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I'm a new member and this is my first post so take it easy. I just bought a 1982 f150 with a 351w in it and need some help figuring out what my options are with my budget. I've spent 2 weeks searching every forum but it seems like each is really case specific and now it's all just running together. I'm wanting to keep the budget at $3000. The motor is carbed and it's a non-roller block, not far from stock. I haven't taken it apart yet but the compression checks out.
Bottom end - From what I understand the parts are all able to handle any power I can afford to throw at it (no plans to ever use spray) so should I keep it stock if I pull the heads and it all looks good? New pistons and rings?
Intake - Looking at a Weiand Stealth or Edelbrock Performer. Thoughts?
Carb - ideas on a good carb? I know I need about 650cfm
Heads - I've heard the stock heads are only good as boat anchors so I'd like to do something about that if it's possible. I know about gt40s as a good budget option but I've also been told that after rebuilding them you're in them $1000 so you might as well buy aluminum heads at that point. Also what about heads I'm seeing on eBay? I understand you get what you paid for but they seem decent for the price to me. Any thoughts???SBF FORD 302 351W HIGH PERFORMANCE ASSEMBLED ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEADS 200CC 62CC | eBay
Cam - People are telling me to stay away from a flat tappet because of no zinc in modern oil. Shouldn't a zinc additive or any oil with 2000ppm zinc keep it happy? Converting to a roller looks like it's cost $1000 buy itself. I can't imagine the extra hp being worth that or is a flat tappet really just a time bomb that I should replace now while I can?
This is a low compression smog era motor and part of the reason for that is the dished pistons so upgrade those if possible. Aftermarket heads are a smart option but don't buy those cheap chinese things off ebay.. they will need valves and machine work to seal up so they're no bargain. Some Dart iron eagles would be a good budget head, buy the 180cc version.yeah flat tappet cams can be a handful now, but with quality lifters, a good breakin and a bit of luck you should be fine.
If you decide to convert to a roller cam, you would be better off just getting a late model roller cam 351. If you got a low mileage one, you could just use the short block as is, saving a bunch of money.
If you decide to convert to a roller cam, you would be better off just getting a late model roller cam 351. If you got a low mileage one, you could just use the short block as is, saving a bunch of money.
That's the plan if it didn't look good when I popped the heads.
With regards to heads, if you haven't already, check with Trick flow as they use to have the one of the best flowing heads
Please don't think for one minute, that any of the mail-order crap today is really worth the $ in comparison to buying a set of al heads and having them machined & built yourself. These vid’s really says it all IMHO........
Please don't think for one minute, that any of the mail-order crap today is really worth the $ in comparison to buying a set of al heads and having them machined & built yourself.
I bought fully assembled Dart heads for my 351 build back some years ago. The shop I bought them from was a local engine builder and distributor for Dart products and they disassemble and check out everything they get in on principle. These heads didn't need any work, all the valves sealed up nicely and the machine work was clean and true. That is all one expects with a new product but the fact that an experienced builder knows he has to check this stuff says it all I think.