lot*. Again, no failures.

About the only tool I've killed from HF is the T45 Torx bits, when taking out those seat-belt bolts on cars. Combined with a DeWalt 20V impact wrench putting out a *lot* of torque, I've broken those once or twice... but that's just about what you can expect putting so much torque into a small fastener(That impact wrench can easily break 1/2" bolts right off).

 

As far as where to buy the heim joint, is that something that a brick and mortar store would have? I'm not opposed to building the kit up myself to save some money.

The only place I was able to find the reinforcement plate was here: firewall fix

It specifically says it does not fit 1992+ trucks. What are my options?

 

Very nice! Sadly my closest store is around an hour away. I'm getting ready to get in the car and head there though. Can't continue to work on the truck without proper tools, especially jack/stands when I start taking wheels off.

You don't use impact specific sockets with your impact??

I got spoiled with a reaction-less impact ratchet on a brake job and I think I'm going to invest in a air compressor soon. That thing ruined me.

 

Yes and no.
For my 1/2" impact(I have both the HF Earthquake air one and a DeWalt 20V I just got recently that does 90% of what the Earthquake does), I tend to use impact sockets.
I have a set of deep-well HF impact sockets, both metric and standard. Those are very useful.

For my 1/4" Dewalt impact driver, I just use regular sockets. It has some torque, but not a massive amount - reefing on a 3/8 ratchet will produce more torque.

Once or twice I've broken the HF 1/4-hex-shank to socket square drive adaptors... it just broke after hammering away at a bolt for a good 30 seconds. Still, with how much I use it, that's a pretty good value overall(at $5 for the set).


Looking around, are you talking about something like this?
Great deal on Ingersoll-Rand - 2015MAX at ToolTopia.com

I'm not sure... I use my little DeWalt impact driver(1/4 hex shank) for all of that. It's more bulky, though... but doesn't require an air supply(and a single battery charge can last me days).