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I have not done an actual compression test but yes seems to be in good health. Just trying to get it correctly back together on the cheap for now so I can get it in my name and registered.
I just picked up 67' F100 with the 240ci and a 4 speed manual.
I am in the process of doing a tune up and some maintenance and notice that it appears the vacuum advance is broken. It will engage but then immediately starts to recede, will not hold.
NOTE: - Do you mean the canister will not hold vacuum?
Is that a sign of it being worn out or am I missing something?
That brings me to my next question. I was going to replace it as the distributor seems fine, but can't find just it alone to buy. The number on my distributor is C8AF 12127 A (Autolite) and it has two ports.
The numbers from my carb, metal tab says DOPF F, but then stamped into the body it reads DOPF 9510 J.
It is my understanding that the distributor and carb need to "match". I went to the local auto store to just buy an entire new distributor and they were no help.
I will try and post some pictures, hopefully they work. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
You have a 1967 vehicle 240 that came from the factory with the LOAD-O-MATIC System. 1967 was the last year for this design as emissions standards got more strict.
The system was very complicated to get to run correctly, so the normal repair was to install a later system as has been done on yours.
The carb is from a 1970 engine and the dist from a 1968 vehicle with IMCO.
The vacuum advance canister should readily be available from a parts jobber (NAPA for instance) with the DIST I.D. No.
Now, your PRESENT distributor advance unit has an advance feature (forward port) and a retard feature (rear port). When replacing, use only the front port connected to a ported vacuum source @ the carb. The rear section of the advance is a retard feature to reduce HC @ idle and deceleration. You would need to plumb in a 1968 PVS (ported vacuum switch) to make it operative.
Personally, I would replace the advance (duel diaphram is easier to source) (a single diaphram would be better (IMO) but you would need an MPC to figure out which would work).
A good tune to factory specs should get you by the sniff test.
DOPF is a generic replacement carb. The 'P' denotes this. Instead of having every carb for every application, 'average' carbs were put in the spare parts inventory. Truth be told, carbs are very swappable as long as you are in the right CFM range. I came across an NOS DOPF at an antique mall of all places. Has a little more complex linkage set so it can adapt to just about anything.
So now knowing that even though it is a newer motor, since I have the carb previously mentioned and my current vacuum advance is broken, should I still put in the A-1 CARDONE 302609. Its only $50 from local auto store so if it is a correct match it would be the cheapest option to get the truck up and running for now.
No you do not want that distributor that is a load a matic distributor.
Your truck has been converted to a conventional ignition system.
Just as well the load o matic system is called the crap o matic system for a reason.
You need to match the Carb and distributor if it is a load o matic distributor you need a load o matic carburetor and vice versa.
You can use a conventional type distributor with a load o matic carb if you use the distrbutor advance with manifold vacuum or convert the carb to provide just a ported vacuum signal.
You want the CARDONE 302689 distributor its bit more costly but not much.
That is an exact replacement for the one currently in your truck.
I would not worry originality in this instance as ditching the load O matic system is pretty much a given on any vehicle that is going to see any amount of road time. The only reason to keep it is if you are doing a concours restoration even then if you are going to drive it any amount replace it..
DOPF is a generic replacement carb. The 'P' denotes this. Instead of having every carb for every application, 'average' carbs were put in the spare parts inventory. Truth be told, carbs are very swappable as long as you are in the right CFM range. I came across an NOS DOPF at an antique mall of all places. Has a little more complex linkage set so it can adapt to just about anything.
...well...
The carb has to be within certain calibration9s) and usually will have a sheet included to adapt it to whatever original carb it is replacing.
The vehicle still has to be within/meet the emission calibration the vehicle was issued with.
It sounds to me like he needs to get a 2bbl intake and new dizzy.
I have the same troubles here in Texas as far as being able to buy JUST a vacuum advance module.
I'd like to see a picture of this 2 barrel intake you speak of. The only one I know of is the expensive Clifford with a 2 barrel plate on top.
You have emissions on vehicles this old? Sorry to hear that. Holley and Edelbrock made their coin on the fact that you don't need an extremely specific carb as a replacement. The carbs from the manufacturers are tuned specifically for whatever specs they were trying to achieve, be that horse power, efficiency or emissions. Remanufactured carbs often swap parts to the point that the jets don't even match and they still work OK.
You have emissions on vehicles this old? Sorry to hear that.
