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My thoughts are that the 95 amp alternator is barely capable of keeping up with a stock electrical system. This is especially true when AC, lights, wipers, radio, etc are on at the same time.
One thing a lot of folks neglect is the cables themselves and ground connections, including the alternator itself to the block through the brackets. Any corrosion, often invisible is more than enough to cripple any alternator. It won't be noticeable at idle but under load it will choke. Charging systems must have clean and tight electrical connections throughout or the battery will never charge to 100% and alternator won't provide anywhere near the current it's rated for. Before swapping out OEM alternators check the voltage drop through grounds and positive cables. Be sure you're getting what you paid for.
What's the highest amp alternator that's a direct fit for our trucks, be it diesel or gas?
I don't mind running some thicker gauge wire to accommodate the increased juice, so that's not a big issue.
Mine had recently been replaced before I bought the truck, so I should be good for a while, but it looks like a parts-store rebuild or new unit, and we all know those tend to croak on diesels. Just posturing for the future
I am wanting to wire in the electric Pusher fan to blow on the A/C condenser at HWY speeds the A/C works great but at stop or stop and go traffic not so we'll just trying get some more air blowing across the condenser during these times.
It would be great if I could figure out so it only kicks on at speeds lower than 30 MPH driving but baby steps for now.
I don't think the electric fan needs to be running at HWY speeds.
I buy 12 ounce cans of new R12 on E-Bay. If I can avoid it I do not like using R12 variants. I've done it, it worked but not my favorite way to go.
Once the initial doom and gloom of R12 production ceasing the prices have come back down to earth that make sourcing small quantities online cost effective IMHO.