anyone put disc brakes on rear of there ranger or b-series.

 

It is doable.

Here is one place that sells rear disc brake conversion kits for Rangers ($700 and you supply the labor):

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/home/

 

Not sure why you want to make the change but remember that the front brakes do most of the work so the braking gains will be small

 

u have 2 add a updated portioning valve, from a explorer or u can install a racing style one and be able 2 change the differents presher from frount to back(what i may do but, i will insyall it in the tk, so it can b adjusted @ anytime). drum brakes suck. i have no brakes but have full linning on my pads. disc stop much better then drum. also, who ever came up w/ the idea of front doing all the work, was not 2 bright because i only get 20,000 out of frount pads and million + out of my back. does a taures have same axel as a ranger, because i tried 2 buy a explorer svo kit and found out the explorer has different axel then a ranger.

 

milliken,

The reason why the front brakes do most of the work is because vehicles tend to dip forward when the brakes are applied, placing greater stopping requirements on the front wheels and less on the rear wheels. And think about it, that's a lot of weight being shifted. You're right, discs are better, and that is why you will find them on the front of virtually every car and light truck being made today.

I don't think a Taurus axle is what you want for your Ranger, I've never heard of that swap being done, and if was worthwhile, I think someone would have done it already.

 

The reason the fronts do the work is because of the weight transfer when braking. If you had equal pressure to the front and back brakes the back brakes would lock up since there is a lot less weight on them.

 

I too want to put disc on the rear of my '99 3.0 2wd Ranger w/ a 7.5" rear.
Apparently, all '95 and newer Explorers come w/ 8.8" rears w/ disc brakes. Of course, it is not a direct bolt in but it can be done.

I have already checked my local salvage yards and found a '95 Explorer 8.8" w/ disc for about $350 w/ core charge or swap. You still need the proper master cylinder and ABS stuff along w/ proportioning valve and that can come from the same Explorer if you're lucky. The worst/hardest part if getting spring perches welded to the top of the rear (or mount them under to lower the truck). Also need shock mounts welded but these appear to be easier as they can be made from 'C' channel.

This approach will come out to about the same amount as the StainlessSteelBrakes 'direct' bolt in kit plus it is a stronger resulting rear.

I think all '90 and newer Rangers w/ 4.0Ls have 8.8" and these bolt right in but you still have to swap the rear disc on and the bearing sizes (?) are smaller so supposedly a bit weaker.

Anyway, check out the other site. I am leaning toward the Explorer swap in order to get the most bang for the buck. If I put this much effort in this rear, it may wind up in a newer Ranger down the road if they don't make that an option soon.

 

I recently drove a new Mustang with rear discs. I really liked the way it stopped, just felt good.

 

i can get u a svo explror brakes 4 $400 (plus shipping, from wash. pa) w/ new everything. these r bigger then standard explorer and will bolt on same.

 

I have a 02' 4x4 with the 8.8 and am researching putting disc brakes in the rear also. The explorer rear would be stronger because of larger bearings? For cost reasons I think the stainless kit sounds like a cheaper way to go. Am I right on that?

 

LOL! Not to pick on ya man, I just got a chuckle out of this. You want to get even, find the guy who invented physics, he's the idiot. Yep, it's those annoying little natural laws like "What comes up must go down" and "an object in motion tends to stay in motion" that are getting you...

It's a long, drawn out explanation, and has been explained fairly well above, so...

You are trying to stop what is esentially a 2 ton rolling object, by applying friction to the wheels, and in turn the ground, while the vehicle is trying to move forward.
As an example, when running full speed, have someone grab your ankles.. Yer gonna fall down.. The rear brakes are there to attempt to distribute that force, keeping the truck from nose diving as much..
With out em, the truck nose dives, HARD, and can cause a loss of control. Try stopping a RWD truck on snow with no rear brakes.. Then, try turning while doing so. Wont work.
Now, try stopping with only rear brakes. Won't work well either, since, as said, the weight of the truck naturally shifts forward, taking that weight off the rear. Your brakes will lock very easily under moderate braking. Again, you're not going to stop very well.

That's why, after all these years, it works like it does, cause that's the way it works best.

As far as your problem with no rear brakes... Do you know how they function, seems like you're unfamiliar with them.. Your adjusters may not be working, or your wheel cylinders way be frozen up (disk brake calipers freeze too, ya know), or the hardware may be incorrectly installed. Have it checked.

Again, it just seems like you've got a maintance issue here more than anything, I'm inclined to guess your truck just need a little attention to get her stopping properly. Good luck!

Geez, I'm a longwinded sucker tonite, aren't I...

 

That would only prove that the fronts do more work. More braking = more wear on the pads = less miles on the pads. Also drum vs. disc makes a difference in wear. Drum brake shoes seem to last forever, which is good because they are a freakin' PITA to change compared to disc. I almost think the rear swap is worth the $700 just to not have to change drum brakes again, forget the stopping power.

-Jim

 

That's an interesting observation....maybe in the long run that 700 bucks isn't so steep, after all.

 

If I had to change the drum shoes as often as I do disc pads, you'd better believe I'd be converting in a minute. I'd probably lose an eye from one of those stinkin' springs. Take the hit once, then have an easy job afterwards. Luckily, he is right that shoes don't seem to wear as fast.

-Jim

 

As far as your problem with no rear brakes... Do you know how they function, seems like you're unfamiliar with them.. Your adjusters may not be working, or your wheel cylinders way be frozen up (disk brake calipers freeze too, ya know), or the hardware may be incorrectly installed. Have it checked.

Again, it just seems like you've got a maintance issue here more than anything, I'm inclined to guess your truck just need a little attention to get her stopping properly. Good luck!

Geez, I'm a longwinded sucker tonite, aren't I... [/B][/QUOTE]


there is know matinace proublem. i over maitence everthing i have. where i live, i am known 4 my maintaice. (long line of tk owning in my family (mack tks)) everyone whants 2 buy r stuff because of the maintace records. i been droppng @ mazda every week. (because of the warrenty) and they say that the drum brakes just don't stop like disc. i seen better brakes on mack trucks w/ a 23 ton load on it.

by the way i adjust my brakes every time i back-up.

my sister dodge dynasty had drum on the back and i put sisc on it and it stops on a dime and give change. before so so braking.

my dad's bronco has same set-up. his brakes r same as mine. Junk!!!

by the way, not all p/u have drum on the back. none of dodges have drums, newer ford full size doen't ethier. and u should see how they stop. and the whole snow and ice thing is a joke. i stop same on rain, ice snow, or dry ground. put it will stop better w/ a hevy load. i had 2 full size tool boxes full of tools ( the ones that r like 6 ft tall) the tk never dropped down. i also had a rear end out of a mack tk. (new) it had more power and more brakes, both times.


disc brakes will give u lot better stopping power then drum. they only reason ford puts them on is because they r cheaper then disc. (and like cut cost as best they can, look @ the firestone deal, there was nothing wroung w/ the tires, but ford told u 2 run 2 low air pressure)