Well it looks like specific enough ones for different threads to me!
But no problem answering multiples either.
You've already got some good answers, but I'll add some more.

I'm only vague on this, but I seem to remember a good average temp range is 160 to 180, and you don't want it going over 250° or so.
But wait for confirmation on that. I'm just spoutin' off.
Looking at your link, that chart seems to confirm what I'm gettin' at.

Never measured, but if you can't touch your hub it's too hot.
For example, I've run down I-5 here in CA at 75 mph in 85° heat and when pulling off the road and stopping, the hubs were barely warm in the front. A little warmer in the rear, but not so much I could not lay my hand comfortably on them.
This to me is the perfect scenario, but not the only acceptable one. Here the cooling air flowing over them was more than the heat generated.

Brakes have a huge effect on wheel bearing heat however (as was mentioned). So around town on a hot day when you're on and off the brakes a lot, the hub might be extremely warm. Still not enough to make you pull your hand away, but almost.

This is on a 4wd in my case. The 2wd might be similar, but with different parameters. I've felt some pretty hot hubs that were not failing, but it's not the best scenario to have long-term.

Is yours 2-wheel drive or 4? That usually makes a difference in your oil pan choices, but also makes a difference in how wheel bearings are adjusted in the front.
Having an F250 I'm assuming you have a full-floating rear end? Hah! That's another one of those things that "you had to be there" to know maybe. Or have you already run across that term?

If your rear axle has large, long hubs sticking out the center of the wheels with several bolts in a circle, that's an indicator of a full-floating rear end. If the ends of the axles are flat and do not stick out proud of the wheel center, it's a semi-floating rear end.
If you don't already know that, we can give a more full description of what that means.

How long have you had the truck? Long time or new owner?

Paul

 

Thanks man that's good information!

 

I pick the truck up about 4 months ago been putting some work into it
got a Dana 60 full floating rear I'm going to be converting it over from drum to disc after I get it rebuilt
Oh and it's also a two-wheel drive

 

alright I got another thinker for you guys I seen some Modern e250 and E350 that have twin I-beam setups with ball joints instead of King Pins does anybody know any of the e-type that have a I beam setup that is close enough that it will bolt up on too my 73 F250 with only minor modifications IE changing out a couple brackets. But as much as I like the Kingpin, I'd like to get over to a ball joint style twin I-beam setup because if the Kingpin ****s the bed on the side of the road I am not going to be able to fix that without extreme problems whereas if a ball joint goes bad on the side of the road I can replace that and keep moving

 

I've never seen a kingpin go to hell without giving plenty of warning. They don't just fail. The bushings and bearing wear out and that you will notice as sloppy steering. If a kingpin starts to seize, well you should have greased it more, you will notice increased effort to turn the wheel. Ball joints can do both of those as well. Think on this though, you really have to wear out a kingpin for the spindle to come off, break one ball joint and you are dead in the water.

 

Well I totally understand and agree that kingpins are stronger and better all-around just because of their strength and reliability my whole thought process for wanting to switch over is while it would be some kind of calamity that I would definitely notice before the Kingpin falls off I would not be able to replace the Kingpin on the side of the road whereas with the ball joints I definitely would be able to. It's not anything to do with reliability it's more for the ease of repair in the middle of nowhere. with technology coming along with ball joints some of them can actually help carry weight and increase your carrying capacity they're more like little wheel bearings than ball joints nowadays I just wanted some more info on what people think kingpins vs. Ball joints and has anybody changed there's over and at the end of the day if I don't get enough info to make me feel warm and fuzzy about changing over to ball joints he'll be keeping my kingpins

 

King pins can last decades if properly greased before needing replaced . Ball joints these days are good only for about 3 to 5yrs if your lucky .

 

I live in Georgia it gets HOT!! here
I've been looking at your debates you have on oils here
So far I'm leaning toward rotella 15-40
what oil are you guys using in the lower states that stay at cooking temperature????

