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I am glad you 300 six guys are helping each other out. If we keep at it, I think we can eventually get all the 300's converted over. I am done with encouraging people to keep the original system, too much aggravation and complication and no sources for parts.
Cool great info that helps a lot thanks. Was thinking about removing egr and get my buddy at work who is in the tool shop to make me a spacer plate
For the EGR the machined plate will work but if you look over my EFI EXH swap you will see what I did to block it off but left the valve in place so it looks like it would work. I could even hook up vacuum if I wanted to but will not.
I am glad you 300 six guys are helping each other out. If we keep at it, I think we can eventually get all the 300's converted over. I am done with encouraging people to keep the original system, too much aggravation and complication and no sources for parts.
The big issue is the CA state that you still have to have that stuff on and working that hurts.
Dave ----
15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right. Hahahha. I don't actually believe that, I'd much rather 36-year-old personally, but that's how I was taught the firing order. Hahahha.
Ignore all the oil, my valve cover gasket is leaking down into the number three spark plug well which has some blow by so I get this nice mist of oil on everything.
15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right. Hahahha. I don't actually believe that, I'd much rather 36-year-old personally, but that's how I was taught the firing order.
Ignore all the oil, my valve cover gasket is leaking down into the number three spark plug well which has some blow by so I get this nice mist of oil on everything.
Thanks Dr j that's what I was thinking but wanted to make sure I was right hopefully get to put new dizzy in Wednesday and new battery support and fire it up
Thanks Dr j that's what I was thinking but wanted to make sure I was right hopefully get to put new dizzy in Wednesday and new battery support and fire it up
What is your plan to pull the dist? I recommend you carefully observe where the old rotor is pointing, specfically which sparkplug wire it's pointing to. Make a note of that, and then pull it and put the new one end without moving the engine and make sure the new rotor is pointing to the same wire.
You will notice as you pull the old one out, the rotor will want to spin a little bit. You need to also make note of that, put the new dist in with the rotor offset just a little so, it spins to the right place as you insert it.
What is your plan to pull the dist? I recommend you carefully observe where the old rotor is pointing, specfically which sparkplug wire it's pointing to. Make a note of that, and then pull it and put the new one end without moving the engine and make sure the new rotor is pointing to the same wire.
You will notice as you pull the old one out, the rotor will want to spin a little bit. You need to also make note of that, put the new dist in with the rotor offset just a little so, it spins to the right place as you insert it.
this is exactly the way I did it. I took the cap off and found the spot in the engine bay where the rotor was pointing and marked it with a piece of tape. When I put the new one in I lined t up so it was pointing in the same direction. When I seated it all the way dow into the oil pump it immediately rotated so it wasnt pointing right anymore. I had to try it a couple times before I players got it right.
That's pretty much the way I was planning on after setting the number 1 cylinder on tdc
You are just going to turn the engine by hand till the old rotor is pointing to the #1 wire? You can do that but there is really no point as long as you put the new one in to the same wire that the old one was pointing to.
Now if you are lost to where the engine is really at, then yes you need to find TDC #1 so you can start over and know where the engine is.
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