When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I originally posted this in the carb forum - no response. The autolite 2 bbl on my 72 F100/390/C6 started leaking real bad. Turns out that one of the screws that holds the Acc. pump cover/assy on had an oversize screw (apparantly the threads had been stripped) and the float housing is cracked. So...I found a Holley 2300 which is a List 8226 (Ford OEM on 75 F100 w/ a 302 - according to Holley Tech Support). The guy I got iy from had rejetted for a 390 and was running when he swapped the manifold for a 4 bbl. I got the carb on-line. Problem is the linkage on my 72 will not work with this carb. I even tried removing the stock linkage and rinning a short piece of all-thread from the pedal rod to the carb...geometry is all wrong. Anybody have any ideas? The way I see it I can do 3 things...1) Get another Autolite 2100, 2) Since I got the Holley cheap I can use it as a core on a model that will work w/ the 72 (???) 3) Make/buy some sort of linkage that will work. I did mount the carb and the truck seems to run OK with it (as long as I dork with the throttle by hand). The motor had much better throttle response with the Holley than the Autolite.
I run straight rods on all my stuff and it seems to work fine. I even did it on my AUtolite 2bbl until I finall threw it away and put a Holley 4bbl on it.
All Holleys have pretty much the same linkage arm on them. I would assume that you should be able to hook it direct with no problem.
I usually set the accel. pedal on floor, then open carb to WOT and set the length. That way you can not over pull it. It sometimes makes the pedal a bit higher than with factory linkage, but it works for me.
Thanks Larry - here is what I have figured out so far. I did as you suggested - ran a rod from the pedal rod to the carb actuator arm. .. looks like the pedal rod is a little too short so that when the rod is attached it is lower on the pedal rod end than the carb end. since the rod has to push the carb actuator forward it binds trying to overcome the acute angle (if that makes any sense). I think that if I lengthen the pedal rod so the linkage rod is not at such an "uphill" angle I might have better luck. I will try it this weekend.
I had to tear out my old linkage(who came up with such a complicated way to attach a pedal to the carb,I don't know) Got myself a bucket handle, and with a little bend here and some flattening and drilling there, a nice straight shot. Works great too