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Rear Diff Flud

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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 05:39 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by wedge542
Do you have one in yours,it doing ok on the street or towing heavy, im installing clutches,side gears,spider and gears in mine now but with 340k guess its time.
I put one in last August or September. It's been flawless, I don't notice it's there except that I have traction. It does great towing, hot rodding, off road, snow, etc.

Don't bother replacing parts in the stock limited slip. Iirc clutches were pretty expensive by themselves. Pick up a true trac and a set of carrier bearings and the install is easy.

I want to say it was close to $600 for parts to overhaul the stock limited slip (side and spider gears and clutches) and the true trac was $589 from summit racing.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 06:28 PM
  #17  
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If it's just theclutch pack the Yukon kit runs around $175 and a few hours. Ford sets the pack a little loose so you can shim it some. Too much and it has to come back out.

I had a Detroit Locker in a Shelby 350, while it did what it was supposed to, having a passenger in the car got complaints.

I used to run brake tests out of Eaton's Marshall, MI test track, where they used to also test their drivetrain parts. They would drive up to one of the grades and stop with one wheel on a polished steel plate. Polished but a tire.

Eaton's is a good company and if the truck was younger, a Truutrac would be a good investment. I'll see if I have a picture of a vehicle on the hill. I used to love going to that track. The Eaton people were the friendliest I've worked with and it was a neat track. However the water there had a real high sulphur content so we always went back to the hotel before showering.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 06:52 PM
  #18  
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CHRIS,thats what ill be doing next time around,i got the oem clutches from a friend 100 bucks,the internal gear kit 125 bucks but dont want to do this often.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 07:32 PM
  #19  
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How long did you get out of the rebuild?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 07:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
If you're going through the trouble of opening up the differential, you might as well toss a true trac in there and have a traction device that actually works and then never worry about friction modifier ever again.
Tell us more about this true trac of which you speak whats it do for you? how muich? how hard to install?
I'll tell you what....several years ago i had a one wheel wonder Ranger. Got tired of the one wheel spin when the roads were wet. I bought a Ford motorsport traction lock and installed it myself. after that when it spun on wet roads the whole rearend of the truck would head to the low side of the street (gravity). But when it broke loose both wheels were spinning. None of this one side to the other and back again like my powerstroke. Edit: Nevermind MRcmk. I didn't notice you answered above. Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 07:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
How long did you get out of the rebuild?
I asking me,ive never built this trucks before and cant realy tell if ever been into but if not its got 342k on it,drw track loc, you can get away stacking the clutches a little tighter in a srw because of tire slip but a drw takes a little more room,if tires cant slip [transfer] somethings gotta give.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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I can't find the images of a test in progress.

This is the track:




The grades are mostly used for parking to meet NHTSA 20 and 30% standards, but the three to the upper right are more used for the military testing with varying mue surfaces. The split traction surface plates are to the sides on the main slope.





This doesn't bring anything to the discussion of lube or additive, but thought it might be interesting as most never see the R&D facilities.
 
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