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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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351 m throttle linkage

Hi, I have a 1974 f100 with a 351 m and a 4 speed. I was going to take the truck around the block when I noticed that the throttle linkage hits the intake manifold when I rev the engine. I'm worried that the gas is going to get stuck. Is there a kit or product that you would recommend to fix this? I don't know what the man before me did or if this is factory. I know on my older f100s they had a bar to the carb. Any advice would help
Thank you






 
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 06:58 AM
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Man, that's a disaster waiting to happen! The angle the cable makes to that bracket is completely wrong, and pretty much ensures it'll either seize or break there at some point. And that doesn't even speak to what you posted about - the linkage hitting the manifold.

I don't remember what the linkage on my '72 looked like, but I am almost sure it was pretty much the same as what I'm familiar with in the 80-86 trucks, meaning an outer sheath and an inner cable. So I suggest you get a new throttle cable meant for your truck, including the bracket that goes on the intake manifold, and replace what you have.

Now for the throttle linkage. If it hits the manifold at full throttle all that might do is keep you from getting to full throttle. It shouldn't cause the throttle to stick open unless it is hitting at an angle where it can wedge itself in. But if you want that last little bit of throttle or want to ensure it can't wedge itself open you'll probably need a spacer between the carb and intake. I'd recommend a phenolic one because it will insulate the carb from the heat of the engine and ensure the gas doesn't boil out on really hot days.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 07:26 AM
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Yea that's what I was thinking it must of had a sheath with a inner cable. I was trying to look at pics of people's engine to see what it was factory. It dose hit when I rev the engine unless I give it full throttle the the bar is back so it wont hit the manifold. I should have put when I let the clutch out the engine torques over and bumps it and the gives it about 1/2 throttle until I push in the clutch and engine gos back and it takes the stress off the throttle linkage.

As for a spacer it has one I don't know how much higher I can go.

I know that in 1974 they did not use the 351 m but I know they had them in dent sides. May be a factory cable from a later dent would work if the arm is the same on my 1974.

 
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 02:10 PM
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Unless your truck came with a 6 cylinder, your petal assembly is from a 79,maybe 78 and there is no sheath on the cable. Not sure why it is hitting the manifold back there but I will have to look at mine when I get home. Before 79, they had an adjustable rod to the carb but in order to use that you have to change the petal assembly itself.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 05:21 PM
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A 1" spacer should make linkage clear intake, may need to adjust cable slightly to keep it from wanting to hold open. I had a 79 with a swapped M into it and that squared it away.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 06:52 PM
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Mostly original 79 with 351M
Is your gas petal 5-6" off the floor? With the four barrel on it, the mounting stud on the carb is farther ahead of where the stock 2 barrel is and that factory cable is not adjustable so it pulls the arm closer to the manifold. Not sure what else it would be unless the motor mounts and perches are not the right ones. I have used this factory set up with a 460 swap and aftermarket carb and manifold without the issues you are experiencing.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ShakinBacon


Mostly original 79 with 351M
Is your gas petal 5-6" off the floor? With the four barrel on it, the mounting stud on the carb is farther ahead of where the stock 2 barrel is and that factory cable is not adjustable so it pulls the arm closer to the manifold. Not sure what else it would be unless the motor mounts and perches are not the right ones. I have used this factory set up with a 460 swap and aftermarket carb and manifold without the issues you are experiencing.
My thoughts exactly, I had a literal cable on mine with a jam screw. The bulb type catch will pull pedal higher and throw geometry off horribly. Only way to correct is with an adjustable cable or rod with lock nuts or jam screw to keep slippage from happening
 
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