EO4D Complete Solenoid Pack Failure?
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From: Easton,Ks
Pin #8 is ground return so not sure why 12 to 8 would be 0.93 ohms.
Pins #9 & #10 are not used.
Would have no idea on #12 to #7.
The pin #1 tests look OK.
Redid the above diagram so you might take a look.
Pins #9 & #10 are not used.
Would have no idea on #12 to #7.
The pin #1 tests look OK.
Redid the above diagram so you might take a look.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
12 & 11 are by them self and not related to the other pins or solenoids.
I am not sure what or how you are testing.
Do you have C1048, C103, C1012 & C110 or any of them disconnected?
Are you using the volt or ohm scale?
If you are connected to ground are you using pin #8 of C1048 for ground? (wire 359 is ground)
Solenoid pack plug pin#1 to 5, 2, 4, & 3 would be across the solenoid coils on the ohms scale. Or you can use a 9 volt battery (or 12V battery) across them and lessen for a click.
I am not sure what or how you are testing.
Do you have C1048, C103, C1012 & C110 or any of them disconnected?
Are you using the volt or ohm scale?
If you are connected to ground are you using pin #8 of C1048 for ground? (wire 359 is ground)
Solenoid pack plug pin#1 to 5, 2, 4, & 3 would be across the solenoid coils on the ohms scale. Or you can use a 9 volt battery (or 12V battery) across them and lessen for a click.
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12 & 11 are by them self and not related to the other pins or solenoids.
I am not sure what or how you are testing.
Do you have C1048, C103, C1012 & C110 or any of them disconnected?
Are you using the volt or ohm scale?
If you are connected to ground are you using pin #8 of C1048 for ground? (wire 359 is ground)
Solenoid pack plug pin#1 to 5, 2, 4, & 3 would be across the solenoid coils on the ohms scale. Or you can use a 9 volt battery (or 12V battery) across them and lessen for a click.
I am not sure what or how you are testing.
Do you have C1048, C103, C1012 & C110 or any of them disconnected?
Are you using the volt or ohm scale?
If you are connected to ground are you using pin #8 of C1048 for ground? (wire 359 is ground)
Solenoid pack plug pin#1 to 5, 2, 4, & 3 would be across the solenoid coils on the ohms scale. Or you can use a 9 volt battery (or 12V battery) across them and lessen for a click.
This is the wires after I cut bad sections out.
These are the wires after I mended them with new wire, skrink butt connectors, heat shrink tube, and finally electrical tape.
This is the wiring harness at this very moment of testing. The connectors under the hood are still connected. However all the other connectors had been disconnected so I could fix the damaged wires.
Now I am trying to just make sure everything checks out before reinstalling all the connectors. I am using a multimeter.
Set to 20k Ohms
pin1-2 10.51 Steady (Doesn't drop to 0)
pin1-3 10.45 Steady
pin 1-4 10.60 Steady
pin 1-5 10.08 Steady
Set to 20v Key On EngineOff Using Pin 8 As Ground
Pin 7 4.5
Pin 8 ---
Pin 9 ---
Pin 10 ---
Pin 11 0.94
Pin 12 12.21
Do those readings seem correct?
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From: Easton,Ks
In the last image are the other ends (two plugs) still plugged into the transmission?
OR is that the 4 ends that go over the transmission and plug into the transmission and C1025 & C117?
If no plugs are plugged in at all then all wires to another wire should read an open (OL).
OR is that the 4 ends that go over the transmission and plug into the transmission and C1025 & C117?
If no plugs are plugged in at all then all wires to another wire should read an open (OL).
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In the last image are the other ends (two plugs) still plugged into the transmission?
OR is that the 4 ends that go over the transmission and plug into the transmission and C1025 & C117?
If no plugs are plugged in at all then all wires to another wire should read an open (OL).
OR is that the 4 ends that go over the transmission and plug into the transmission and C1025 & C117?
If no plugs are plugged in at all then all wires to another wire should read an open (OL).
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
With C110 & C103 still connected in the engine bay I would have no idea what they would read and I do not think anybody else would either.
You need to check for continuity on each wire to itself on the the other end plug and to each other wire.
It should be open to each other wire and have continuity to its self.
You need to check for continuity on each wire to itself on the the other end plug and to each other wire.
It should be open to each other wire and have continuity to its self.
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With C110 & C103 still connected in the engine bay I would have no idea what they would read and I do not think anybody else would either.
You need to check for continuity on each wire to itself on the the other end plug and to each other wire.
It should be open to each other wire and have continuity to its self.
You need to check for continuity on each wire to itself on the the other end plug and to each other wire.
It should be open to each other wire and have continuity to its self.
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Alright pulled the whole wireway out. Connector c110 the male and female end are fried. The service manual I have calls it a in line connector, however I guess that name covers various connectors. I am having a hard time finding it's name. Any links or names?
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From: Easton,Ks
You can either go to a salvage yard and get one.
It does not have to be from a E4OD a 1995 and older 4R70W also has the same plug.
Should be easy to find.
Or you could cut it out bridge around it by soldering the wires or crimping them like you did on the bad part.
The part number for the in line connector is E8EB-14A464-B.
But you may not be able to find it.
It does not have to be from a E4OD a 1995 and older 4R70W also has the same plug.
Should be easy to find.
Or you could cut it out bridge around it by soldering the wires or crimping them like you did on the bad part.
The part number for the in line connector is E8EB-14A464-B.
But you may not be able to find it.
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Alright I ran continuity on every single wire in the harness and they all checked out good. I also ordered two connectors (unfortunately not the same one that burnt up) now while I wait I want to check the power distribution box for any damages that are not visible from just looking at the top. Keep in mind I already checked all fuses for continuity and replaced any broken fuses as well as made sure the correct fuse was each space. I want to check the underside of the box, but more importantly inside where all the connections are made. I'm worried about breaking it as I've already tried a small amount of prying. Any advice on this? Also where are you getting all this info and diagrams? The service manual doesn't cover any of the stuff in great detail like the information I am being given. I also don't want to ask 50 questions to something I could just look up. I very much appreciate the help and time, but don't want to take advantage of it either.
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I gave up on the power distribution box before I broke it to bits. This question is a can of worms, but should I use dielectric on my connectors when I reinstall the wireway? I noticed what seems to be a residual on my pin connections.