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The dash pad covers are an entirely different animal. These are not complete dash pads; they are covers that fit over your existing dash. They are glued on, and the two problems I have with these are that the speaker shape is totally incorrect, and you will have to actually cut the cover off if you ever need to remove your dash pad, effectively ruining it. <snip>
I have a dash pad cover on my '81; It was on my other truck when I bought it (and the pad under it was perfect), so I transferred it to the '81 to cover up the badly cracked original. Mine was not glued onto the '85, and it's not glued to the '81. I have windows down including a slider in the back, and have no problems with it lifting up with the airflow or any other time.
I do get your point that it isn't perfection in the restored sense, but for a driver they are a great solution. I think this is the one I have:
What is the paint code for Harbor Blue? Is that the sort of dark blue like in my photo? Is my '82s interior color Harbor Blue?
I couldn't find the color chart on the SEM website - yet. Need to figure out what category to look in.
Also, SEM has a clear UV protectant. Would that be desirable on a dash pad?
As for caps vs pads, Dad's truck will get a new pad, but Big Blue will probably use a cap. The 1982 Explorer I bought had a cap on it and I didn't know it until the very first GTG when Paul/Rogue Wulf spotted it. And even then, if the pad and cap were painted the same SEM color it would be hard to spot.
Geez Louise! I just knew that someone was going to come up with this wheeze...when I said no truck was a unit body.
People call these trucks Uni's, but they are not a unit body! Ford referred to them as integral bodies.
The only difference between 1961/63 Uni's and other pickups is: Uni's have their Styleside bed welded to the cab.
Otherwise, they are body on frame construction as is every other F100/350 pickup.
Mid-year 1963: Ford cancelled the Uni's. When cargo was in the bed and Uni's rounded corners, the frame flexed...cargo shifted, the doors could pop open!
Some people fell out of the cabs, some were then run over by traffic. Not pleasant! Lap seat belts were optional, so most 1961/66 trucks didn't have them.
Coupla years ago, FTE split the 1961/63 Uni's from the 1961/66 forum. Most members of the 1961/66 forum said this was a dumb idea, and we still think so.
fabmandeluxe was the moderator, said he thought it was a good idea.
Well, 'ol fabman is now holding court on another truck site and one of the first things I asked him was, did he really think this was a good idea?
I have a dash pad cover on my '81; It was on my other truck when I bought it (and the pad under it was perfect), so I transferred it to the '81 to cover up the badly cracked original. Mine was not glued onto the '85, and it's not glued to the '81. I have windows down including a slider in the back, and have no problems with it lifting up with the airflow or any other time.
All of the ones I have seen are glued on. In fact, a tube of silicone adhesive is supplied with the dash pad cap for installation:
It appears that Dashes Direct have improved the dash pad vinyl to more closely resemble the original texture of the stock dash pad than what they were using a few years ago.
Did you notice if the Dashes Direct dash pad was "floppier" than the original Ford dash pad? Were there any other differences?
If it's not glued on, how does the dash pad cap stay on the dash pad?
They are molded to the exact shape of the dash pad and sit on there fine. I've had absolutely no issues with mine sliding, shifting, or otherwise moving off the dash pad. This one was on my '85 when I got it and with no AC in Florida, windows down for "360" AC is a must. Ditto the '81. Gawd knows how long it was on the '85 before I bought it, but don't see why you would want to glue it down if it's the same as I've got.
The link you provide shows them for ~$100 more than the LMC version that I linked. Dunno why the price difference, but maybe the higher price makes em fancier in some sort of way and includes more shifty behavior?
Not a real good pic because the sun was straight overhead and shining in the windshield, but should show that it sits on there fine:
Actually, I like the idea of not gluing it a bunch! The one on Rusty developed divots where the glue was after sitting in the OK sun for a few years. Shouldn't do that without the glue.
It appears that Dashes Direct have improved the dash pad vinyl to more closely resemble the original texture of the stock dash pad than what they were using a few years ago.
Did you notice if the Dashes Direct dash pad was "floppier" than the original Ford dash pad? Were there any other differences?
It was not as stiff as my original but the original was so hard it was literally crumbling to dust. The new pad was a pain to get the clips on and the clip position is important to keep from getting that "sagging" look. The clips have to be seated at the right depth. The new pad did have a hard shell support throughout and was also reinforced with metal in the key areas. The grain was identical to the original as well. I believe it was money well spent.
It was not as stiff as my original but the original was so hard it was literally crumbling to dust. The new pad was a pain to get the clips on and the clip position is important to keep from getting that "sagging" look. The clips have to be seated at the right depth. The new pad did have a hard shell support throughout and was also reinforced with metal in the key areas. The grain was identical to the original as well. I believe it was money well spent.
Then do you need to remove parts (clips) from the old dash and transfer to the new dash - or does the new dash come with all the parts?
I'm not sure what you mean by "clips have to be seated at the right depth". How is the right depth determined?
Maybe I just need to buy my dash pad then I'll see what your talking about.
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