I will be posting here about my experience with replacing the engine on my 1999 Coachmen motorhome (chassis is a '98).

There will be some similarities between this thread and the excellent thread created last April by dcgayhart. His work was a real inspiration and encouragement to me, and I want to thank him for his effort and his sharing. (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gine-swap.html)

Backstory: This 1999 motorhome is new to me. I purchased it about 6 weeks ago. Mileage is 59k, and the condition of the coach is above average. Sadly, I was mistaken about the nature of its engine problems - I thought that noise was an exhaust leak, but surprisingly, after repairing the right side manifold (new gaskets, studs, resurfacing), the noise was still present. So, next step is a complete long block replacement, since all the experts agree the problem is a light case of good 'ole rod knock.




Stay tuned kids.....

-Doug

 

i will be following along out of interest, good luck!

 

same here

 

The first step in this process was to decide on the source for the engine (long block) replacement.

Keep in mind, this particular engine was only made for 3 years (97-99). So that, right away, tells you they're gonna be harder to source.

Like dcgayhart, I wanted to go with a Ford replacement. I loved the idea of the warranty through any Ford Dealer, and the cost (as per dcgayhart) seemed quite reasonable. Also, I was impressed with all the additional components that came with the long block (water pump, oil cooler, oil pan, gaskets, etc.)

Unfortunately, the Ford option was eliminated pretty quickly.

Here's why: there were NONE available anywhere in the nation, and the dealer could not provide ANY estimate for delivery (not even after it was ordered). Also, the cost was, for me, just too high. It turns out that some dealers will offer 'Internet pricing' for parts on ford-parts.com. This was apparently the case for Camelback Ford that dcgayhart used. By shopping various dealers on FordParts.com, you can see that some dealers in major metro areas will offer significant discounts from List Prices, but many dealers (such as those local to me) will not. In fact, when I pointed out to my local Ford parts man that others in Phoenix, LA, and even in little 'ole St George Utah were selling the assembly for $900 less, he stated that was impossible, since his 'cost' was $3900 (yeah, right).

So, if you have an dealer near you that offers Internet pricing then the cost of the Ford Long Block is about $3500-3700. If the dealer wants full List price it's $4531. Yikes!

So, between availability (zero) and price, that means I needed another option besides the Ford Long Block.

 

Now, this is where the plot thickens.....

I did some internet shopping for other options for the long block. There's no shortage of places that sell engines. Here's a few quick takes on what I found. Basically, prices and options are all over place.

• LKQ - This is a major engine remanufacturer that seems to be buying up other engine builders & salvage yards. I called their number and after being hung-up on once, and 15 more minutes on hold (hmmm, if you have to wait that long before you give them your money...), I got a quote for $3555. This was a bare long block - no accessories, not even the oil pan. With oil pan the cost was $4335. Core charge was $925. Too much!
• eBay - Prices were better, but many sellers just appeared to be resellers. What kind of warranty service would they provide?
• Amazon (yep, Amazon) - bare long block, no accessories $4700. Core charge? can't tell.

I'll stop here and note that in my research I had come across this somewhat interesting youtube video that is basically a long commercial for why you should buy a remanufactured engine directly from Ford. Here's the video:

The really important thing to note is all the workers in that video wear uniforms that say 'AER' (not Ford). So, that leads us to this site:
AER Sales. And there's a bunch of marketing fluff there about AER's relationship with Ford.

So, it's obvious that AER is providing the Ford long blocks to dealers.

Finally, in my research, I end up at my 'ole favorite, RockAuto. Whoa! Look at that: RockAuto offers a long block for $2617, and it appears to be loaded with all the good accessories (WP, balancer, oil pan, and even some gaskets). The only problem is, the brand is something RA calls 'Exact Powertrain'? Is that any good?

But, digging into the warranty documents available on-line at RockAuto, I find the gem I'm looking for. Right there it says the warranty coverage is provided by AER. Bingo! we have the builder.

