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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Lokar Throttle Cable mod

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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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grantorinosport
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Lokar Throttle Cable mod

On my 71 F-250 I had upgraded the carb to an Edelbrock 1406 some time ago. I modified the throttle linkage and got rid of the trapezoid thing and made a custom rod to fit the install.

It works, but the pedal is a little high. Also I never put the kickdown back on (I have the Lokar kickdown kit, just haven't installed yet). After living with this for years, and having just driven the truck across the state a couple of times, I've had it and need to improve the situation.

I want to install the kickdown of course (did that on my Torino, it's a pretty easy mod) but I also would like to go to an improved throttle cable assembly.

My question: Has anyone added a Lokar throttle cable to their truck? If so, how did you do it, and do you have pictures to guide me? I am sure many have done it, and I tried to poke around here a bit with no success.

I know a 78-79 install would be an improvement over the 67-72 setup, but if possible I'd just like to go full cable. The $80 or whatever the Lokar kit would cost is well worth the improvement. My poor foot gets tired on long trips!!!
 
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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 03:50 PM
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Did you mount your custom rod to the small hole on the carb or to that big hole with a grommet in it? Mounting the custom rod closer to the pivot point will shorten the gas pedal travel. A longer rod will lower the gas pedal. But you might not get full throttle. Maybe fab a custom bracket for the side of the carb to mount the rod closer to the pivot point.
For the kick down rod, Holley makes a extension for it. Meant for when one converts from a 2V to 4V carb. Part number 20-41.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 01:13 PM
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Attached are photos of what I did on mine for the throttle rod. I used the existing pedal and the bracket on the firewall, then made a custom rod from the firewall bracket to the carb mount.

It works, but honestly it is not optimum. The pedal sits too high, and if I shorten the rod much more than I don't get full travel. Also, the rod will flex a bit which is not desired during higher pedal travel when it is likely to flex and hence not provide the full desired input to the carb. Obviously a larger diameter rod would be a solution to that, however getting a larger diameter rod and machining down the ends is not something I have the capability to do.

Which is why I was seeking an easy Lokar cable mod, perhaps from the firewall bracket to the carb? I have to imagine someone has done that before and been successful?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 02:36 PM
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IMHO a cable mod would solve your flex concern but not the high pedal. I think the high pedal is built in to the accelerator pedal's bellcrank. The ratios of pivot (mount bracket) to pedal and pivot to linkage end. Remember Ford designed the ratio in the bellcrank with the trapeze in mind. Seems to me that if one were to lengthen the carb linkage end of the bellcrank this would create more carb travel with less pedal travel. So with a longer rod one could set the pedal closer to the floor but still get full pedal travel because we changed the ratio. You could test this theory with a simple straight bracket and an adjustable rod. I know you have a one piece rod but maybe you can use something temporarily like a coat hanger. I see your bellcrank has two holes in it. Mount a straight bracket to it with say, 6 holes in it. The bottom two holes bolt to the two holes in the bellcrank. The top four holes are for experimenting which one the carb rod should go in to for optimum pedal to floor and full carb travel. When trying the different holes one would prolly also have to change the length of the rod to set the pedal lower. Put something like a brick on the gas pedal to hold it to the floor. Take the return spring off the carb. Hold the carb at full throttle and measure the distance for the perfect rod length with each hole.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2017 | 11:05 PM
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Is it possible (and recommended) to use the trapezoid mechanism with an aftermarket carb?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by grantorinosport
On my 71 F-250 I had upgraded the carb to an Edelbrock 1406 some time ago. I modified the throttle linkage and got rid of the trapezoid thing and made a custom rod to fit the install.

It works, but the pedal is a little high. Also I never put the kickdown back on (I have the Lokar kickdown kit, just haven't installed yet). After living with this for years, and having just driven the truck across the state a couple of times, I've had it and need to improve the situation.

I want to install the kickdown of course (did that on my Torino, it's a pretty easy mod) but I also would like to go to an improved throttle cable assembly.

My question: Has anyone added a Lokar throttle cable to their truck? If so, how did you do it, and do you have pictures to guide me? I am sure many have done it, and I tried to poke around here a bit with no success.

I know a 78-79 install would be an improvement over the 67-72 setup, but if possible I'd just like to go full cable. The $80 or whatever the Lokar kit would cost is well worth the improvement. My poor foot gets tired on long trips!!!
I'd think a cruise control unit would be a better investment for the long run time. Then just use the later dent carb linkage.
Orich
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by grantorinosport
Is it possible (and recommended) to use the trapezoid mechanism with an aftermarket carb?
I never thought of it. Most guys take them off. You could try it if you still have yours.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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I'm thinking the 78-79 style mod using the threaded shaft along with pivot ends from McMaster-Carr might be worth a try? I found a pic earlier today from an older post of HioSilver or UltraRanger that looked very do-able, and would bypass a Lokar kick down install.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 11:05 AM
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This is what I did after doing some shopping at Ace H*rdware. The ball ends, stick of "all thread", 2-nuts to lock the ball ends to the rod, and a stick of hollow aluminum tubing cut to fit too cover the all thread. My pedal is a bit high. But like I said, I think that is built in to the length ratio of the gas pedal bellcrank. Lengthening it and adjusting the bellcrank to carb rod might lower the pedal and still give full throttle. Also notice I put the return spring on the firewall side of the rod. Not at the carb. This keeps tension off the throttle shaft in the carb.
 
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