My 2010 had the bubbling over the passenger side rear wheel, bought a patch panel and found someone to fix it ($800.00). Doesn't seem like they should rust this quickly, but what are you gonna do. I am sure it will continue to rust in other places, who knows??

 

Oh definitely have nothing against Toyotas they run for ever and what they did when there frames failed they bought back or replace them. They stand behind their trucks. If only they made a 3/4 ton or one ton truck I would own in a second

 

Class 8 trucks have been using aluminum bodies on steel frames for forty years, at least, and there are aluminum B52s built in the fifties still flying, some stationed in ocean climates.

 

and likewise I like my Super Duty better than my Tacoma. what infuriates me is the blatant thoughtlessness about basic corrosion prevention in the design and the fact that it gets to the larger issue of asking the question: if Ford won't spend a few coppers on really basic simple measures, what else did they skip in our trucks?

 

and I never said it couldn't be done, but I have my doubts about Ford being able to do it in their current engineering culture of designing to the knife's edge of what's acceptable. it's not about the materials science, it's about the company leadership.

 

What does everyone think about line-x the fender wells and down the rockers? I just bought a 2014 f250 and i really don't want the rust to start, always been a gm owner first ford truck iv bought.

 

That will help keep the paint from getting chipped off and causing surface rust but it will not fix the major issues. The fenders and rockers rust from the inside out.

Best thing you can do is buy a gallon of fluid film and a couple aerosol cans of it and start coating things. I like to soak the foam above the rear wheel wells which should slow down the rust, best thing would be to pull the foam out but then you have to find something to fill the crevice in so it doesn't fill with dirt. As for the rockers, pull the rubber plugs off then take the aerosol can of fluid film and coat everything really good. I found a 15" extension hose with a 360* tip that does a really nice job of getting everything coated.

I reapply fluid film twice a year, once in the spring after the salt is washed off the roads and again in the fall before it gets cold. I spray it on heavy then go down a gravel road to get it covered with dust to help hold it in place.

MY truck is always a grimy mess underneath but it is rust free underneath after 4 winters. There is not a spec of rust anywhere on the underside of the body or frame, even the spot welds are clean. There is some surface rust on the axles and steering box but I didn't coat the axles the first two winters and the steering boxes seem to come from the factory rusted. I also tape off any holes underneath that I feel are not needed.

My wife's F150 has gotten the same treatment since new and after 5 winters it's just as clean as mine. Her truck also sees a lot more salty roads than mine.

 

sweet ill get some of that stuff, thinking if i pull that foam crap out and coat it with spray in bed liner it may work

 

don't forget to spray inside the doors. The seam at the bottom of the doors is prone to rusting. I like to spray fluid film inside the door and let it run down into the seam and them I will spray some externally on the seam. I will pull the door panel off to do this but if you have the extension hose you can do a pretty good job by just sticking it in through the drain holes.

 

2012 F250 bubbling starting driver's side rear:

 

Yous do realize aluminum has been used on the cabs or semi trucks for how many years now with I'll side effects from steel bolts holding parts together. Also aluminum beds are used on duno truck trailers etc again with nonilknside effects from steel fasteners or sitting on steel frames

 

and just where are all the aluminum bodied Jeeps from the 1960's

there bodies turned to powder many years ago..

just like steel .. returns back to basic element.

iron oxide, aluminum oxide.
History my Friend.

 

I guess no one has pulled the rubber strip above the doors on crew cabs and looked behind it. OR, At the door bottoms where the skin wraps back around. I have. I have a rust hole the size of a quarter RIGHT under the roof fold down line above the tack welds seam on rear right side and surface rust spots all along both sides. And its probably worse than what a wire brush took out..... Oh, The door bottoms, Right. They have a couple drain holes. BUT, They blocked them with MORE rubber stripping Holding dirt and water in just like above the doors. When I pulled both, MY GOD! The amount of dirt, well mud, that came out was incredible! I still need to pull the back window and windshield to get all the cleaned out. Anytime I use the pressure washer at work, Water is shot INSIDE the truck. Not alot, And I don't have wet floors when it rains, But its on the glass. The ONLY body shop that does true body repair, not bondo and parts swapping, Said I was looking at 3K to fix the hole. Lets not forget how the paint comes off so easy too. Or the rust lines at the front of the bed on the chassis..... Ford will NEVER learn. I have two bricknose trucks with THE SAME PROBLEMS, RUST!
So, FYI, TEXAS TRUCKS DO RUST! DON'T BE FOOLED WHEN PEOPLE USE THAT AS A SELLING POINT!
Can ya' tell I'm mad? Lol.

 

you should see the damage my motorcycle received with just One winter in South Texas..... 50 plus miles in-land...

all the polished aluminum is pitted.. from 4 months down there.
almost as bad as N E Ohio.

 

Love bugs?