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First, I'd yank the plugs....then get a 15/16" 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar. Socket goes on the crank nut behind the pulley/harmonic balancer. CW will keep the nut on whilst turning, CCW will loosen it.
If the engine turned over before yanking it, no problem....have at it. If it didn't, a little Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug hole would help.
If yer talkin' about flipping the engine itself 180*, there's a pin on the back where the engine mounts...pull it out and use the bar to turn it.
If you're rotating the engine on the stand, be careful it doesn't get away from you. My 460 was very hard to rotate, until it got to the spot where it wasn't. Flipped over quickly and caught my hand in the angle support bracket. Took a big chunk out of my finger, hurt like hell, and left blood all over the engine and driveway.
If you're just trying to turn the crank, a 15/16 socket on a breaker bar...
If you're rotating the engine on the stand, be careful it doesn't get away from you. My 460 was very hard to rotate, until it got to the spot where it wasn't. Flipped over quickly and caught my hand in the angle support bracket. Took a big chunk out of my finger, hurt like hell, and left blood all over the engine and driveway
If your talking bout rotating the engine on the stand like PB explained, I highly recommend having a second person at the front of the block to control the rotation, cuz when she lets loose SHE lets loose Mine got away from me and I was then chasing lifters in a frenzy as they rolled around my shop floor...... A second person can help manage the front while you turn the handle on the back and get it to the next pin hole ....
Engine's on an engine stand and I need to turn it over. How do I go about doing it??
Assuming that the engine is out and on a stand because you want to rebuild it or see of it is worth rebuilding, I'd recommend draining the oil and removing all accessories, the intake manifold, lifters and heads before rotating the engine on the stand such that the oil pan is pointing upwards. At that point you can more easily and safely loosen the stop nut or stop pin on the stand and rotate it using the rotation bar. The engine stand tube should have been well greased ahead of time but, if not, you may have to use a cheater in the form of a pipe that extends the leverage of the rotation bar on the stand. Finally, secure this new position with the stop nut or stop pin before attempting to do anything else such as removing the oil pan. Safety first.
If you're rotating the engine on the stand, be careful it doesn't get away from you. My 460 was very hard to rotate, until it got to the spot where it wasn't. Flipped over quickly and caught my hand in the angle support bracket. Took a big chunk out of my finger, hurt like hell, and left blood all over the engine and driveway.
If you're just trying to turn the crank, a 15/16 socket on a breaker bar...
X2! I had a 360 flip an engine stand when I started to turn it. Luckily I got out with out losing some skin. If you want to work on a big block on a stand take the intake and heads off first...then it should rotate easily.
Put a ratchet strap on the handle down to the frame before pulling the pin to hold the tension and then you can slowly roll it, or use a cheater bar on the handle. I knew a guy that mounted a small disk brake setup on he back of a stand with a motorcycle master and handle. Could roll it with one hand and control it with the other, it was pretty cool. He was rebuilding motors all the time, so it made sense.
Thanks for the input. For sure that thing is one heavy engine. It just looks heavy.
The engine stand is a very stable, wide base, home-made deal and it has handled a 390 very easily but still I'm gonna be very cautious with this.
Thanks again for making sure I understand the risks involved. It's appreciated.