Carb to EFI conversion
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 195
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From: Chicago, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
I i did an extensive search on converting a carb'd engine to EFI and got nothing. can anyone point me to an article on that or give me things to watch out for? i pretty much know howto, but what I do worry about is dash gauges, and intake..
anything else i should look for?
or can anyone give me an idea why I have so much carb trouble when the engine is cold now that I timed the engine right? once she warms up, she's fine.. but when she's cold she wont idle smooth and sometimes die out at stops.. flooded..
anything else i should look for?
or can anyone give me an idea why I have so much carb trouble when the engine is cold now that I timed the engine right? once she warms up, she's fine.. but when she's cold she wont idle smooth and sometimes die out at stops.. flooded..
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,011
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From: South Dakota
Carb to EFI conversion
I don't know of an article to change from carb to fuel on a six. Did read about doing it on a 302. Basically you would need a donor vehicle and swap out everything from fuel pump, lines, wires to computer, intake, the works. Alot of work.
As far as a carb running rich cold and good warm, if all your vacuum lines are in good shape and conected, then it sounds like to much choke. This could be from a misadjusted choke to one getting bad. I would give the carb a thorough cleaning including poping the cover off the choke and clean the interior. Adjust it to specs including fast idle. Also check your float level. If it is off a little this could result in to much fuel.
And you could also have a leak in the top carb gasket, which under the higher vacuum draw of being in choke could pull in to much fuel.
Me, I would tweak on the carb. I like the cold weather starting of a fuelie, but I had a '66 with a manual choke that was great to start warm or cold. And this was with the oil bath cleaner. Ran a paper element for one week, threw it away. The '66 and I were happier with the oil bath. But talk about a bear cat to clean.
As far as a carb running rich cold and good warm, if all your vacuum lines are in good shape and conected, then it sounds like to much choke. This could be from a misadjusted choke to one getting bad. I would give the carb a thorough cleaning including poping the cover off the choke and clean the interior. Adjust it to specs including fast idle. Also check your float level. If it is off a little this could result in to much fuel.
And you could also have a leak in the top carb gasket, which under the higher vacuum draw of being in choke could pull in to much fuel.
Me, I would tweak on the carb. I like the cold weather starting of a fuelie, but I had a '66 with a manual choke that was great to start warm or cold. And this was with the oil bath cleaner. Ran a paper element for one week, threw it away. The '66 and I were happier with the oil bath. But talk about a bear cat to clean.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 195
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From: Chicago, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
man i overlooked the vac lines! i rebuilt the carb not too long ago so the float, and gaskets are good, but i did over look vac lines! thanks! i do wanna stick with carb because its cheaper and i just rebuilt the carb, but i have 7 fuelie cars so i'm too used to fuelie
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,011
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From: South Dakota
Carb to EFI conversion
Good luck to you, me I had a '66 couple of years ago. Man I miss that truck. Manual everything including a 4-speed. Next year I'm getting another one, 'course I'm one of the few that likes to shift and replacing a clutch is easier and cheaper than rebuilding any AOD type trans.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 195
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From: Chicago, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
hrm.. vac lines are all good.. i think the choke is dead so thats going to be replaced. I fired her up today and she was running like crap even when warm.. so I opened the idle mix screw more and she's runing smoother..
anyone know how many turns should the idle mix screw be from fully closed?
also, I have the feedback carb, so is there anything else I should look for?
anyone know how many turns should the idle mix screw be from fully closed?
also, I have the feedback carb, so is there anything else I should look for?
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3
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From: Bucks County
Carb to EFI conversion
Hey cool a fellow friend from cvn
I have a 1984 F150 with the 300 and the same stupid feedback carb. I found that almost all my rough running was due to a sucked in intake manifold gasket. I did all that you are doing with no luck and became frustrated. Try this it sounds crazy but get a propane torch and use it to sniff around the running engine. The propane will make the engine run smooth if you find a leak. Mine was at the #1 cylinder intake so it did not take long. As far as the setting of the idle screw goes i moved mine all the way out before the fix but moved it in 2 turns after i fixed my intake manifold. 
