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tracking down oil leak?

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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 11:49 AM
  #16  
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Simple answer is no... It might also be your Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) as that is very prone to leaking. I believe that the pedestal o-rings need to be replaced once removed even if they were good.

Bob at Diesel O Rings is a great source for this sort of thing.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 12:16 PM
  #17  
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I ordered a set from him, and new intake tubes while I'm in there...anything else I might want to replace while I have it apart? Seems like cheap insurance to me
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:10 PM
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My EBP piston/oring was leaking. I thought it was HPOP. Spent quite a bit of time tracking it down. Here are some threads with pics showing the various angles and things to check out with a mirror.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...k-at-pics.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17235324

Be sure to check that rear cap and seal for the EBP, that's where mine STILL was after I rebuilt it. Some people remove it all together, I prefer to keep it.

Lots of pics, compare to yours. Get it all CLEAN and test drive it to see where it leaks.

I also put a blue shop towel in the middle of the valley after cleaning and drying it to separate the front and rear. Helped determine if it was HPOP as gaskets and such, or turbo, EBP, pedestal and stuff
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:21 PM
  #19  
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:22 PM
  #20  
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thinking I may have to cut the down pipe clamp off
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:29 PM
  #21  
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I had to cut mine off when I removed my turbo. The nut was on the back side of the assembly and I ended up bending the bolt trying to break it loose. A dremel made quick work of the thin metal between the v-cleats though and of course a new one fit great.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 02:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BroncoChuck
thinking I may have to cut the down pipe clamp off
Take the nut clear off and store it. Spray the clamp with PB Blaster. Use long screwdriver and rubber hammer to beat a little against the end of the clamp.

Spray again. Go get a drink or lunch. Come back and repeat. It should jump right off!
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 02:39 PM
  #23  
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stubby ratchet wrench and one damn click at a time got it off eventually
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 02:41 PM
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the turbo mounting bolts were loose and I took them out by hand. looks like the only thing holding the turbo in was the tension from the exhaust pipes. I am going to guess this will be my oil leak BUT there was no leaking oil with dye, just the general sludge and crud from a dirty motor
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 05:59 PM
  #25  
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any thoughts on going through the EBPV since its out? Is there a thread on disassembly and inspection? I see a few on deleting it but Im not sure I want to go that route
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 06:03 PM
  #26  
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While you have the turbo off look into checking/adjusting the the wastegate.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 06:44 PM
  #27  
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sorry if this sounds dumb, but I wouldn't know where to start on that
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 07:04 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BroncoChuck
any thoughts on going through the EBPV since its out? Is there a thread on disassembly and inspection? I see a few on deleting it but Im not sure I want to go that route
My thread posted earlier has some pics in it.

Most claim theirs leaks past the piston and out the shaft side. It's not serviceable, only replaceable for about $100. Mine was leaking out the back side at the oring, also part of the kit.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 07:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BroncoChuck
sorry if this sounds dumb, but I wouldn't know where to start on that
You can google it. I haven't done it, but I wished I had when I had my turbo off to do the up pipes.


The basic jist of it is that you apply a low air pressure to the wastegate and then, if necessary adjust it so that it doesn't open too soon.

What I don't know is what good pressure values are for adjustment. Hopefully that info isn't too hard to find though.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 11:07 PM
  #30  
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OK, I replaced the EBPV, the turbo stand o-rings, the turbo bolts, and the y-pipe soft tubes. Torqued everything down and took it for a test run for 30 mins or so. So far, so good; looks like the leak issue is done with. I am hoping that a drop of hi temp thread locker on each turbo bolt, plus the new design, will keep them from vibrating loose like the original ones. I'r ready to do a test pull with the camper soon.
 
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