There are good points in your statement, but;

Agree, “Crap” needs to be defined but the OP never used that term, he used “extremely rough, and could barely idle”, much better term, that actually means something.

This O2 sensor in the EEC-IV, is ignored at idle during Cold Start-Up, until the system enters Closed Loop.

Then the O2 is ignored during WOT like Acceleration & Deceleration.

In some Calibrations, the O2 is ignored always at idle.

So, normally an O2 does not make for a crappy engine, especially during a Cold Start-UP, but negatively affects the engine in Open Loop Idle and Cruise RPMs.

So, again, agree, we always need more information; We also have to ask the questions, like;
“After driving it for about 2 hours, it started to run extremely rough, and could barely idle,”

We don’t have the very next start-up scenario, that may change the symptom displayed above.

 

Is this due to age?

Because you could consider this a collectible due to it being the first year of the EFI/MFI in the F-Series Trucks.

Now to some, this has been a Curse, Nightmare, New Lawn Art or a Free Gift to an acquaintance.

 

Its not really adaptive more of a trial error strategy, the computing power all 64K of it was not enough make it adaptive in the EEC-IV systems but was enough to do trial and error. The EEC V was upped to 1 MGB those were actually adaptive and could adjust based on actual inputs instead of trial and error . I was fully immersed with the engineering of these system when I was with Ford back in the early 80's.

 

Gentleman,

It is safe to say that my novice status is not helping you guys help me, couple that with the loss of information that only a few lines of text can provide is not helping. I will gladly give any additional information for you to weigh in on your advice with confidence.
Just to recap; I (foolishly) removed the wire from the "sensor" that is just forward of the cat to see if the emissions light would come on, hindsight a trial and error mistake. I ran it for an hour or so with no emissions light, it ran smoothly as it ever has only to go into a sputter, chug, mistimed and barely able to keep running fit. I reported this to you, reconnected the wire and followed the clearing of the code battery removal/drain (a number of times) restart and run it for a 15 min drive. It still idles and runs horrible. The smell of the exhaust has changed considerably, from barely noticeable to overwhelming with a raw fuel smell.

Sorry for this and any other lack of information that does not help, I will include more photos or whatever it is you may need. Your patience is appreciated.

Tom

 

I wonder when you did what you did if the computer told the carb to go rich and now it is stuck that way?

I think I would first see what codes you are getting so you know what the computer is seeing and trying it correct.
It may not be seeing that O2 and why it is running rich?
May also try using a screwdriver handle and tap on the carb to see if that helps unstick it that is if it is stuck.
Dave - - - -

 

Just to rule out coincidence, make sure the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator (located at the back of the fuel rail) did not get knocked off. And make sure the air cleaner is not clogged. I always check the easy things first.

 

I will try all of the above, meanwhile I am working on getting the codes read. Thanks for the ideas.

 

Ok that narrows things down.

Losing the O2 Sensor has caused the engine to go real rich overly rich.

I suspect that there is another sensor that has failed or partially failed Possibly the MAP EVP ECT

I would double check your connections on the O2 sensor.

Now there are a couple ways to fix this throw parts at it till you solve the issue. Or pull the codes off the ECU.

The early EEC IV issues do not always light the MIL also a previous owner may have pulled the bulb, this is not uncommon, does the MIL indicator light up when you turn the key to run before starting?


I recommend pulling the codes off the ECU.

Here is the how to do it from You Tube.



You are going to need to do this other wise it will just be a guessing game.

Once you rule out electronics failures you can look at mechanical issues if the problem is still present.


There is a excellent book for the Ford EEC IV novice
It is by far the most comprehensive book (exceeding Fords own tech training at the time) published on the EEC IV systems on the planet.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Ignition Engine Control
By Charles O Probst
Published by Robert Bentley Publishers
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3

This book is an absolute must for the EEC IV novice who is going to be working on their own stuff it can be had online used for under $15 and will pay for it's self many times over.

It is an old book originally published in 93 but used copy's can be found for less than $15 on the web.

 

You are just playing with words. Granted the later systems are more powerful thus more adaptable, the old EECIV system WAS adaptive or could modify it's parameters to suit differences in sensors and engines.

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/adapt

If I were the original poster, I would hook all the wires up like I think he has already done, and drive it for a couple of days. Or even drive it for 10 minutes, turn it off and then start it and drive it another 10 minutes. You would be surprised how these things can straighten themselves out after a few start stop cycles.

 

It is not playing with words Adaptive means actual being able to adaptive to the inputs the EEC IV does not do this, parameters did not change in the EEC IV microprocessor cause it can not adapt, this why you had to have Add on boards or chips to modify the programming. If value A was X instead of Y it could not say value A is X instead of Y then value X has to be adjusted to B that is adaptive , instead it did a trial and error run through a table in sequence with self testing until proper function was obtained.
A more correct term for EEC IV would be self adjusting or correcting. Just cause Ford calls some thing to make it understandable for the masses does not mean that is what it actually does.

 

However you want to describe it, I have taken the battery cable off for various reasons on some of these older EECIV engines, and then I or the customer panicked when the engine would not run right. But the more I or they would run it, the better it would run.

I have also changed sensors or something major on the engine, and then purposely taken the battery cable off for a minute or so and put it back on so it would purposely relearn my change, for better or worse sometimes.

 

Lesson learned, learn before doing.


OK, tonight's efforts include: making sure the O2 sensor was hooked up, checked for vacuum line disconnect and clean air cleaner, made sure my emissions indicator light worked on my dash (it does), watched video on how to check codes, did the paperclip jumper and had zero blinking emission light to tell me what code it is in, next I started it up and took it for a 10 min spin, then after backing her in (still running very rough) I noticed that a scrap piece of wood aft of the tailpipe was dripping black liquid. (note picture)
I'm not opposed to buying a tester and the book if that is what is next, so there will be a delay on any progress reports till then.

Thanks much,
Tom

 

I is not however I describe it, it is what it does. Don't like that the answer fits in predetermined notion of what you think it should be that's just too bad.
You have a habit of of commenting on items you clearly have no functional or theoretical knowledge of with NO intent of constructional contributiuon and this comment was exactly one of those to interject YOUR opinion with NO constructive objective other than to be heard.

 

If you can't get the MIL to read codes then you need to fall back to the analog VM to pull them or a reader..


https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...FF&FORM=VRDGAR

 

I only have a digital, is there an option for that?