I have a 1984 F150 with the 300 and the same stupid feedback carb. I found that almost all my rough running was due to a sucked in intake manifold gasket. I did all that you are doing with no luck and became frustrated. Try this it sounds crazy but get a propane torch and use it to sniff around the running engine. The propane will make the engine run smooth if you find a leak. Mine was at the #1 cylinder intake so it did not take long. As far as the setting of the idle screw goes i moved mine all the way out before the fix but moved it in 2 turns after i fixed my intake manifold.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 195
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From: Chicago, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
mannn that sounds logical! i think I will try that.. I was thinking also spraying down with carb cleaner, but then i realized the EXHAUST manifold is right below it.. i dont want a campfire just yet.. i dont have enough money for the marshmellows.. but i will definetley try that, thanks!
BTW whats your handle on CVN?
BTW whats your handle on CVN?
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New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County
Carb to EFI conversion
I figure that propane is not as dangerous, at least you can contain it
my handle on cvn is 99brazpi I see you on there, and when i signed up a few days ago i saw it here. i wonder how many others are here
Good luck with your findings I was amazed at how the engine ran better as soon as i fixed it.
my handle on cvn is 99brazpi I see you on there, and when i signed up a few days ago i saw it here. i wonder how many others are here
Good luck with your findings I was amazed at how the engine ran better as soon as i fixed it.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Chicago, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
OK so now i will need to convert to EFI. I took out my carb because i needed to install it on the ranger that someone whats to buy from me. The carb on that went sour even tho it didnt even have not even 50 miles since it was last rebuilt. i'm going to replace the float since i orderd it already and give it a whirl on my f-150 and see what happens.. but because i need to replace the intake gasket, i may as well go all out and convert to EFI. i dont want a big headache for winter..
anyway theres an unlimited supply of f-series at a local junkyard so i can pretty much get evereything ( i already have a fuel pump, and because my carb wwas feedbacked, i already have installed a Coolant temp sensor, MAP, 02 (although its a 1-wire) which are critical.
my question though is, would there be any problems as far as hooking up to the exisitng wiring harness? the gauges i know can still stay active because the sending units will still be connected..
anyway theres an unlimited supply of f-series at a local junkyard so i can pretty much get evereything ( i already have a fuel pump, and because my carb wwas feedbacked, i already have installed a Coolant temp sensor, MAP, 02 (although its a 1-wire) which are critical.
my question though is, would there be any problems as far as hooking up to the exisitng wiring harness? the gauges i know can still stay active because the sending units will still be connected..
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 401
Likes: 9
From: Brighton, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
Have you considered the trans not shifting properly? I hope it is worth it, I have been told by a # of folks that EFI gets worse mpg than carberated. I am not real happy with what I get on my '96 with a 4.9L and a 5 speed. My old 300 with the 4 speed OD got me 20 all the time and now I am lucky to get 15. I am in NW Indiana so we have the same climate. I have a 300-6 on the classifieds complete with a 86 carb on it, runs perfect if interested.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 195
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From: Chicago, IL
Carb to EFI conversion
i'm not concerned about gas mileage.. more cocerned about winter drivability since i vowed not to use my CrownVic this winter. also Like i stated, i no longer even have a carb.. i had to take it off and throw it on my 2.0L ranger because the carb on that (which was rebuilt by a pro) completley went bad.. i replaced the float and rebuilt it again myself and still no-go. it kept dumping too much gas... only way to keep it alive was to remove the brake booster hose and cause a nasty vac leak.
but anyway trans is definetley out of the question. its a 3=speed c-6.. it doesnt shift very smooth, but it does shift and is completley unrelated with any of my questions.
but anyway trans is definetley out of the question. its a 3=speed c-6.. it doesnt shift very smooth, but it does shift and is completley unrelated with any of my questions.
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Senior User
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From: Chicago, IL
who says a kid cant do tricks? this 21-year-old chicagoan can..
this was before the conversion..
parts i had to pickup..
(not pictured: ECM, fuel system, haynes manual)
result after alot of thinking, frurstration, rigging, sweat, weld, and $195:
she runs.. better than expected in fact.. just need to work out some leaking fuel, flooding and timing. also need to weld back the exhaust cause its about as loud as a top-fuel dragster..
this was before the conversion..
parts i had to pickup..
(not pictured: ECM, fuel system, haynes manual)
result after alot of thinking, frurstration, rigging, sweat, weld, and $195:
she runs.. better than expected in fact.. just need to work out some leaking fuel, flooding and timing. also need to weld back the exhaust cause its about as loud as a top-fuel dragster..
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