Yes, unfortunately 66' is the cut off for being emissions exempt. Anything 67'+ is required, and on top of that it is everytime you needs tags which is yearly as they dont give mutiple year tags on older vehicles. 👎
You have emissions on vehicles this old? Sorry to hear that.
Originally Posted by Boostingaz
Yes, unfortunately 66' is the cut off for being emissions exempt. Anything 67'+ is required, and on top of that it is everytime you needs tags which is yearly as they dont give mutiple year tags on older vehicles. 👎
I think I overstated the subject of emissions compliance to this period of engines. As in the CARB D0PF, it is not as calibrated as a replacement carb say for a late seventies/early eighties vehicle would be. In this instance, it would be more of a generic application.
Emission compliance began in CA in 1961. That set of regulations were then extended to most of the other 49 states in 1963. 1966 CA saw the intro of A.I.R. and IMCO. It went to the rest of the states in 1968. It really began getting more strict in 1973 (EGR) and 1976 (CATS) along with unleaded fuel.
In this particular instance (1967 240), IGN and CARB were controlled by LOAD-O-MATIC. A previous owner modified the system by updating it to 1968 levels for increased and more reliable performance.
In this particular instance (1967 240), IGN and CARB were controlled by LOAD-O-MATIC. A previous owner modified the system by updating it to 1968 levels for increased and more reliable performance.
I hope I made that a little more clear...
The funny/strange thing about the whole scenario is that the engine according to the tag is actually a 1971-240 (see post #11 & 12), but then they put in this earlier 68' distibutor and the DOPF replacement carb. What is the correct distributor for a 71' 240, is that what I should be looking for and be running instead?
The funny/strange thing about the whole scenario is that the engine according to the tag is actually a 1971-240 (see post #11 & 12), but then they put in this earlier 68' distibutor and the DOPF replacement carb. What is the correct distributor for a 71' 240, is that what I should be looking for and be running instead?
A$$-U-ME(ing) the service history, they most likely put a used engine in and threw-out the LOAD-O-MATIC feature (original carb/dist) with a regular (later) carb/dist.
The dist you have should work fine.
I'll have to go back and re-read the post as I have forgotten the original problem...
I just picked up 67' F100 with the 240ci and a 4 speed manual.
I am in the process of doing a tune up and some maintenance and notice that it appears the vacuum advance is broken. It will engage but then immediatly starts to recede, will not hold. Is that a sign of it being worn out or am I missing something?
You have two vacuum signals on the advance canister, the front port advances and the rear port retards the timing-
Do you have the PORTED VACUUM signal connected to the front port or the second port? It should be on the first port and the second port left unattached.
If you apply vacuum and the timing does not advance, it is a bad vacuum diaphragm (or vacuum signal). If it advances somewhat or skips, it may be a bad breaker plate.
Don't worry about model years now as the truck is beyond that.
If you need a vacuum canister, all you need are the I.D. Nos. off the distributor bowl. When you tell the guy 1967, he immediately thinks the way the engine was assembled, not modified.
You have two vacuum signals on the advance canister, the front port advances and the rear port retards the timing-
Do you have the PORTED VACUUM signal connected to the front port or the second port? It should be on the first port and the second port left unattached.
If you apply vacuum and the timing does not advance, it is a bad vacuum diaphragm (or vacuum signal). If it advances somewhat or skips, it may be a bad breaker plate.
Don't worry about model years now as the truck is beyond that.
If you need a vacuum canister, all you need are the I.D. Nos. off the distributor bowl. When you tell the guy 1967, he immediately thinks the way the engine was assembled, not modified.
The vacuum canister is the bad piece as far as I can tell, no amout of force will advance the timing.
The issue stared when I took the distibutor to the a few different local parts stores and the parts guys kept coming up with and telling me what was obviously the wring canister. The ones they kept suggesting all had a "male" ended linkage, whereas mine clearly is "female" persay.
Having a hard time finding the actual correct canister number.
The funny/strange thing about the whole scenario is that the engine according to the tag is actually a 1971-240 (see post #11 & 12), but then they put in this earlier 68' distibutor and the DOPF replacement carb. What is the correct distributor for a 71' 240, is that what I should be looking for and be running instead?
As long as the carb and the distributor are matched it will work with no issues.
Your Carb is a 1970 stick with a 1970 calibration distributor.
There was no difference between the 1970 and 71 240 base engine assembly.
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