 

I've always ran Rotella 15w40 in mine. It has the 460 in it. It runs around 60-70 psi oil pressure until it warms up really well. Then it drops to around 30-40 psi at idle.
I had a local shop that still does kingpins rebuild my entire front end. I got new springs, bushings, drag links, center links, etc., alignment and shocks on front and rear. I specified Moog parts. It was about 1200.00 total. I have zero tire wear in 40K miles or so. It also drives straight with no pulling or shake. I grease them regularly with the front end jacked up and then again when it's down. I'm kind of OCD when it comes to vehicle maintenance. I went with the Ford mechanics manual specs on setting the wheel bearings. It gave a torque range on the hub nut to set the bearings then back off some. My biggest issue with the truck was rear brakes. Make sure to change the fluid out to prevent corrosion. I just replaced my rear wheel cylinders due to small leaks because the insides had rusted.

 

This one's for all you guys out there running 390s
What intake manifold should I get again this is a heavy torque build I've heard that a single plane is better for our blocks then a dual-plane what's your opinions and experiences

 

You've got some good answers so far, so I can't add much. I'm at a slightly lower latitude than you and it gets hot here in the summer also. As far as temperature goes, mine seems to do better when as cool as possible. That goes for transmission, wheel bearings, engine, brakes, everything. I don't know if it's Global Warming or not, but we almost never get any freezing weather in the winter any more. Hence, heat is the enemy. I probably wouldn't use engine oil with any viscosity lower than the 15W-40 just in case the viscosity improver additives fail or get left out. I'd probably favor 20W-40 or 20W-50. I-10 can get quite warm in the summer. And if the engine still has flat tappets, I'd also want some ZDDP additive to try to help preserve the lobes on the cam. The tendency seems to be to reduce the concentration for the newer vehicles. I wish the engine oil manufacturers would reveal the concentration on the packaging so the consumers could make a better decision.

As far as the suspension goes, the ball joints are easier to change, but the king pins will give more warning before you get stranded. Life seems to often be a trade off. I've seen more disabled vehicles due to ball joint failures than king pin failures. If you're conscientious on maintenance, and don't do wild things while driving, probably neither will fail. A little grease will often keep things going.

Somehow I doubt that the Chevy & Ford rocker gaskets will interchange. They have different part numbers.

Thanks for raising the questions. Reading all the answers has been interesting.

 

Hey man thank you for your answers the more you guys input the better of a decision I can make!

Yeah through my research and looking at what other people have been running I've decided to go with the 15/40 Rotel. Has all the vitamins and minerals the truck needs

Yeah the valve covers I didn't know I just found them tucked away in the corner of the shop from some old mechanic time's going by

And I'm super OCD on the maintenance on all my vehicles so I decided to stay with the kingpins even though I probably wouldn't be able to fix them on the side of the road on a long road trip I probably wouldn't have any problems with them during the road trip without severe warning

 

What provides better breaking calipers mounted on the forward side of the rotor or calipers mounted on the rearward side of the rotor?

This question is for rear axle braking

 

So I'm about to that spot where I'm going to take the rear out to be rebuild
its a

Dana 60 full floater, 3.73
I have 31 inch tires on the rear

was wondering when I'm having it rebuilt would it behoove me any to have it stepped up to a larger pinion and/or ring gear

questions
how would that affect my mpg
how would that affect my towing ability on hills
how would that affect my top end

I don't plan on going any faster that 65-70 in the beast with or without a load
and I don't plan on towing anything heavier than 5000 lbs.

 

Only thing I can add too is your oil pan question. I have an FE390 on a '76 F250. If your truck is 4x4 you will need the big rear sump pan and they are hard to find used and pricey aftermarket. If your running 4x2 you should be able to run the smaller front sump and they are much more available. Now, if your block was setup for a rear sump and your switching to a front or vise versa, you will have to change oil pickups and finding the big rear pan pickup with tube is a bear also......