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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

98 E-450 V-10 engine swap

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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 12:28 AM
  #16  
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Random note #1

It seems like the most common recommendation for Spark Plugs for this engine is the Motorcraft SP-479 (aka AGSF22WM) like this:




But this engine came with SP-405 (a fine wire electrode) aka AGSF22FM1







Left: SP-479 right: SP-405

I left in what they sent (the 405's)
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 12:35 AM
  #17  
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Random Note #2

The evap canister hoses were remarkably degraded. The top surface of the hoses would just crumble into fine sand when you flexed the hose slightly.








The replacement hose needs to be emissions grade (fuel). I purchased 4 feet each of 3/8" and 1/2" hose.

 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 12:41 AM
  #18  
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Random Note #3

The engine warranty (for my motorhome it is 2 years or 24k miles) specified that any engine oil coolers must be replaced. Because I didn't want to wait for a mail-order part, I got OEM Ford part from the local dealer for $190 (yikes). If you can wait (or know to order it ahead of time), you can find non OEM coolers for as cheap as $60.

Also, there was some questions on other forum posts about how to remove or tighten the cooler. The mechanism is not obvious. Inside the oil filter 'stem' you place a 14mm hex wrench. See photos






 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 12:47 AM
  #19  
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Random Note #4

The engine remanufacturer protects themselves (warranty claims) by attaching a sensor to detect engine overheating. This might be a recent thing, since I cannot see these 'buttons' on dcgayhart's photos. Softplugs at the ends of the heads:




I guess I can't blame 'em.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 12:59 AM
  #20  
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Random Note #5

Somewhere along the line, Ford must have re-designed the valve covers. The original engine had additional nuts for the valve cover, new engine does not:




 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 03:29 PM
  #21  
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Awesome documentation !
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:18 PM
  #22  
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Yea, great write up and with Notes

Kind of sounds like you were "spooked" that the engine fired up on the first try........hehe.......like expecting it not to, But the main goal was to get it to fire up and it did.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2017 | 09:07 AM
  #23  
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Good work, and pretty quick too!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2017 | 07:07 PM
  #24  
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What, no pictures of bloody knuckles, a thrown wrench sticking out of the garage wall or a hole kicked in a wall? Or am I the only one that does that?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 10:17 PM
  #25  
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Follow up to this saga....

After installed the engine, I drove the motorhome around the county on gentle slopes and easy speeds for about 500 miles. Then I changed the oil and filter.

The only problem that surfaced was that the engine temps were not right. It was always running about 10-15 degrees too hot. I had taken the original radiator to a shop and asked for a flush and flow check, but now I think all I got was a flush and a fresh coat of paint. Shop said it 'looked fine'. Uh-huh.

I tried changing the thermostat (didn't help), I tried changing the fan clutch (didn't help) so finally I replaced the radiator with a new Spectra Premium from AutoZone ($220), and the engine temps are right where they ought to be (205-220 at freeway speeds). Trans temp rarely goes over 200.

So, with this all in shape, off we go on a 2,000 mile trip through the mountains of Idaho (Redfish Lake), Montana (Flathead Lake and Glacier NP) and Canada (Waterton Lakes), Seely Lake, Helena, West Yellowstone, Island Park.

The engine ran perfectly, made plenty of smooth, quiet power, and used no oil.

Success! (apart from a transmission issue that I'll post a separate thread about).

Lesson learned: Don't waste yer time with 'checking' 20 year old radiators.

- Doug
 
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 03:22 AM
  #26  
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they flushed your wallet
 
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by deddy



Lesson learned: Don't waste yer time with 'checking' 20 year old radiators.

- Doug

Totally agree

That age alone, warrants a new radiator.
New engine = New radiator.
 
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