I order the long block from RockAuto on Monday July 3rd. It arrives at my house on Tuesday morning, July 11th. After applying the easy-to-find 5% discount, and paying $163 shipping the total cost is $2648 (plus core charge of $800).

The first thing I look at is the shipping label, and the shipper is Advanced Powertrain Solutions in Addison, Texas. They have a skimpy website, with no mention of AER, but they are located 13 miles from AER. I'm certain that AER owns APS.

One thing I've learned is that there is a morass of branding, labeling, and re-selling in the remanufactured engines business.

I was really surprised (pleasantly) at how 'complete' the engine came. It includes:

* water pump,
* harmonic balancer,
* oil pan,
* coolant temp sensor (in block),
* oil filter adaptor gasket and bolts,
* exhaust manifold studs, nuts and gaskets
* Intake manifold gaskets,
* thermostat and gasket,
* oil in engine,
* oil filter,
* rear main seal.
* Spark plugs installed

ALL these parts were genuine FORD!

From all I can gather, I'm convinced that I have the same engine as I would have received from the Ford Dealer. The only difference, I think, is the Ford engine would have come with a new oil cooler. RockAuto's engine did not, and the warranty requires a new oil cooler (list price $200).

Here's the new engine:





Gaskets, etc:




Actually, they provided 2 gaskets for the oil filter adapter, and also the Water Pump O-Ring which was not needed since the WP was already installed. Intake manifold gaskets are in place under the cardboard covers.

Now, the work begins....

 

Actually, the real work began even before the new engine arrived. The old engine had to be removed. I'm not going to go into a lot of detail on this process, it's pretty much what you'd expect. But, it is amazing how much of the van has to be removed!

Here's some random thoughts that might help someone.

• A/C - If the vehicle is drivable, take it to an Air Conditioning/Radiator shop and ask them to 'recover' all the R134a freon. They should be willing to 'save' it and put it back in later, saving you the cost of the R134a.
• Seats - remove both front seats from the van. (4) 18mm nuts - rear (2) studs will stay in, so cover them with a piece of 2x4 lumber with drilled holes. Those aren't something you want to sit on by mistake !
• Shop manual - I have access to the official Ford Shop manual. Somewhat useful, but don't take their word for the removal steps. Some things the manual calls out would be just dumb to do. For example, just leave the Power Steering pump and hoses intact and move it outta the way.
• Hood - remove it. It's lightweight.
• Front end - yeah, EVERYTHING is gotta come off. And there are a bunch of screws - most are 8mm and some 10mm. Most will simply screw back into the hole you removed them from. Otherwise, use a lot of labeled baggies. Take a lot of photos, 'cause it's pretty layered and intricate here. Order of assembly really matters.
• Front Wiring - there are 2 harnesses extending across the front - the top one connects to the power distribution box under the degas tank. Disconnect from there, and it will fold back to the passenger side. The second harness is lower, and it feeds the horn, collision detector, and the headlights/side lights. It also will end up folded back to the passenger side.
• Engine hoist. The engine is gonna weigh about 550 pounds when removed. Adjust your boom length accordingly. Also, raise the front of the vehicle at least 3 inches (more if you can), because the hoist boom will contact the top of the tunnel, even if you use very short chains. Try to make the boom level (by raising the vehicle).
• Intake manifold - obviously, this has to be removed before the engine will come out. That also means, stuff like wiring harness, COP's, fuel rails, yep, pretty much everything on top. Don't bother splitting intake into upper and lower halves - not needed.
• EGR pipe - I couldn't get the pipe nut to turn at the manifold, so I had to remove the entire manifold (10 nuts). You can't raise the engine off the mounts with the EGR pipe and EGR Valve in it's normal position. After removing it, you prolly still can't get the manifold and pipe (together) to slide out, so just drop the manifold down and let the pipe rest on the valve cover.
• Engine mounts - It is not enough to remove only the mount to engine bolts (4 on each side). So, also remove the large nuts holding the mount (often called isolator) to the frame cross-member.
• Oil Filter Adaptor - it's a long aluminum pipe that carries oil and coolant on the driver side, below the exhaust manifold. Remove the oil filter (and drain the oil, of course) but you need not remove the adaptor pipe.
• A/C compressor - remove it. Along with most everything else on the front of the engine (except water pump and balancer).
• Starter - remove the 3 bolts and let it hang down without removing the red wires (black has to come off to get to 3rd bolt). You did remove the battery already, right?

