Yep! I'll upload pics tonight. Pulley bearing was completely DESTROYED!

It is fixed... Thank you for all the help

 

In parts...what did this repair cost?

 

$89 but had $15 off $60 or more for Autozone in email, so about $75 + tx

More info in a bit when I get back to my computer

 

Some pics of the carnage. Can you spot the problem in the first 3 pics?





If you missed it, look again- focus on the center hub and the distance between the pulley in the center area...




A handful of bearings fell to the ground upon removal, but it wasn't "full" anyways

We had to remove the mounting bolts for the coolant reservoir as shown in Sous' linked video, then remove the 4 A/C compressor mounting bolts to pivot it upwards, blocked with a crowbar, so that I could get a 3 jaw pulley remover on it.

Had to do the pulley first, then the clutch.

In order to install, there were some scrape marks on the shaft that I scraped so they didn't continue digging in, and it was NOT going on.

A new friend suggested we either heat one side or cool the other. He said he's done them in the freezer when the shaft was removed. (Yes, I DID ask him "how big" his freezer is- not big enough for the Excursion )

So I had a can of compressed air I was blowing out the dust from the old clutch. I turned it upside down and let a little air out at a time so it dripped liquid CO2 onto the shaft until it turned frosty and stayed frosty.

When I used up all the air, I grabbed the clutch and pounded it on with minimal force

I reinstalled the clutch, checked the clearance with my .035 spark plug gap tool (smallest I had) with the thickest shim. Too big, probably .040.

Checked with no shim, way too small.

Eventually settled on one of the middle thickness shims that seemed to be the right size. Tightened up, tested with engine off via pressing the A/C button with the key on/engine off.

I took a video, but not sure if/when I can get that up to Youtube until I get back.

It was definitely a "Make you walk" situation brewing....

Thanks again for all the input, tips, info, suggestions, etc

You guys ROCK!

 

So, in order to remove and mount the new clutch assembly, you used a pulley puller with the compressor loose and at an upward angle. Then, for re-installation you froze the mounting point and the pulley went on fairly easy with a rubber mallet of some sort pushing it on?

Also, did the coil come with the kit or did you reuse the original?

 

I used a ball pin hammer to install the pulley. It is fairly tight, a rubber mallet wouldn't work.

I also used it to install the coil, but only very lightly tapping on the inside ring all around the circle to keep it straight.

The pulley was quite stubborn and you must be careful to install it straight and keep checking to make sure it spins.

I started with a socket that matched the bearing race, but no luck. Ended up smacking the friction face until the C-clip groove was fully cleared.

Don't forget the remove the C-Clip before pulling on the pulley!

There is also some kind of fiber cone inside the splined shaft. It was coming out as I sprayed the compressed air (normal way, not liquid), but I reinstalled it.

Here is a pic:




Yes, the kit came with the coil, plugged right in. Here's a screenshot of the part.

 

I think now that the compressor pulley will turn properly, the on/off is low freon. I don't think it could pull enough in when I tried before leaving home last week.

It was a LONG and HOT about 6 hrs of 8hr trip

I'll look for freon and try it before the very long 16-19hrs return trip.

 

Still on our trip, A/C clutch cycles rapidly, so doesn't work. Maybe coincidence, but seems okay up to about 85F or when truck engine is cool.

After an hour of towing (over 9hrs at once), A/C stopped blowing cool, so at our next stop I popped the hood and saw what the clutch was doing.

If I buy (really overpriced) cans of R134a, I just connect the can to low side, run the A/C 10 mins or so on high, open the valve on the can and let it draw in? Maybe upside down since it seems likely it will need at least a can if it is low enough to trip the low pressure, but not sure if adding liquid will slug the compressor.

On other vehicles I wanted to "help" the A/C with a can, I started with the can upright and would occasionally invert it a few seconds. Much more than that and the cheap hose valves would freeze.

Best tips for adding freon to our Superduty trucks? With NO A/C Tools, other than a can and a hose?

Thanks!

 

I'm not far ahead of you on my A/C experience but...last year I got a can at Pep Boys (all others probably sell it too) that has a gauge on it with marks on what it should read at different temps. It seems to work pretty good.

 

All the ones I've seen with the built in hose and gauge have leak sealer in them

I *may* end up using one, since having NO A/C where it is in the mid 90's is not a very happy alternative....

Sort of why I am asking some advice on how much to add...hopefully someone who used gauges can say something like: "It takes 8 oz of freon between low cycle on and off and full. I used gauges when I did mine, so this is a good 'guess' while on the road until you can get back to your garage and gauges"

I do plan to break open the system, replace both (are there two?) orifices (orifi?), replace accumulator/drier, flush and clean the system, reassembly and draw a vacuum to find and fix any leaks, and add a MEASURED amount of oil and freon for a proper charge sometime after I get back.

But for now..."Walmart special fix" is in order, LOL

Thanks!

 

Last time the AC on old green needed to be repaired, we encountered this rapid cycling problem.

It was doing it even when properly charged. It ended up being a malfunctioning relay. The one that turns off the compressor at WOT.

 

I mentioned this back on page one as well because we had the same problem on our Subaru. A $5 relay fixed the cycling of the compressor...

 

Where is the relay? Can it be replaced without opening the system?

Or is it connected to something?

I can get to a NAPA if anyone has a part #?

I'll gladly try it

 

they may be referring to the relay listed under the fuse panel section in your owners manual?? but i could also be totally wrong :/

 

Not sure of your excursion but:

The ac clutch relay is located in the fuse box under the hood. It is directly under fuses 19 and 20. .