my 86 f150 carbed 302 was running fine the other day but now everytime it gets up to operating temperature she stalls out and dies. when i go to turn her over she cranks a few times and the starter solendoid begins to smoke. (starter solenoid and battery cable is bad) I was just wondering if the solenoid could effect the trucks running ability???

1986 f150
EFI-Carb swap done in 14
motorcraft carb
dual tank
manual 4x4

 

Yes, and no. The solenoid can't do that since it is passive while the engine is running. However, the connections to the solenoid can certainly do that. The engine will absolutely not run with the battery disconnected, and bad connections can basically cause the battery to be disconnected.

Fix your cabling, including the ground side, and see if that doesn't fix both the solenoid as well as the engine.

 

Those symptoms sound like the ignition module is going bad.

Can you start the engine back up normally after it has cooled down?

 

Gary thanks for the info thats my next obj haha and lariat yeah once it cools back down itll start right back up like nothing happened. what would the ignition module look like?

 

oh one more question the cable that runs from my solenoid all the way down to my starter seems pretty ugly and isnt really secured im worried it might be burned up midway down any idea what size i should replace it with does 4ga wire seem too much or not enough.

 

For computer-controlled models with TFI ignition, the ignition module will be bolted on the side of the distributor.

For models without an engine computer and Dura Spark ignition, the ignition module will be bolted to the driver's side fender apron.

 

If it's a DSII...it looks like this...

 

I wouldn't worry about the ignition module until you fix the battery cables. They have to be fixed and might solve the problem.

As for how big, I'd go to #2 but #4 would probably work. However, don't forget the ground. That should run from the battery to the front corner of the engine, and then to the frame. Or, it might be two pieces - one from the battery to the engine and one from the engine to the frame. In any event, grounds are as important as the positive cables.

 

I already replaced the ground with a #2 but the old on was only grounded to the front corner of the engine nothing else. Should i run another ground from the battery to the frame then?

 

Yes. The factory ran a ground to the frame for a reason. The engine and transmission are sitting on rubber isolators, aka mounts, so they do not ground reliably to the frame. But the lights, voltage regulator, and many other things require a good ground and they get them via the frame.

 

ohhhh haha ok so i should run an eye connector from the battery cable to the frame as well ill do that and see how she goes then

 

ok so I finally rebuilt the carb, i also have replaced the plugs, wires, all the battery cables, dist cap, the battery, starter solenoid, solenoid to starter wire, and still wont stay running longer then about a minute. I got her started with a little gas and then she died and wont start again.....

 

Now you are ready to move on to Plan B. When it won't run pull a plug wire, put an old plug in it, hold that to the block, and turn it over. Do you have spark?

 

OK I'll try that tomorrow when I get back up to the shop

 

By the way, I'm not going over to a new thread. I'll stay here, so if you want my help come back here.