Hey Guys. I did my first oil change today on my 2017 F250.

I have been changing oil on my cars for years. I enjoy it. For the money I save I get each oil change analyzed by Blackstone Labs. I will probably start a oil analysis thread for my engine and report on results after each oil change.

I did this oil change at 2,300 miles. My next one I plan to do at a similar interval and then extend to 5,000 miles then move out to 10,000 mile intervals or when I'm instructed to by the truck.

I am following the manufacturer oil change intervals in my wifes diesel and each analysis they tell me this engine may have problems. Each oil change it never gets better only more dire for that motor. It all started when the engine didn't get flushed out correctly when the engine was new. I always follow a little more aggressive oil change interval at the beginning with my cars. But hers is a lease so I thought why not just follow the manufacturer...let's see what happens. Won't ever be doing that again.

For anyone considering an oil change on the 6.7 Power Stroke here are a couple thoughts.

1. This is the easiest, cleanest engine I have ever changed oil on.

2. I bought 2, 10 quart buckets from Home Depot to collect the oil. Those black oil collectors from Walmart will NOT handle the amount of oil coming out of this engine…don’t even try them…you will have a massive mess on your hands.

3. Do not under estimate the amount of force it will take to break loose the original oil filter at the first oil change on the engine. They are torqued on big time and unless you are a part time weight lifter you will need a BIG wrench to loosen it up.

4. I watched a couple YouTube videos and when the guys remove the oil filters there is a ton of oil splashing out of them once they loosen up the oil filter. I took a small screw driver and a hammer and just poked a small hole in the lower side of the filter. It didn’t take much of a tap and the oil started flowing right out. Don’t do this until you know you can get the filter loosened up…you don’t want to drain all the oil out and have a hole in a filter you cannot change.

5. Side note…my factory installed filter was on so tight the oil ring on the filter was broken from it’s attachment point on the filter and rolled around on my floor. There must have been 80-100 lbs of torque on that filter.

6. When you reinstall the filter you should pre-fill the oil filter. It will take approximately 1 full quart of oil. I did an experiment and put almost a full quart of oil into the engine with the drain plug and filter removed. 100% of the oil came out of the oil pan. Zero oil came out of the filter mount area. Pre-filling the oil filter is very important so you don’t starve your engine of oil after an oil change. How many Ford dealers take the time to do this??? My guess many don’t. These are the little reasons why I do my own oil changes.

All in all a pretty easy job as you don’t have to drive these things on ramps and there is a ton of room under that truck to easily get to everything.

Hope this can help someone.

 

Some great tips redrocker. Any recommendations for a filter wrench as I'm about to do my first oil change.

 

I have something like these.

They fit around the filter pretty good. I had to squeeze hard to crush the filter a bit to allow the pliers a good grip on the filter.

OEM Oil filter pliers 25320 - Read 3 Reviews on OEM #25320

 

With a filter that's too tight for a strap wrench you can just drive a large screwdriver completely through it to get it off. Just stay away from the top half and you won't be in danger of hurting the threads on the filter mount. Also make sure to punch the bottom and let it completely drain first or you'll make a huge mess.

 

Punching the oil filter will save you a mess. Prefilling the oil filter is probably not going to make any difference. It takes about two seconds for the engine oil pump to fill it after the first start. The only reason anyone even talks prefilling the oil filter is because this one is installed vertically. Most vehicles have filters mounted diagonally, so of course nobody prefills those. I use a large oil drain pan that has plenty of capacity without having to switch pans in the middle of draining. See this one:

 

I'm not capable of doing my own oil changes so will take it in to the dealer -- is it always recommended to do the first one at 2,500 miles?

 

Thanks for the link. I found this one on the same page. Look pretty much the same for about $6 less.

 

I've got 3100 miles on my 250. And I have exactly zero intentions of changing the oil before 10,000 miles. That said, I've already scoped out an oil pan.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Dut...ainer/47501979

Advanced Auto has them as well. But for nearly $35. I suspect this pan will be more than capable of handling the outflow of the oil from the engine.

 

I will never use one of those types of containers again. One time I used one, dropped the plug, the plug of course fell into the hole at the bottom of the built-in funnel, stopping flow inside the container. Of course it then overflowed and oil was everywhere. This one looks like it has a hole large enough the plug could fall all the way through. If that's the case, you're a little better off but still stuck trying to retrieve the plug from inside the container. I like the big open ones. YMMV

 

The opening is UGE! Saw it in person at Advance yesterday.

Don't drop the plug. In either situation, you're stuck going in! Plus, at 24qt, you don't have to worry about swapping out buckets (and making a mess) and have enough space to change the little car's oil.

 

Your tips are really good. Your truck, so the early oil changes, IDK. I do like the black stone report idea, I am thinking on it. I have a dealer maintenance package on mine, first vehicle ever. I am curious when you guys change your own oil on these new motors, when you first add he new oil, and start it, then check the oil how dirty does it look? Of course when I get mine done, and I check it at home it already looks pretty dpsooty black. When I did my own it was always so clear at first it was hard to tell where the oil was on the stick.

If it wasn't to much trouble, pics of the oil on the stick, before, right after, and in an hour of running would be helpful.

 

Engine did not get flushed out correctly when built??? Maybe I am missing something here. If assembled in a clean environment, which they are, why is there a need for flushing. Educate me please. Not refuting this, but I have seen the process and have never seen any "flushing".


Sam

 

I would be careful using those walmart oil pans. The 13 quarts of oil comes out unbelievably fast and I don't think those containers can handle the volume. In fact I am nearly 100% confident they won't. When I poured the oil from my 2 10 quart containers into one of those pans for storage and transportation later I had to be very careful not to over flow the pan when pouring it in.

I will post up the latest analysis of my wifes MB GL 350 Bluetech. You guys can decide if the small cost of early oil changes is worth it. Everyone has to make their own choices around maintenance. I chose to do early changes in the beginning. Then after 15-20,000 miles I typically go a little longer than the recommended change b/c I am getting my oil analyzed and I can measure accurately it's ability to protect the engine. I run gas engines to 150,000 plus miles using this method and they are running like new at that point.

 

I could not figure out how to convert a pdf to a jpg so I could post here...so I just took a pic using my phone.

Here is what I'm taking about. I have only used the highest quality oils and filters. We don't tow with this SUV. My wife puts on 70% of the miles and she is not a fast driver. This has been our family highway cruiser over the past 3 years.

 

People go back and forth on the early oil changes. I'm a bit OCD about it as I do oil changes at 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, and 8000 before going to doing it whenever the oil minder tells me to. The reason I do this is that I know all of the oil lubed mating surfaces (rings, cyl walls, main bearings, cam bearings, etc) will be wearing into their mates during this time and thus will be putting microscopic metal shavings into the oil. Those shavings will wear on the other non wearing surfaces inside the oil system (oil pump, lifters, rockers, etc) and I want to minimize that by removing as much of those shavings as I can from the system as quickly as possible. I am going to do black stone analysis on all of these on the new truck as that was one thing I regret not doing on the 2015 when it was new. We'll see what it shows compared to those doing longer initial intervals.