Shake and Brake
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2017
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Shake and Brake
1993 F-350 Dually
Light braking is fine. Moderate to heavy braking the body shakes bad. There is no shaking in the steering wheel. New front rotors. Tires are pretty much used up. There is no shaking with brakes not applied.
What is causing this?
Thanks
Light braking is fine. Moderate to heavy braking the body shakes bad. There is no shaking in the steering wheel. New front rotors. Tires are pretty much used up. There is no shaking with brakes not applied.
What is causing this?
Thanks
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 133
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Rear drums are out of round , when you feel shaking in the pedal and steering wheel its the fronts. try this get up to the desired speed and pull your E brake release HOLD IT OUT while applying the E brake with your foot your truck should shake. Since the only brakes that are being applied are the rear. YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER TO KEEP PULLING ON THE RELEASE UNTIL THE E BRAKE IS ALL THE WAY UP. or the rear e brake is going to be applied.
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Thanks for your quick reply.
I did this and got no shaking. The parking brake doesn't apply much force, the truck barely slowed at all. At a stop I pushed on the parking brake as hard as I could. It took only a very small application of throttle for the truck move. I would except it to do better than this but I don't know. What do you think?
Out of round brakes sound reasonable. It is a tough job to pull the drums. I have only grass to work on. Just wish I knew for sure before stating work or taking it to a shop.
Could bad shocks cause shaking like this?
I did this and got no shaking. The parking brake doesn't apply much force, the truck barely slowed at all. At a stop I pushed on the parking brake as hard as I could. It took only a very small application of throttle for the truck move. I would except it to do better than this but I don't know. What do you think?
Out of round brakes sound reasonable. It is a tough job to pull the drums. I have only grass to work on. Just wish I knew for sure before stating work or taking it to a shop.
Could bad shocks cause shaking like this?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 133
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worn shocks will not cause that. This body style truck have a problem with the rear E brake not releasing all the way. Its caused by the routing of the e brake cable check yours out to see what I mean. The cable is routed between the frame and spring making a hard downward bend. That one goes to the drivers side, and it will drag and not release all the way causing the drivers side to wear faster than the P/S. I disconnected my D/S inside the drum because it would constantly cause that issue your truck has. My truck is single rear wheel with the sterling 10.25 it has floating drums. Sometimes a blown wheel cylinder causes what your describing, look to see if you have any fluid coming out of the drum maybe take off the adjuster plug on the backing plate you might be able to see in with a flashlight.
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There is no fluid showing. Doesn't mean that the leak isn't new and has not reached the outside yet. The routing of the brake cable looks OK. It has a 5-6 inch bend radius. It the inner cable does rub against the bracket for the running board. There is no damage to the plastic coating.
Should the parking brakes be able to hold the truck when giving power? Recall number 94V169001 sounds like it might be my problem.
https://www.cars.com/recalls/ford-f350-1993
Should the parking brakes be able to hold the truck when giving power? Recall number 94V169001 sounds like it might be my problem.
https://www.cars.com/recalls/ford-f350-1993
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Kansas City, KS
worn shocks will not cause that. This body style truck have a problem with the rear E brake not releasing all the way. Its caused by the routing of the e brake cable check yours out to see what I mean. The cable is routed between the frame and spring making a hard downward bend. That one goes to the drivers side, and it will drag and not release all the way causing the drivers side to wear faster than the P/S.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Madison, WI
Is this the 460 mentioned in your other thread? I could imagine it easily overcoming the parking brake. I know our PSDs can with little effort. How far does the parking brake pedal travel?
You can check cable movement as well. Release the parking brake, and put a piece of tape on the core of each rear wheel cable where it comes out of the housing on the splitter thingy, near where the housings are held to the frame. Then apply the parking brake, and go look at the tape. That will indicate how far the cables move. I think they typically move at least an inch or more, but the important thing is they should both move the same. If one moves a lot less, or doesn't move at all, that rear cable is restricted/seized. That wouldn't cause the brake-shake, but it would foil your test to find it.
You can check cable movement as well. Release the parking brake, and put a piece of tape on the core of each rear wheel cable where it comes out of the housing on the splitter thingy, near where the housings are held to the frame. Then apply the parking brake, and go look at the tape. That will indicate how far the cables move. I think they typically move at least an inch or more, but the important thing is they should both move the same. If one moves a lot less, or doesn't move at all, that rear cable is restricted/seized. That wouldn't cause the brake-shake, but it would foil your test to find it.
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Yes it is the 460. When I first tried this test I pressed fairly hard to where I would expect it to hold but it would roll under idle speed. After pushing as hard as I could, it would move with only a few hundred RPMs increase of throttle. My only comparison is a 1982 Cutlass. It would go up to stall and just creep forward. I will try this test on the C-10.
The parking brake lever goes down to one inch above the carpet. I can feel it getting tighter until I can push no harder. There is no hard stop. The cores move 1 1/2 inches on both sides.
I don't understand this parking brake. There is no clicking as it tightens up as most do. It is automatically adjusted, right?
The parking brake lever goes down to one inch above the carpet. I can feel it getting tighter until I can push no harder. There is no hard stop. The cores move 1 1/2 inches on both sides.
I don't understand this parking brake. There is no clicking as it tightens up as most do. It is automatically adjusted, right?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Yep, your 1993 should have an auto-adjust parking brake. The pedal/release mechanism has the auto-adjust built in. I would say if your rear cables are traveling that far, and evenly, and you're not hitting a hard stop, your parking brake is working right on both sides.
Unfortunately, short of pinching the rear axle flex line, I don't know of any way of doing the opposite, of isolating to just the front brakes. But that might be your next option.
Unfortunately, short of pinching the rear axle flex line, I don't know of any way of doing the opposite, of isolating to just the front brakes. But that might be your next option.
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The wheel bearing adjustment is good. The smallest side to side movement of the tire results in movement of the steering wheel so the suspension seems fine.
I tried the parking brake test on the C-10 and it took a lot of power to get it to move.
I tried the parking brake test on the C-10 and it took a lot of power to get it to move.