A few photos:

 

FYI........AER is owned / a division of LKQ (Keystone) reman division located in TX.

You did correctly going thru Rockauto for the order. AER do not do direct sales, only thru parts dealers. Plus you got the 5% discount.

I'm not surprised that use AER as an "out-source" as you see in the video they are one hugh set-up. And not surprised that a dealer would have additional up-charge for that label.

Been down this road 3 years ago with a 5.8. Went the same route thru Rock, and I like the one time shipping fee, that includes the core return shipping.
Shipped thru Fedex fright, dock pick up and return.

Liked the 3 year, 36K warranty that I had with mine.
Liked the tech support I got when I had a problem. Even sent a ASE mechanic out to double check the problem. Resolved the problem on my own.

And, it's much fun doing an engine swap on a van.......Kind-of......

One note, I wouldn't be wrapping that chain around the water pump on the new engine.......use a couple of the bolt holes for the chain.

 

Agreed, it came out that way, but the new one didn't go in that way.

Interesting about LKQ - as I thought, they seem to be buying up half the industry.

 

No.........I think they Own most of the industry Now.

 

OK.... at this point the old engine is out, and it's time to build up the new engine. These parts can be installed prior to inserting the engine:

• Flex Plate - To torque the 8 bolts, someone else is gonna need to hold a large breaker bar (and 18mm socket) on the harmonic balancer. It's a good idea to mark the flex plate so the same holes can be matched to the same bolts in the Torque converter. Don't forget the metal plate prior to the flex plate.
• Exhaust Manifolds - install new studs, gaskets, and nuts. It's a good idea to have the manifolds resurfaced at the machine shop. Cost is about $35-40 each and both of mine (even with just 59k miles) were 'out' by quite a bit.
• Idler pulley and tensioner. I bought a Gates kit from RockAuto that includes these two and belt. Cost: $64
• Water pump pulley - remember to tighten the four small bolts later after the belt is installed.
• Knock sensor with wire
• Oil filter adaptor with oil cooler - but not oil filter.
• Cam sensor, and crank sensor.
• Oil Dip Stick and tube (before Oil Filter Adaptor).
• Intake manifold gaskets and cardboard covers - leave in place
• Spark Plugs - leave in place, but verify the torque settings

Do not yet install:

• Oil Pressure Sensor - it gets in the way of inserting the motor mount
• Water pump bypass pipe - easy to install later
• Intake manifold, and anything associated with it: COPS, injectors, fuel rail, wiring, etc
• EGR pipe

Here's some pictures:




Don't make that mistake above ^^^. The transmission was never going to mate to the engine with those 2 bolts there. See the photo below for the proper way to connect the hoist chains.

 

Notice in that last photo above the EGR pipe is attached. Since I did not want to try and loosen the large nut at the top of the EGR pipe, I elected to attach the pipe and valve as one unit.

And since there is very little room to tighten the pipe to the manifold once the engine is in place, I tightened the pipe when the engine was still about 6 inches forward of the trans. This gave me just enough room for the big wrench, but then I had to maneuver the last 6 inches with the EGR vale poking the top of the tunnel.

This shows the close quarters:

 

Notice, the engine is inserted with the 2 motor mounts (isolators) out of the vehicle. Then, once the trans is mated to the engine, and the T/C nuts installed, then insert the mounts from the front, and drop the engine into place. I needed to use a pry bar to get the right side of the engine to drop completely onto the mount.

BTW, on this block, there is a handy 3 inch cast hole that allows easy access to the T/C bolts. This hole is opposite of the starter, and has a rubber plug that rotates into the hole. You'll need to transfer the rubber plug from the old block.




