Choosing a generator...
With a little care depending on location there are always better places than others to site the generator to minimize noise pollution. Someone could make a nice little cottage industry rigging up noise reduction for them. Some kind of extension exhaust/hose maybe running through water, baffles etc.
There are a lot of aftermarket accessories for these. One of the problems with the portable generators is they can become just a little bit too portable, and thieves will cruise campgrounds to pilfer valuables and gear. Generators are a target. I use a length of heavy chain and installed the reinforced handle, then lock it around a tree, truck axle, etc. Won't stop a determined thief but will keep the casual crooks from simply walking away with it.
In general, lower priced generators do not have a reputation of a long life. One possible way to cut the purchase price is to watch Craigs for nearby listings of used units.
To the original question about a dual usage generator (home and RV), yes it is possible. *BUT* you need to fully understand the load limits and work within them. As an example, when big storms come through, sometimes it is days until we get utility power back. Had a 3KW (3,500 surge) and it handled the home just fine, but we also did not expect hot water as the 4,500W electric DHW was too much for the unit. In the summer, the 3KW did manage a window air conditioner, a couple of fridges, all the lights, and electronics. In the winter, there was less load as the heat came from fuel.
Two big lessons learned for home use (from research and not experience):
- Get an automatic transfer switch for the home hook-up. Very bad things happen when the utility power returns and the generator has a direct connection to the grid while also supplying power (Hint: think *BOOM*!). Also, not a good thing for anybody working on the lines near your home if the generator is able to supply power back to the grid.
- Get a generator that is capable of 110 / 220, connect it to a 50Amp outlet (behind a transfer switch) at the main breaker box, and put the generator in 220V mode. Reasoning is that no matter what the wattage size generator, it will supply power to the whole home and not just half. Also, have yet to see a generator manual where (buried in the disclaimers) there is not a comment that the only way to get full potential out of the unit is to use the 220V outlet. A more simplified explanation of why to get a 110 / 220 unit is that when looking at the main breaker box, chances are very good that the breaker box has two columns and a near even loading of breakers in each column. Each side needs 110 volts, so the whole box actually needs 220. This is where the need for a 50Amp / 220V outlet comes to play; it will provide 110V to each side of the box in addition to any 220V appliances that you can / want to use (presuming the generator can handle the load). When using the generator for the RV, put it in 110V mode and get a pigtail for the 220V outlet. Also, naturally, using the 50 Amp outlet at the main breaker box presumes that the generator is at or under this rating.
Definitely agree with comments about getting a generator with low DB's and their more desirable effect on the surrounding residents. Another reason for a quiet generator is that when the whole area lacks utility power, a loud unit advertises 'come-get-me' to those lacking a generator.
Bonus on the list is something CARB compliant as we all have to breathe the results

If in doubt about any of this, highly recommend working with a certified electrician and avoid DIY'ing
Can't see any reason to ditch that, just to pick up another 800 running watts. The weight difference is substantial
I haven't measured it, but I'm pretty sure the dB stats are BS. The Honda is quiet-er than the competition but let's be clear, they are all loud as hell. The RPM has a lot to do with it, the Honda is less objectionable than some of the cheap units.
For brute force wattage, one of the cheap your-neighbors-will-hate-you models might be the way to go. Use propane, then there's no worries about gasoline fuel storage or stablizers. The prices are pretty reasonable for a whole house unit. Spend the money saved on professional installation of the isolation box and the rest of it at the service box and breaker panel.
add the white hard Styrofoam insulation. (home depot).. 1 or 2 inch.. plywood will do little. I used the 2 inch...
I know..
<< Edit >> just seen you said 4 sided... you need cross flow... lots of cross flow.. air cooled engine..
If you need more capacity I'd think you'd want to make a bigger jump than just 800 watts. Hair dryer, coffee pot, frying pan etc usually run about 1500 watts each iirc.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Last edited by HRTKD; Jul 25, 2017 at 03:28 PM. Reason: spelling, it gets me every time!
If you need more capacity I'd think you'd want to make a bigger jump than just 800 watts. Hair dryer, coffee pot, frying pan etc usually run about 1500 watts each iirc.
However, I bought a 5500 watt Champion about 6 years ago. I used it with the trailer twice and about 6 times with the house. It ran pretty much 10 days straight during the aftermath of Sandy. So it was definitely worth its salt.
Regarding what I opine as less stellar makes of generators, on occasion I had the opportunity to check voltage output and for some (not all), they would put out about 120 out of the box and immediately drop to barely over 100 with a load. Just not very stable power sources.
Again my two cents, but even with generators, you really do get what you pay for. My 2400 Yamaha still starts the first pull every time and is going strong after 12+ years.

Steve
Im50Fast, are you looking for an on-board or portable generator?








