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does any one remember the ford part number for the plate between the motor and the flywheel for 221/260/289 5 bolt bellhousing stick Fairlane/Meteor/Falcon/Comet/Mustang?
It's a large sheet of steel cut out into a particular shape and holes in it. If it's not being made by any sheet metal stamper, or not available on Ebay, it's not impossible to make one.
It has to be made very carefully however, since it helps locate the starter pinion's engagement with the ring gear.
It's one of those pieces that people usually threw out when they saved an engine or a transmission, unfortunately, so there is a relative shortage of them.
Wouldn't the starter mount bolt holes on the bell housing put the starter at only one place? I would use the bell housing to make a template to cut the plate, since that's what the plate is for, covering the bell housing. I've seen some applications where the depth of the stater set using shims.
NumberDummy thank you for taking the time to look it up your help is greatly appreciated. I found a new old stock one on ebay with part number C2OZ-7007-C and ordered it. jfb.
I think the bolts hold the starter within about a sixteenth inch of its final location, while the plate locates it precisely. Kind of like the bellhousing bolts and dowels.
But I haven't investigated this carefully, so I can't say it with authority.
I had a 260-4V on my Fairlane some years ago. I installed a stock iron intake with a big block Autolite 4V carb, but switched to a 370cfm (sic) Holley 4 barrel because I wanted better low rpm power.
I think the bolts hold the starter within about a sixteenth inch of its final location, while the plate locates it precisely. Kind of like the bellhousing bolts and dowels.
But I haven't investigated this carefully, so I can't say it with authority.
It's not the bolts holes that are the important feature here, but the large round hole the starter nose fits into, this indexes the starter teeth to the proper distance from the ring gear teeth to insure one does eat up the other over time. The two short pins set into the rear of the block also serve to orient that big hole to where it needs to be. You'll notice those pins to the plate are a tight fit, unlike the bolt holes