Ok y'all, I changed my oil (I have changed the oil in my vehicles for years) I started the truck and instantly it sounded a little.....off. Well the sound is not going away. If anything it's getting worse. It's literally like knocking. I am an aviation mechanic and like 15 other mechanics have looked at it and can't figure it out. Help!

 

Have you checked oil pressure with quality mechanical gauge?

Brand oil filter?

 

What engine? What oil? What filter? New brand of oil and/or filter? Or same as previous fills?

If you're using the same oil and filter as before, I'd start with changing the filter. Maybe it's jacked up...

 

Welcome to FTE.

Is this vehicle the 2017 Expedition in your profile?, if so, as has been suggested, it might be helpful to know which engine it has & the oil, viscosity & filter brand used.
BTW, how in the world did you put over 250,000 miles on a 2017 Expedition in this short a time?

Some engines are sensitive to the sequence we use to change the oil & filter. EDIT: Some of the newer design engines with variable valve timing are sensitive to oil viscosity & some oil filters are known to cause start up noise, so the specified oil viscosity, service grade & if it says in writing that the oil is licensed to meet, or exceed Fords specifications & filters that say they meets Fords flow rates & filtering ability, are important considerations, if we choose to step out side what's specified for our engine.

Long story, so be patient:
The 4.0L pushrod engine in my 99 Ranger is Very sensitive to the method & sequence I use in changing it's oil & filter. I must completely prefill my new filter, change the filter First, without delay, then drain the sump, but not any longer than when it Begins to drip, then reinstall the drain plug & without delay refill the pan.

Then I Disable the fuel pump by disconnecting the in cabin inertia switch, or thump it so it trips, so the fuel pump won't run & the engine won't start & the fuel injectors won't wash the cylinders down, while I crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. But not longer than 15 seconds at a time, so as not to over heat the starter motor. Then re-enable the fuel pump & start it up & check for leaks.

If I don't do this routine, after about 15-20 seconds of idle, it'll begin to sound like a danged diesel engine for Days. EDIT: The sound is called "marble noise". It's a metallic rattle, sorta like marbles, or ball bearings, or pool ***** clacking together. Apparently not pre-filling the filter & changing it First & not cranking the engine to burp the oiling system of air, will trap a slug of air somewhere in the blind end of a oil gallery & that slug of air must act as an air spring to mess with oil pressure to the lifters, or a slug of air gets into the lifters & takes a while to work itself out.

This scared the heck out of me when I did it's First oil change & I had prefilled the filter as I always have on my vehicles, but I had changed the filter Last & let the pan drain until it stopped dripping.

How loud was it, well the guy next to me at the boat ramp in a brand new Toyota Tacoma, came over to ask when Ford began installing Diesels in my brand new Ranger. Yup it was that loud, took it about 10 days to Fully work itself out after that first change.

The Dealer said all was fine, don't worry about it, I didn't buy that, so worked out my own oil & filter change sequence, as posted above, after some on line searches for some answers & trial & error on follow up changes. Yes I was using the Specified 5W-30 & Motorcraft FL-1A filter.

Anyway, for some reason not yet determined to my satisfaction, my 99 push rod 4.0L is Mighty persnickety about it's oil & filter change Method & Sequence. If I do it as outlined above, the engine is quiet after it's oil & filter change, if I drain the pan first, then change the filter last & don't prefill it, after a restart it'll sound like a diesel, the longest time was two weeks before it was completely quiet again, until it's next change.

So as has been suggested, give us some more info about which engine, oil, viscosity, filter & method you used & the forum will post up it's best guess as to what may be amiss. Most times it's a filter problem as has been suggested, but newer engines with variable valve timing are persnickety about oil viscosity & as you've read, mine was a little more involved but was addressable over time, with some attentive effort. Don't get discouraged, hang in there & we'll see if we can talk it through to a successful ending.

 

Then spin the filter off and see if it picked up oil. Double check that you have the correct filter .

No oil light on i am guessing ?

 

Permit me to say that I find this sequence thing more than a bit mind boggling. I do find it hard to comprehend that Ford engineers would design an engine that requires observance of this sequence.

How does the engine know if the filter has been changed before, after, or during the draining of the oil pan? If it does, that kind of intelligence is scary!

What do the Owner and Service Manuals for this truck specify in this regard?

