I was working on the electrical under my other thread but I got that all pretty much worked out thanks to everyone's help here. The horn is the last issue with the electrical (I hope). I got the steering wheel off with my Harbor Freight wheel puller. It came off easily. The horn circuit is good, I grounded the wire to a ground and the horn works. I found two horn brush contacts with springs. One was on the wheel and one was underneath going to the horn wire terminal. The small soldered wire was missing from the brush that was underneath at the terminal so that may be the problem. I'm not sure that the back of the steering wheel is contacting the horn contact brush because there seems to be a pretty good sized gap (see pictures). I reinstalled the wheel and tightened it down really good and the gap is still there. Also there is a steel collar (bearing) that goes over the steering shaft that appears to be split? Not sure if it is split or if it is supposed to be like that so that it pulls tight when the wheel is installed.
I hope I didn't mess things up worse than they were. When I took off the wheel I wanted to explore to see if the shift collar was an easy replacement as mine is broken where the shifter handle goes into the collar. It doesn't seem to be like it was before. I couldn't get the shift handle to pull towards me to put it in reverse/1st gear. I finally got it back together but I still can't move the handle to 3rd gear. Maybe when I move the truck it will go into gear?

 

Looks like you may have a couple of issues going on there. First, the contact button in your pic is definitely an issue. In my case, I think I had to pick up a replacement from MAC's. The second issue I'm potentially seeing is with the second contact button that sits directly under your horn button or horn ring. Specifically, it may not be making contact and what a lot of people do, including me, is run a jumper through the steering wheel from the metallic horn button backing plate to the metal ring that rides on your horn contact button on the back side of the steering wheel. I also agree that your steering wheel appears to have a large gap between the wheel and the steering column collar. I believe the torque for the steering wheel nut is between 35 and 55 foot pounds. In a pinch, you can use some small washers underneath the mounting screws on the metal ring on the backside of your steering wheel in order to space that ring down to make better contact.

You can get a replacement for that upper bearing. If you want to do it right, Carolina Classics will rebuild that column for you. The three speed shift tubes are no longer manufactured.

You didn't ask, but you can also get a replacement bushing for your shift lever there on the column where you have pictured your hose clamp. You can get that from Dennis Carpenter, among other places.

 

I'll check out those parts. I wasn't aware that there was a bearing for the shift handle. I assumed that the clamp was for a crack in the shift collar. I'll have to check that out further. Thanks for the help

 

That brush looks pretty worn down where it contacts the wheel. It should also have a brass piece at the base, and a copper wire running up the inside if the spring connecting the top to the base. Maybe it's too short to make contact, or if it is making contact maybe it's not carrying enough current to do the trick.
I put a copper BB under mine to make it work. I should replace it but they seem to expensive for what it is and none of the local parts places have them. One of these days I'll get a new one... But it works for now

 

The gap at the wheel to column looks fat. Check your rag joint too

 

My truck has a maybe horn too. Maybe it'll work maybe not. But if I jamb it down pushing the wheel to the column, it works. ....rag joint!

 

On the outside of the steering wheel, visible when the horn ring or horn button is removed, is a hole that the horn brush and insulator fit into.

The coil spring that is made as part of the brush breaks, the brushes wire snaps off, the insulator cracks.

C2OZ-13A821-A .. Horn Brush & Insulator Kit / Obsolete/Reproduced ~ 100+ available NOS

MCDONALD OBSOLETE PARTS in Rockport IN has 7 = 812-359-4965.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 11 = 607-722-5371.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 74 = 800-543-4959.

Applications: Misc 1960/64 Ford/Merc Passenger Cars; 1965 Mustang w/a generator // 1961/66 F100/250 2WD; 1966 F100 4WD; 1967/70 F100/250; 1969/70 F350.

Note: Originally (1960/61), Ford sold the brush & insulator separately, but in 1962, replaced both with this kit.

Most of the repro parts sellers only sell the brush, so if the insulator is required, you have to buy a NOS kit.
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C2DZ-13A809-A .. Horn Button/Horn Ring Nylon Retainer / Reproduced

This retainer has three tabs, when one of the tabs breaks off (typical), the horn/button/ring will not fit on the steering wheel properly, will fit catty-wampus.
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C0DZ-13A813-A .. Horn Ring Rubber Pressure Pad / Reproduced

Located on the inside of the horn ring. When it flattens out, the horn will no longer blow.

Note: The coil spring used with the horn ring (C0DZ-13A807-B) is different than used with the horn button (C0DF-13A807-B).
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C3DZ-3517-A .. Steering Column Bearing / Available from Ford.

1961/73 F100/250 2WD upper & lower / Misc 1960/66 FoMoCo Passenger Cars upper & lower.
There are THREE different types of this rubber insulator, one type (O1A-7246-B) is a different length (2.04" long) then the other two (1.00" long).

Of these two, both are 3/4" diameter, but the hole that the shift lever retaining pin passes thru, is in a different place in B8S-7246-A .. than it is in C2OZ-7246-A

 

Wipers don't work and the horn won't blow, but there ain't nothing wrong with the radio.

 

How do I know which rubber insulator is correct? I can pull out the old one but the way I am finding things it could be the wrong one installed by a previous owner years ago. I am going to order the new shift collar but that is also confusing. There are two listed with the same part number on at least one site but they are both different item numbers.

 

D5TZ-7228-B (replaced C0DZ-7228-B & D3TZ-7228-B) .. 3 M/T Shift Collar / Obsolete ~ 83+ available NOS

Applications: 1960/65 Falcon/Comet; 1961/66 F100/250 2WD; 1966 F100 4WD; 1966/77 Bronco; 1967/77 F100/250 2WD/4WD

 

This is a manual trans shift collar. Do the manual trans shift collars have the same issue with different size insulators or is this only limited to the A/T collars?

 

Post #7: I listed the insulators for the 3 speed M/T

Read post #10 again, I edited out the A/T shift collar, edited in the 3 M/T shift collar.

Does the shift lever bind up between 1st and 2nd gear?

Is the shift lever "spring" loaded? If it's not, it's supposed to be.

 

Ok I see that in your post. Thank you. I'll pull out the insulator tomorrow night and measure it. I see that there are several shift collars out there. The prices are all over the map. Should I definitely go with a genuine Ford NOS for this part? I'm thinking that maybe this would be a good place not to cut corners. The shifter doesn't have any problem between first and second. I can't seem to get it into third though. It may be that the truck is just sitting still and if I move it a little the trans will go into third gear.

 

1960/65 Falcon/Comet; 1961/66 F100/250 2WD; 1966 F100 4WD; 1966/77 Bronco; 1967/77 F100/250 2WD/4WD:

There is ONE 3 M/T shift collar, but Ford replaced the part number three times, so one obsolete parts vendor/repro parts source may list a different part number than another source.

D5TZ-7228-B = Last MSRP: $99.48; Dealer net cost: $59.69.

 

Is the shift lever "spring" loaded? If it's not, it's supposed to be

Not sure about the spring. I think it springs back but I'll have to check that part also. This thing is turning into a real nightmare.