Undercoating - A Frame-ON restoration
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 441
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From: Vicksburg, MS
Undercoating - A Frame-ON restoration
I'm in the process of breathing some life back into my dent. I'm doing mostly mechanical upgrades now, but I plan to paint it soon. The sheet metal is in good shape, but I would like to give it a thorough cleaning/degreasing underneath and apply some sort of protective coating. There's a lot of real estate under there, and I'd like to protect it as best I can without extensive disassembly, sanding, etc.
I just want to clean it and spray it with something from underneath. Can anyone suggest a decent product or technique?
-POR-15 is a good product, but a bit expensive and toxic for this case. I'll probably use it on some spots with more aggressive rust.
-Chassis Saver looks like a good, affordable product.
-I painted a frame on a car I built one time with Zero Rust. It ended up flaking off in some places.
I just want to clean it and spray it with something from underneath. Can anyone suggest a decent product or technique?
-POR-15 is a good product, but a bit expensive and toxic for this case. I'll probably use it on some spots with more aggressive rust.
-Chassis Saver looks like a good, affordable product.
-I painted a frame on a car I built one time with Zero Rust. It ended up flaking off in some places.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 340
From: Wildwood Pa
I like Rustoleum Rust Metal primer, topcoated with Rustoleum gloss black. The stuff in the quart cans, not spray cans. It is priced right, has held up well for me. Easy to touch up if it ever needs it.
I'm not a POR 15 fan, it never lived up to its claims.
I'm not a POR 15 fan, it never lived up to its claims.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
Either way, key is prep. First get all the grease/oil off. For really dirty areas, I start with a stiff brush and a little paint solvent. Then simple green and pressure wash. Steam clean is even better.
Then remove loose paint and rust. I used a HF needle peener to help... though a wire brush, scraper and pick for tight places works. Then prime and paint.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
After working in auto body for a few years I learned no matter what product you use, without correct prep work it won't last. If thers any oil, grease, loose rust, etc that isn't removed before application, that's where it'll start to fail.
In the past I've done a couple vehicles the "quick" way, clean/ degrease with pressure washer, quick wire brush loose stuff, rust converter, than coat. It never lasted more than a couple years before it was rusting through/ flaking and needed to be done again.
Honestly, I'd look for a big truck shop that does chassis painting. They blast and paint the undercarriage. My boss had his rollback done when i started at the shop and it came out awesome and still looked new 5 years later when I left, after multiple New England winters doing recovery work. Regular washing and lanolin applications(Fluid Film) helped.
In the past I've done a couple vehicles the "quick" way, clean/ degrease with pressure washer, quick wire brush loose stuff, rust converter, than coat. It never lasted more than a couple years before it was rusting through/ flaking and needed to be done again.
Honestly, I'd look for a big truck shop that does chassis painting. They blast and paint the undercarriage. My boss had his rollback done when i started at the shop and it came out awesome and still looked new 5 years later when I left, after multiple New England winters doing recovery work. Regular washing and lanolin applications(Fluid Film) helped.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 998
Likes: 3
From: North Pole
I used Second skin. Awesome stuff. Yes you have to prep the area really good. It serves as an under coating and also a sound deadener. You can roll it on or spray it. I rolled it on and got three Coates on the cab for a gallon of product. I even used on the inside of the cab. Kill automotive vibrations with Spectrum? & Spectrum Sludge? | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.
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headgoatroper
1947 and Older Ford Trucks
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Mar 23, 2010 09:25 AM