 

Maybe I went over board in describing what I ran into & what I found that worked for my 99 4.0L pushrod engine. Not knowing what oil, filter, or engine the OP, or you have, my example was to alert you that if your engine has variable valve timing for example, it's design may be really sensitive to oil viscosity at temperature & it may also be sensitive to filter flow dynamics at cold start up, so if your having noise, begin with telling us what engine your ride has & what brand & filter number you used for the replacement oil & filter.

In my case it might not be a design thing, as much as a flaw in the engine factory machining, finishing, or cleaning process, in any case thats what I was facing & what I found for a solution. It seems not all push rod 4.0L engines are sensitive to oil change sequence like mine, but others with the 4.0L push rod engine have reported like noise after an oil & filter change. There isn't any thing in my owner manual about this, other than the viscosity & oil filter part number call out to use.

EDIT: The prefilling of the filter, or not, the order in which it's changed, how long I let the pan empty, disabling the fuel pump & cranking the engine to burp air & prime the oiling system, all figure in on how much oil drained out of the oil galleries & how large of a slug of air the system gets on start up after the oil & filter change. The disabling of the fuel pump & cranking the engine to prime the oiling system & burp air out, is from Ford TSB 01-24-6 here http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=114538, about doing such on reman, or crate replacement engines, before they are started up the first time. Worked for me!!! Also both 4.0L pushrod & SHOC engines oil pump was never upgraded to be able to pump enough Volume of 5W-20 at hot operating temp, so were never back specified to be able to use 5W-20 oil, so we with the 4.0L are to still use 5W-30. A couple of other engines were to continue using 5w-30 also, as outlined in this TSB 02-1-9 Exceptions list at the end of the TSB here http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=114752

In the OP's case, we don't yet have enough info to do more than speculate, refer to what we've run into over the decades, or read about others woes, to try & provide some clues to compare to what's happening after the oil & filter change & the kind of sound the OP is hearing.

For example, if your engine is newer, it likely has a OHC engine & if the cam is chain driven, may have a tensioner that's dependent on oil pressure to keep proper tension, such that if the wrong oil viscosity was used, or if the oil filter was defective, or the system got a slug of air from a empty replacement filter, or the filter has a defective anti-drain back valve that lets oil empty, or partially empty/syphon out after shut down & thus causing chain tension problems, it also can rattle & make a "marble noise" like sound, or other bearings can make noise until oil flow & pressure catch up.

For instance, if the noise is more of a deep thunking, the problem is more likely lower down in the block around the crank shaft bearings, if more to the front of the engine & we have a chain driven OHC, it may be chain noise, if sorta in the upper/middle of the engine & we have a push rod engine, it might be lifter noise. So we need more info from the OP to make more focused suggestions on where to look for the root cause of an engine noise.

If you don't have your vehicle Owner Manual for reference to replacement oil viscosity & service grade, or the specified Motorcraft replacement oil filter, a no cost down load can be done from the link in this forum "Tech Info" thread atop the index page here. Owner Manuals | fleet.ford.com

Post up the requested engine, oil & filter details & the forum can likely be more specific with our replies.

 

I concur, and do heartily recommend, pre-filling the oil filter when changed, no matter the make/model/year of the vehicle.

Am I not correct that the procedure set out in the referenced TSB on cutting off the fuel supply and cranking the engine in 15 sec. intervals refers to initial start up of a new, remanufactured or overhauled engine? It does not indicate use of that procedure at every oil change.

My engine is the 2002 version of the 2 Valve, 6.8L, V10 Triton.

 

Right, that's Fords recommended procedure for priming the oil pump. They don't say we need to do it after every oil & filter change But if the engine knocks after a oil & filter change, one doesn't, or can't prefill the filter because of how it's mounted on the engine, one lets the pan drain until every last drop drips out, consider using that procedure to re-prime the pump, fill the filter & burp the oiling system of that large bubble of air an empty filter puts into the oiling system, Before restarting.

The engine will likely appreciate not getting a big slug of air & a high rpm dry start, that it would get with a empty oil filter, after a oil & filter change.
Just seems like good practice & for my 99 4.0L pushrod engine it's a necessary step for me to perform in order not to have days long "marble noise", after a change.

Would it help the OP's problem, we don't know, as no reply yet.

 

Well C-17chief how is it going with the engine knock diagnosis, 219 curious minds would like to know?