No mount yet

 

After the engine is dropped in place, and the hoist of outta the way, you can start assembling in earnest.

• Mounts - tighten and torque the 2 nuts and 4 bolts for each mount. Left side mount bolts are much longer and go through the Oil Filter Adaptor.
• Intake manifold - On the bench, install the injectors with vaseline on the O-Rings. Press the fuel rail into place, and secure with the six or seven 8mm bolts. Again, no need to disassemble the lower portion. Slide the intake in place on top of the cardboard, then lift each side and remove the cardboard pieces. Ensure the gaskets are positioned - each has 2 pins to hold in proper place. Follow the intricate torqueing process (2 steps, center outward) in the Ford manual.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• COPs - use plenty of Di-Electric grease on small opening for the spark plug and on the larger 'shoulder' where it mates to the head. Use caution with the 7mm bolts, 'cause you don't want to drop one into the valley below the intake.
• Wiring harness - Start from the rear and carefully route the wire bundles along each side on top of the fuel rail. You didn't perchance loose one of those red square sealing gaskets inside each grey injector plug? If so, make a trip to the salvage yard and get some more. It's the same red silicone seal for all Ford Modular engines. Check 'em
  
  
  
  
• Front components - A/C compressor, P/S pump, Alternator, belt, Fan with clutch. Tighten those water pump pulley bolts, now that the belt is on.
  
  
  
  

 

Here's a couple more thoughts on the final steps:

• Coolant hoses - replace 'em both. Now is the easiest time to do it. Especially that lower 'octopus' hose. Notice the degas bottle hose comes with a pin that attaches the hose to the fan shroud. So route this hose accordingly - NOT behind the P/S hose - it needs to come in front, so it can touch the shroud. I'm not talking about main coolant hose (lower to radiator) rather I mean the smaller hose going up to the degas bottle.
• Upper Coolant hose - you might think the upper hose is too short (like I did), but then you'll realize that the radiator actually does NOT stand vertical. The top 'leans back' towards the engine, and the hose fits fine.
• A/C condensor - install this first before the radiator. It's easier.
• Push Pins - about now you'll be glad you purchased a new box of misc plastic push pin connectors, 'cause yer old ones are pretty mangled.
  
  
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• Air dams - use those new pins to reattach. The deflectors on either side of the A/C condensor are a little tricky to remember how they fit. Don't give up, they go like this (rubber flap hangs down)
  
  
  
  
  BUT! leave this one off until the bumper is installed:
  
  
  
• Side marker lights wiring harness plugs - yours will break off the clasp - everyone in the salvage yard is broken, or will break as soon as you touch it. I simply pressed the plug into the socket and it seems to have sufficient friction to hold. If not, it's pretty simple to get at it.
• Oil filter - fill almost to full with fresh oil then install. This will help the oil system pressurize sooner.
• Refill Coolant system - Because this engine is a 1998, I stuck with the conventional GREEN coolant. It's getting harder to find, but Autozone had 4 bottles of concentrate for about $14 each. And another 4 gallons of distilled water from Walmart. It required (eventually) right at 7 gallons total. I poured in the first 2 gallons of coolant and 2 gallons of water without even mixing them. Even with the engine cold and the thermostat closed, it will take about 5-6 gallons. BTW, in case you're wondering, I drained the old engine of coolant after it was out of the vehicle. Only about 1 gallon drained out of the block.
  

 

I was shocked at how fast the engine started.

After letting the fuel pump cycle for a moment, I cranked the engine and it immediately wanted to run - I mean literally with 3-4 seconds it was trying. I let it rest a few moments while the fuel pump pressurized, then tried again and away it goes!

Actually, I would have preferred the engine to crank awhile so the oil system got pressurized, but it took off instead. Happily there were no untoward noises or clattering, or tapping, or knocking.

Just smooth and rock solid from the get-go.

I've got 150 miles on it so far, working towards that 500 miles for the first oil change. (interestingly, remanufacturer specifies NO synthetic oil for the first 5k miles).

So far it's running super smooth and quiet.